I tried mig welding. Anyone fancy giving me tips.
>>1016550
>Anyone fancy giving me tips.
Get a heavy duty grinder and lots of disks...
![3d7f4709dd40e245a3de1a1df6ab021a[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/CV978gT.jpg "3d7f4709dd40e245a3de1a1df6ab021a[1].jpg")
>>1016562
>>1016550
How about using argon gas? Does welds look shitty OP. However, with enough practice and time (and proper tools) you will be doing good beads.
>pic very related
>>1016550
Practice, use decent tools/materials.
And don't listen to people who don't shut up about TIG. MIGs have their uses as well.
>>1016587
that pic makes me moist
Turn up your heat and let it make a puddle before you move. Once you do don't step to fast or of the puddle. Make it come with you
>>1016550
Your welds look like cat shit. Count breaths and focus on shape.
>>1016550
Lots of people giving general advice but
>>1016619
I would agree with in particular. Notice how your deposits are broken up instead of being a continuous bead. In order to produce a single continuous bead you need to first produce a molten weld pool/puddle then "move" that puddle along which is achieved by directing the wire at the edge of the puddle in the direction you wish to move. If you move beyond your puddle then the weld is broken and you end up with the broken up crap you got there. Another thing to notice is when the weld isn't broken up, it is quite high (high crown) and looks like it is sitting on top of the plate rather than being really melted and fused in. This is a sign of a weld being too "cold" and is fixed by: moving slower so that more heat builds up, turning down the wire feed so that heat is less consumed by the wire and what you probably need to do here which is turn up the voltage so more electrical power in input.
>>1016662
I'd also recommend you look up the settings chart for your welder which is typically on the underside of the lid of the wire spool compartment then turn the voltage up a bit from that since you are doing stringers on plate which needs more heat than normal welds to produce good beads. Also look up some youtube videos particularly so you know what proper technique looks like and troubleshooting for common mistakes. WeldingTipsAndTricks as well as ChuckE2009 have good videos.
Overall though for the welds you've shown, turn up the voltage and go slower; be sure to follow the puddle.
Thanks guys. I'll give it another go later. I did use the cheat sheet for settings but I found more heat worked better. (The top welds were done last). I shall persevere and keep trying though. As far as prep work, I'm using white spirits to remove the grease and wire brush and a cloth to clean the area, are there any tricks to making sure it's as clean as possible?
>>1016550
>sometimes pushing the bead is best
>sometimes puling the bead is best
welding is 50% science, 50% art
>>1016550
read books, watch videos, practice, practice practice
play with the setings on welder to get optimal setings
the welds see burnt did you move the gun? you need to lear how to move same properly for a long period of time
Learn to weld, because those are absolute horseshit and they're on raw material.
>>1016567
You dad is an idiot. Every good welder started out as a good grinder.
>>1016550
Your settings are terrible and need major adjustment. The good thing and the bad thing about MIG welding is that it's the machine that's doing a lot of the work so if your settings are bad it's not giving you much leeway.
Also I'm suspecting you're doing that with one of those cheap flux-core welders that are called MIG for some reason and need to switch polarity to produce acceptable beads.
>>1016740
Hahah no. I didn't have an angle grinder for two years so I learned to make them look good real fast
>>1016733
>welding is 50% science, 50% art
no it isnt and slag you drag wire you push
>>1016777
then your welds would have had inclusions and voids in them from the mill scale and rust and shit on the metal
>>1016783
Unless you do TIG or use third-world tier wire and rods mill scale isn't gonna do shit.
>>1016777
how did you clean rust and shit like color?
It looks like you weren't using enough gas.. The carbon shit shouldn't be there unless you are using some kind of Flux core wire? I'd also turn up the amps a little
>>1016800
>more likely its me than the quality of the welder.
Still not sure about that.
One of your biggest problems here is massive porosity, so lack of decent gas coverage. Check the nozzle to see if it's clean enough to let the gas through. When welding make sure your torch isn't at too much of an angle and keep the distance between your nozzle and the piece small. Maybe there's a problem with your gas system too.
What gas are you using?
>>1016719
>are there any tricks to making sure it's as clean as possible?
Grind it down to shiny bright metal.
>>1016777
I prefer to weld right over paint and rust too. I never prep surfaces and my welds hold up just fine.
>>1016849
>hurr I can't read or understand things in context
Nice job Timmy.
>>1016587
Those welds are a shit. That's not a bead, that's pulse mig. They look nice and all, but the only skill you need to make that is the ability to tack.
It takes way more skill to make a nice looking stringer bead.
Source: Certified SMAW, MIG, FCAW welder.
