Hey /diy/, first time doing plumbing here. Tail pipe got torn from the sink and when I went to remove the s-trap the slip nut also broke. Any advice for attaching a new pipe to this part? I'd have to cut the pipe if I was going to pull it out because it goes down so far inside of the other pipe. Alternatively I was wondering whether it would be wise to use some sort of hose clamp coupler here instead of removing it. Any advice is appreciated.
just remove the other end and replace the whole thing
>>1019921
Sounds good, just wanted a second opinion. Thanks!
>>1019922
the inside is probably rusted to fuck anyway. as a rule whenever i touch steel plumbing i just start replacing shit. trying to keep the old stuff often just leads to headaches, more trips for parts and just a much longer/harder job in general.
>>1019927
Sounds good, everything else up to this point was pretty rusted and falling apart so that's probably for the best. Just need to buy a pipe cutter to get it out of there.
>>1019935
Best to replace with PVC if you can find the right parts
I agree. Cheap and easy. Just remember not to overtorque.
>>1019935
>pipe cutter
First, try unscrewing the fitting between the steel and copper. Replace everything to that point with PVC. Copper is good, if you can save it. If not, then cut.
>>1019975
Yeah I tried to unscrew it and pull it out, unfortunately the steel pipe is so long the kitchen sink gets in the way and I can't pull it out. Think i just have to unscrew it and cut it off so I can pull more out.
>>1019967
Yeah thanks for the reminder, have to keep in mind I'm working with plastic.
>>1019921
This, everything from where the drain starts to where it enters the wall, should cost you around $20 and leave you problem free for the foreseeable future. It'll also make cleaning out the trap a breeze.
>>1019935
>Just need to buy a pipe cutter to get it out of there.
You don't need a pipe cutter, you need a dremel-style too with a cutoff wheel.
Pic related: what you want to do is split the retaining nut on the low end of the silver "J" pipe. (#1 red arrow)
Try to unscrew it first, but don't push it real hard.
If that retaining nut is stuck pretty hard, then get a dremel-style tool and cut a slot straight in, at one of the nut's "points", MOST of the way through but not all. You do not want to harm the copper fitting underneath (the green #2 part).
Just cutting the nut may relieve tension enough to unscrew it, but if not, stick a flat screwdriver in there and twist it to stretch the slot out a bit.
If you mess the end of that copper pipe up, it is a much larger hassle to fix.
And if you use plastic pipes to replace the metal, you won't have this issue again because plastic won't rust.
>>1020107
You don't need to use a dremel. Not saying it won't work and it won't be easy and make quick work of it. I use 2 pipe wrenches, one setting on the pipe going into floor/wall ready to tighten it, one on the nut ready to loosen it. I don't actually use the first wrench to tighten, I just put enough force on it to equal what I'm doing with the second wrench. I use a pipe wrench on the nut because the uneven surface of the jaws puts most of the force on 2 small spots on the nut, and that almost always snaps it in half. Pick out the pieces and it comes apart. If it actually loosens that works too, it doesn't matter if the nut is marred up because it's being replaced, but 9/10 times it just snaps the nut and my problems are solved.
>>1020107
>>1020144
I explained poorly earlier, I wasn't having trouble loosening the retaining lock. When I pulled the steel pipe out of the copper pipe it was so long it would hit the bottom of the sink, pic related.
Earlier today I ended up loosening the nut, pulling the pipe out, cutting the steel pipe and pulling the rest of it out. Replaced all of it with pvc and a coupler from the pvc to the copper pipe. Thanks for the advice nonetheless, its still good advice if there is a next time.
