>>1007587
Its hard to tell what these were used for without you tracing the wires. It might be that each of those outlets has its own fuse (protip, look into breakers).

>>1007597

The outlets are on the same line as previously mentioned. Wires are surface mounted on the wall

>>1007587
They are wire fuses, if you pull them out and look at the reverse side you will see two terminals with fuse wire across them, the wire thickness determines the value. You will have one for lights and the other for sockets, assuming UK that should be 6A and 13A respectfully. If you plan on using it as a workshop, would get it all replaced with a new consumer unit using rcbo's, cabling and sockets. Those old fuses are notorious for being slow to blow or having the wrong wire installed. You can find modern RCD drop in replacements for them, but they are expensive as fuck. Last time I looked you can get a 10 way CU complete with breakers / rcbo's for the same price.

Hey, im an electrician in the UK. Those are re-wireable fuses by thelook of it, there not great either. The main thing being you can re-wire them to the wrong rating, also the sometimes explode when being overloaded i belive. But as for adding another socket what you need to bare in mind is the amount of power the cable can pull safely before melting and catching fire (what the breakers are in place for aswell as short circuit). The sockets should also be wired in a ring formation as to allow for more power to be ussdby smaller cables. You can either open the rin and add another socket or create a spur (a raidial 1 cable coming off it) but if its allready a spur or a radial circuit its not a good idea. Basically id reccomend either leaving it, getting a qualified electrician in if you can afford it. Also a lighting circuit should not be on a 30A breaker as the cable and installation methoud used would not be sufficent to carry 30A. Meaning that it would catch on fire in the situation of an overload (i.e. you pulling more power than it can handle for an extended peroid of time) ratherthan trip said fuse

Also, that looks like a home made CU, and fuckin old one at that. Id either leave it, or get an electrician to change that for a 3 way RCD protected board. Although itl most likely cost about £300 give or take depending on how hard it is. Maybe more considering how old and home made it is

>>1007976
me too bro

I doubt they have 30A wire in them as I >>1007973 mentioned, definitely get a sparky in. My guess is it's external to OP's main property, looks like an old MEM garage unit minus the face plate

>old maids room
>maids room
>maid

Thanks all.

To clarify I am in the West Indies.

Both covers have 500V30A on them but as you say that can mean nothing. Most of the actual breakers in the main house are 30 amp for almost everything except 15 and 20 amp for certain light series.

This used to be an external maid's (live in house keeper/baby sitter) room but it was attached at some point in the early 90's. The house was built in the 50's or 60's.

>>1007973

>I looked you can get a 10 way CU complete with breakers / rcbo's for the same price.

All that would cost a couple months wages before I start looking at installation here. So I will probably just stick to using an extension chord as I do now.

We have ran a welder and a 2200 watt, killer man, grinder through it simultaneously and it seems to operate.

I am not sure how true this is but we have a lot of electrical contractors here complaining about RCBO's being constantly tripped by our regular daily voltage drops from mainline power. I work at a couple different facilities and their maintenance guys are always turning back on RCBO's several times a day.

Is there any truth to that or are the contractors just shit at their job?

>>1007978

There is a drop cieling above both buildings where the new main line runs so we would probably condemn the old main line as it is cast directly in concrete and mount the rest with trunking on the surface. But I gotta wait for some cash for the material.