>>1016782
Not true.
Generally, you would push any kind of welding for better penetration.
It all depends on what you're welding, the position you're in, and the strength of the weld you need.
>>1016861
>Generally, you would push any kind of welding for better penetration.
what the fuck have you been smoking
It's been proven many many times that pulling gives noticeably better penetration.
It's one of the reasons why structural steel companies have their FCAW welders pull all the time.
>>1016550
Not enough heat, or you're just not taking your time.
If you ever look at any welding guide, you'll notice their welding isn't just a straight and steady line.
As one welds, you should make very tiny circles to maintain a puddle with proper shape. The number one thing you need to learn is reading your puddle. If you notice it coming apart, you're going too fast. If you notice tour welds are porous, then you have the gas off. If your weld is concave, too hot. If your weld looks like its just sitting on the metal, too cold.
The ability to read your puddle &bead will determine your weld skill. Along with proper technique and practice of course.
>>1016862
It's just what I was taught.
Iv done pipe SMAW/FCAW for 2 years now, never had any weld problems.
Idk about structural.
I do mainly pull though.
Il just do some more research I guess.
>>1016886
>there is no SMAW rod that get pushed ever
How do you pull a vertical open root melt through? I almost always push uphill when doing vertical SMAW, same with FCAW.
>>1016550
Turn up the heat, maybe lower the feed
Best tip I can give is pointing you to ample sources of professional information and some cool forum communities.
http://weldingweb.com/ Vast variety of info on any aspect of any welding process. You can post pics for feedback as you did here. I have over 4,000 posts there. When in doubt, search Weldingweb first.
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard Info on all brands, not just Miller. Another great forum community.
https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/video-library Welding is best learned by watching then repeated practice.
When you post (anywhere):
Note your welder MAKE and MODEL.
Wire type and diameter
What gas mix you are using, or if gasless flux core the specific wire alloy.
Persist, it's well worth it.
Clean your metal prior to welding. Flap discs are my friends.
Learn to buy parts and consumables online, but also make friends with your local welding supply. They can cut you deals and your gas comes from them,
I buy gas cylinders used and exchange them. See forums for more details. Fuck leasing, not worth the money.
Happy welding!
>>1016864
https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/article-library/mig-welding-the-basics-for-mild-steel
"Push or Pull?
The push or forehand technique involves pushing the gun away from (ahead of) the weld puddle. Pushing usually produces lower penetration and a wider, flatter bead because the arc force is directed away from the weld puddle.
With the drag or backhand technique (also called the, pull or trailing technique), the welding gun is pointed back at the weld puddle and dragged away from the deposited metal. Dragging typically produces deeper penetration and a narrower bead with more buildup.
There's an old saying that goes, "If there's slag, you drag," which means use the drag technique for Stick and Flux Cored welding. When MIG welding mild steel you can use either technique, but note that pushing usually offers a better view and enables you to better direct wire into the joint."
>>1016851
Fuck off faggot, you know he's right, you are an edgelord
>>1016825
it looks terible, hope you dont weld some important stuff like bridges and shit
Having another go. Any better?
>>1018286
bether but still needs practice btw i used chalk to make line to hold on was wisible under mask
Then I shall keep practising. It's not pretty but this is my second attempt at mig welding.
I don't want to make another threado so..
I wonder if I can weild these two together 1&2 --> 3 then put the rod in the red spot to make a "mixer" shredder actually.
Thoughts?
>>1018300
forgot pic
>>1018293
Run longer beads to build muscle memory. Straight welds bout six inches long or longer are good.
Once you figure out your most effective hand/arm/body position it will go better, and longer beads will compel you to figure that out.
It's all about "time under the hood". Stick with it and you will be fine.
>>1018301
There's reason you can't weld steel parts to other steel parts.
Practice on same-thickness scrap first.
>>1018326
What reason?
>>1018286
Posting pictures before you've wire brushed them would be more helpful. Then we can see a bit more of the colour and surface. Details like the thickness of the plate you're using and how big those beads are would also be helpful (include a ruler in the picture?).
I think you could do with going slower still and like other anon said: do longer beads. They still look very uneven and you got some porosity in the 2nd from the right which tells me maybe you are letting the wire "stick out" too much (contact tip to workpiece distance) and inconsistency in stick out could also be contributing to your unevenness. Try to keep the distance from the contact tip (on the inside of the nozzle, not the nozzle itself) to the workpiece of 5-10mm (1/4'' to 3/8'') and keep it steady. Also look up some MIG videos and see if you can get that nice sizzling sound of short circuit transfer.
