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CRT monitor plastic filling
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You are currently reading a thread in /diy/ - Do It yourself

Thread replies: 16
Thread images: 2
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So I ended up doing the acetone/spare plastic Putty mixture because I figure it'd literally become one with the plastic around it. Applied it in thin, spacled coats, drying for a couple of days, sanding down in between, and applying more as necessary.
My problem now is that, I guess the putty had some air in it, so now the resulting surface is very porous and full of tiny pin holes.
I want to prime and paint this thing, but those holes need taken care of first.
How do I best go about filling in these holes and making a 100% smooth surface?
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Another pic for reference. After washing.
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better yet, why would you bother spackling a turd? You probably need to vacuum cure it anyway with acetone/putty
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>>1018792
Elaborate. On the vacuum thing, not the turd thing. I've already put several layers of this putty over the course of a week. Are you saying normal air drying isn't going to cure it???
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>>1018781
Apply another layer of your putty to fill the holes, sand again. If the finish is still spotty, buy a tube of red putty for automotive work. Sand down with progressively finer papers until it's like glass, paint, then ask yourself where your life has gone and why you just spent hours of your life doing bodywork on a CRT monitor.
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>>1018870
> red putty for automotive work
Isn't that fiberglass-based? I thought that fiberglass is a different material altogether from plastic and will thusly chip and break off over time.
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>>1018781
Try this, OP: if you have any more of that putty left, water out down with more acetone until it's about the consistency of acrylic paint. Then take a brush and paint over the area like you would acrylic paint. Hopefully, it shouldn't melt what you have done around it so far. That's my best idea.
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>>1018781
You could try epoxy resin mixed with q-cells or microballoons. If there are any boat builders in your area you could probably get a handful of q-cell or microballoons from them for a couple of dollars/maybe free.
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>2016
>not just heating up the plastic and putting it under a hydraulic press.
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>>1019414
I tried this, and I think the acetone is reacting with the existing plastic and causing more bubbles, so it's not going to get any better.

>>1019428
What is an example of an epoxy resin that would be good for this sort of thing brand-wise? I know nothing about epoxy resins and what's good and what to avoid. Is there something I could buy on Amazon relatively easily?
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>>1019428
I know it doesn't have q-cells and microballoons in it, but are you referring to something like this?

Are all epoxies the same, and I'm just thinking too much into it, or are they all not created equal?
Example, I have a syringe of PlasticWeld used to glue two plastic pieces together. Is that essentially what I could use, or do some epoxies not "bond"? Or do they all "bond"?
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>>1019486
Or don't post the link, doofus.

https://amzn.com/B00BR2KNP2
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>>1019486
>>1019516
Any feedback on this? I'm kinda running low on time, because I want to get this shit patched, sanded, and primed for painting, which is going to take an ass-load of time.
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Updating again.
Would "model filler" work?
Looking at: https://amzn.com/B000JCE6BI and the accompanying video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwR5JXK1GJU I'm wondering if that could be a good bet too. The area I need to fill isn't that large, and it looks like there's an option to thin it with another chemical applied.
Only thing is the video mentions something about shrinkage and needing a second application.
Any thoughts?
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Anybody? Model filler? Shrinkage? Good?
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>>1018781
Advanced auto, heavy body primer. Sand down. The end.

p.s.
Its even the right color.
Thread replies: 16
Thread images: 2

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