Continuing from last thread about soldering a phone power button...
Finally got some conductive glue in the mail. The syringe was absolute garbage but I made do. Overall I think it turned out as expected, it should work....just waiting for it to completely dry.
Hopefully it's not toxic, my hands were starting to look like the tin man's.
pic related
>>1014807
Take your gore back to /b/ you sick bastard!
>>1014810
this is /diy/ after all
I don't like it, but I made the best of a bad situation
>>1014814
You could have used a soldering iron like any sane person would.
>>1014816
Save the pic for the diy gore thread.
>>1014816
oh I gave it my best shot, but unless you have serious skills and good equipment, it's not gonna happen
>>1014807
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
>>1014807
>sloppy_seconds.jpg
>>1014823
Uhhh, that's like babby's second project tier.
You put a bit of tack under the connector and then solder or get solder past and a oven if you feel fancy.
>>1014823
wut.
Soldering with a $5 iron produces results that are hard to distinguish from professional with a little patience and time.
Does it work? with so much glue you might have shorted something...
>>1014955
Probably not, if those are the leads and the glue in the middle of them both is conductive then the phone will turn off after ten seconds, if he even manages to get it on.
>>1014855
>>1014954
not quite
even a "small" soldering tip is too large for the size of the contacts, let alone the regular one
>>1014955
>>1014958
tried it last night, and no....sigh (I did remove the button, again, and it can still boot with the battery pull)
yes, something was bridged, but according to everything I've seen so far, there is supposed to be a connection in the middle
maybe someone can help explain that; there are two solder points on the outside edge, someone in a video said they were simply to secure it to the board....then there are two on the very bottom back of the button, one on each side....then there is one right in the middle of the back
(see pic...it's oriented upside down)
that middle one doesn't make much sense now that I think about it...my guess is that is another one just to secure it? the metal that makes up the outside of the button is simple one piece that wraps around and the ends come together...what would be the point of that connection otherwise?
my guess is each bottom part ended up connected to the main body, and thus to each other
I'm going to do some testing to see if only the two bottom side connections are what is important, if so, there still might be a chance
on a related note; if someone want to take a real shot at actual soldering again, what equipment does /diy/ recommend? nothing too expensive now
(btw, I just happened to see some place in the area that offers button replacement, but they want $65 to do it)
here's a good picture of what they should look like
can somebody try and explain what that means?
>>1014807
you fucked up, you are shorting it
>>1015039
Yup.
>>1015015
The outer shell and the "hold down tabs" are ALL ground. See how the tab in your pic, right next to the middle arrow, is bridged to the ground plane of the PCB? THAT'S GROUND ya dip. The other two connections are likely V+ and signal.
For future reference, the outer shell of any connector is always ground 99% of the time. Also, surface mount components cannot be fixed with conductive glue. That's like trying to fix a wine glass stem with construction adhesive. Get a fine chisel tip $8 chinese special soldering iron from Aliexpress or Ebay, some .5mm or .3mm 63/37 solder and watch some videos. You'll thank me.
extra special tip: if you learn enough about soldering to desire different temperatures, you can run the iron through a wall-switch dimmer to adjust the power. $20 variable heat iron, enough to do simple repairs.
>>1015015
https://www.youtube.com/user/SUBLOOP/videos?shelf_id=1&view=0&sort=dd
this channel is a great place to start for soldering help.
>>1015058
other two?
I get the one on the left, but are the two green arrows pointing to the middle and right saying they're both ground? ie. it wouldn't matter if that was bridged or not?
I'm doing some shopping now....hate to wait another 3-4 weeks, but better than shelling out any more cash than necessary
what about flux?
(I looked at simply getting another board, but even ones with cracked screens, bad esn, no battery, and possibly even DOA were like $30+....wtf)
>>1015059
I appreciate the suggestion
>>1015058
oh yeah....HF has a variable speed controller that should do the same thing
I was thinking about picking one of those up anyway
as long as this is turning into a soldering thread...
what the heck is the difference between soldering flux, soldering paste, tinning flux, rosin flux...and so on (it doesn't help when sites like ali use every keyword possible to describe something)
>Best Price Welding Paste, Reballing Grease, Soldering Solder Flux
>>1015075
flux is the thing that prevents oxididation and must be present at the soldering site while soldering
soldering paste is sometimes wrongly used to call flux, but actually is a special mix of flux and tiny balls of solder, and appears as a grey paste, used in reflowing
tinning flux is flux for tinning
rosin is a type of flux
welding paste, or welding anything, has nothing to do with soldering
reballing grease is flux for reballing, usually more liquid
soldering solder flux, is just flux for soldering
>>1015078
any preference for type/brand?
>>1015088
cheap chinese tubes from ebay are fine
and most of the time you shouldnt need it for small diy jobs
>>1015058
>8$ faaaaaaaaaaag
http://www.ebay.com/itm/907-Adjustable-Constant-Temperature-Electric-Welding-Soldering-Iron-DIY-Tool-New-/111844730655?hash=item1a0a77271f:g:9osAAOSwf-VWZmyR
been using same one for about 2 years now, changed heater 2 times
>>1016127
Shit dude, I'm still using the free soldering Iron I got with my "Learn to solder" kit 6 years ago.
25w non-adjustable, but I'm pretty darn good with it.