Overall though I think you yourself can see the improvement. These are unbroken albeit very uneven beads and they actually "tie in" at the edges unlike the previous ones. Once you can get some nice even consistent beads try stacking them up next to one another and building a flat even surface. Its easy to get the metal "unrealistically" hot when doing this though do dunk it it water and let the water evaporate off every once and then.
Also for MIG, there isn't a huge need to worry about cleaning off mill scale and any surface residue. Save yourself the time.
Check this out:
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/mig-welding-tips-articles.html
>>1016858
your opinion on pic related please
>pulse mig like the other one?
or
>one continous non stop bead with manipulation?
>>1018301
wtf is this shit
Practice, practice, practice. Instead of wasting bead on a flat plate, try welding to flat plats together. No one ever needs to weld a plate with nothing wrong with it. Go to you nearest metal yard and ask is they have pieces of scrap ends, or cut end shorts of "ChromeMoly" tube. It is stuff roll cage are made of, and experimental airplanes. Practice on what you wil use. Scientific experiments in extreme conditions will use ChromeMoly, Titanium, Aluminum alloy. chrommeMoly is your best start as it is so ubiquitous. And practice JOINING pieces, not just adding metal to one piece....
>>1018632
shit, too cold, regardless.
>>1016550
start with a puddle and work your way left to right following the puddle
>>1018779
p-paper shredder
>>1016550
Burning a smidge too hot, and you need a little more shielding gas. Slow the Speed once you drop the amps and use a "C" pattern.
>>1018804
confirmed scared pussy lol
>>1016858
hey dumbass LOL that pic is from a thread belonging to a CTFab. he would put your fake ass to shame any day of the week. its one continous weld. no stops. that pic is an example.
thats fucking funny that you cant tell the difference
Source: ur a faggot lel
>>1018331
TYPO, my apologies!
Should have been CAN.
Make a solid bead first of all not a bunch of small puddles.
I would guess its to much voltage. I am not a profession welder by any means. I just have one on our family farm and weld metal for broken farm things. Check the little book that came with your welder for the wire speed and voltage for the wire you are using in it.
Also make sure the gas is on, you have a good ground and a clean tip when you do do it.
Pad welding is good exercise to build consistency which is why we had our students begin with it. The length is what builds muscle memory, so OP should do longer beads.
>>1018785
Students need REPEATABILITY before they fiddle with joining a variety of parts. Otherwise changing conditions make it more difficult for them to know what they are doing wrong.
When OP begins to build things this may help:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEDHR-Nst6E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4RrDeUKcH4
>>1016858
>Source: Certified RimJAWB, CC, Boi Pucci faggot.
>>1018804
>he doesnt realize its thick to thin
>gives opinion on one
>is afraid to give another
>says certified in blah blah blah
>>1016825
>>1018853
you mean ZTFab
and holy shit is he successful
>>1018853
Agreed, this is one continuous weld bead. It's a technique called"stacking pennies". Basically the welder makes loops with his weld pool causing the appearance of a dirt dobber weld. This is by far the least acceptable weld appearances I prefer. This appears to be a solid wire and probably welded with 75/25 mixed has, aka C-25. Source AWS CWI, Api-510&570 & 15 yrs welding.
>>1016567
Excuse me what?
>>1016825
Farmerweld confirmed.
Trytrytry
>>1016550
If you want straighter welds, look ahead of your work, not right at it. Put your eye where you want the weld to go (not too far ahead, where you can't even see, obviously).
If you want cleaner welds, slow down, put a very slight tremor in your hand to make a wider pool. Do a few inches, then take a break to let the material cool if the puddle is getting out of control. That was one of my biggest problems, when I was learning, managing heat.
Make sure your material is completely clean. Degrease you material if it's oily at all. Turn up your shielding gas if it still looks crappy. Try doing longer lines when you are practicing, like the whole length of the metal. That will show you what works in real time and let you play around with technique.
>>1020217
Also welding on flat plate like that is not very practical. You should set up two pieces and firm a tee joint. This will help you in applying a fillet weld which is potentially one of the easiest to weld. Its backing if integrated into the joint si typically should not have a problem burning through so long as travel speed and welding parameters are abided by.
>>1020204
is that a replikator from Stargate ?
>>1020288
Your phone camera needs prescription glasses.
>>1020288
Did some intentionally cut the hole for the nozzle that big? Is this a "U" stamped ASME vessel?
>>1020257
i thought i was the only one
>>1016562
A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't
>>1016787
completely correct
>>1016800
the 151te is OK for a cheap welder, definitely not the machine's fault m8
>>1016861
fucking moron
>>1020064
Stacking dimes, you cunt.
