Hey /diy/, I need ideas
I'm completely redoing my workshop. The working bench itself will be 30mm thick OSB board.
There are a couple of tools which I don't always need. Like the vice, bench grinder, miter box and probably something else I forgot. I don't really want to have them permanently attached to the workbench because they often get in the way.
Does /diy/ know of any sort of base plate design onto which those tools can be mounted, which in turn can be (easily) attached to the workbench? I thought about getting a few 1cm thick steel plates, eg 10x20cm for that. But what's a good design for mounting/unmounting them that's also sturdy enough for heavy vice work?
My current ideas are some sort of screw clamp design, or a series of holes near the side of the bench to use nuts+bolts (but I think in the long run those holes might not be a good idea in OSB).
Maybe use some of those guys in the proper size?
just search for threaded studs (google translate kek)
I just use two 12" x 14" x 3/4" sheets of plywood stacked on top of each other and glued. Then used lag bolts to attach the vise. I also glued on some nonslip shelf liner to the bottom. When I need to use it, I just slap it on the bench and fasten it down with a couple c clamps. It's study as fuck and no way anything I would do would cause the plywood to fail.
Btw this is also how I mount my bench grinder.
>>1011563
Use either T-nuts or threaded inserts.
>>1011563
>30mm thick OSB board.
if you put a vise on it or something heavy that shit will bend faster than you can say zimbabwe
>30mm osb
Does anyone on this board know how to build an actual workbench Jesus fuck.
Look ok if you want to use a vise properly, it has to be mounted properly. If it's going to be in the way then your bench is too small.
>>1011563
OSB is like dead leaves and yard trimmings pressed together. Don't do it, you're just wasting time and money.
If there's like a ReStor or equivalent, try and track down a solid wood door to use as a bench top. Should be pretty reasonably priced.
I'm with everyone else op, you will be disappoint with osb. Get a sheet of actual ply, osb isn't comfortable to work on, it's brittle, and it looks awful. It's not even that much cheaper anymore.
I have a solid wall bench that handles a vice and grinder very well, framed with 2x6s and topped with 1/2 inch ply (roughly half the thickness of your osb)
>>1011676
Better to go with spiked T-nuts, so they stay in place when not being used.
OP here
>>1011676
didn't know of those, thanks
>>1011687
>>1011709
>>1011713
>>1011745
It's just that I can get osb pretty cheap, since it's often on sale around here. Since it's used for every sort of stuff I thought it would be a decent choice. Ply isn't really common here (being non-US).
What if I eg glue three 15mm layers together? The top I planned to cover it a sheet of PVC flooring so I can easily wipe off crap.
I don't think chip boards would make a better choice? (another common board around here)
Btw, the bench will take up the side of the room, resting on L-shaped steel profiles which are bolted to the wall (left, right, back). Plus steel legs every 60cm on the front. Still not good?
>>1011709
>Look ok if you want to use a vise properly, it has to be mounted properly. If it's going to be in the way then your bench is too small.
I will probably leave it on the bench most of the time, but I want to build a bench where I can easily and quickly remove it if needed. And if I can come up with a decent system so I can use the same principle for stuff like the grinder too, more win.
>>1011867
>three 15mm layers
more like 7-10 layers.
>>1011867
>What if I eg glue three 15mm layers together?
that would be more than twice as stiff as 30mm. bolt/screw it to a sturdy frame that spans between the legs, and it should be fine structurally. I'd cover the exposed OSB edges with thin solid wood.
As for mounting the vise and other stuff, choose a modular size that will accommodate the things you want to attach (30cm square, say). Make a triple-layer OSB base that size, and bolt the vise to it. Attach a bolt near each corner of the base that protrudes down, and make holes in the table to accommodate them as the base sits where you want it to go. Use thumbscrews/wingnuts to secure underneath the table.
Using osb for the top isn't awful, but you should use it as a veneer. Build the actual top out of 2 x 4s narrow side facing up, then attach the osb above it. That way, once your table top has degraded over time and use, you can simply remove it and attach a new piece of material in its place, and the actual structure of 2 x 4s will be unharmed.
>>1011873
> 2 x 4s narrow side facing up
He's trying to make a work bench. Not some sort of wooden anvil. I have inch and a half thick wooden bench tops at my work that span a four foot distance and it's still solid in the middle of the span.
Shipping container
>>1012158
>Not some sort of wooden anvil.
I for one like being able to hammer stuff on my workbench without everything jumping around. My woodworking benches have 1.5" thick tops with 2x4 framing underneath (18" max span). They're decently solid for fit up, power tool use, and light hammering. Probably suitable for OP's needs. When I need more solidity than that, my metalworking bench is 3" laminated plywood on a heavy welded steel frame anchored to concrete and the frame of the house. And that's still not as solid as an actual anvil.
I've used Reese-style trailer hitch sockets to mount vises and grinders for many years. You can turn your vise 90 degrees or invert it if you like. It's an old, proven shop trick and will do exactly what op wants.
I suggest looking up vise and grinder stands too, as it's often advantageous to have them off-table.
Google "trailer hitch vise mount" and "reese hitch vise mount". You can buy the parts if you don't have a welder, and most are so cheap I buy them though I have several welders.
Example plate mount. I have my bench grinder on a similar setup.
http://www.dpciwholesale.com/Hitch-Mount-Vise-Plate.html
