Welding thread
>>1007452
Inherited a mig welder thats sat for ages.
Its called "mighty mig" but it doesnt actually say sealy. It looks like pic related. also it runs off of 110v (maybe 120, 120 works)
Assuming its not a terrible idea to use it, I would like to repair it and use it.
The wire inside is rusted, it powers on and I hear the fans running. When I pull the trigger I hear a click like a relay. There was some wire sticking out the tip, like more than there should be so just for the hell of it I put the grounding clamp on some pipe and touched the wire to it and it melted so the transformer still works.
I have the side panel somewhere but Ill have to dig for it.
There is tubing for the gas on the welder still, but the tank has been discarded for whatever stupid reason.
So am I insane for thinking this is usable still?
How should I go about doing this? What should I inspect to make sure things are safe.
Also general welding advice?
>>1007454
update:
Its made by Huth, a German company.
The tip isnt cracked and looks to be in good condition. Inside looks good, just dusty as hell.
There are huge capacitors labeled 12,000 uf made in germany.
Don't see too much corrosion anywhere.
One of the transformers was labeled 110v. The spot weld timer was turned on, that is why it wouldn't feed, turned it off and its feeding now.
I removed the rusted wire, and will be getting new wire and a welding mask tomorrow.
>>1007824
If you aren't going to be using gas get self shielded flux core wire.
>>1008072
Thats the plan, after the flux wire is gone Ill pick up a tank of shielding gas and some normal wire.
It still has the regulators and gauges on it
>>1008072
>>1008084
Got the flux wire, didnt realize just how much this stuff wants to unwind itself.
Now to find out if the settings are bad or if the welder is actually shot.
I right now, its making a bunch of little balls and I can feel the wire actually hitting the metal before it melts. I turned the power up and that seemed to help, but not too much. The metal was glowing in the spot I was welding, and most of the balls will not fall off when struck with a crowbar.
>>1008197
if the wire is stabbing the work and pushing you back, wire feed is WAY too fast.
if turning the feed down/turning the power up more doesn't fix it, and there's no obvious problem with the earth clamp (arcing, rust, weak spring), look for powdery corrosion inside the crimped connections from the transformer to the earth lead. you can replace failed crimp joints with chunky terminal blocks.
>>1007454
>Also general welding advice?
What do you wanna know?
>>1008197
Power when MIG welding is actually wire feed speed most of the time. You have to turn it down. If you can adjust the voltage (arc length) try turning it up a bit too.
>>1008207
Will try again with wire speed slowed down. The earth cable has some visible copper that is corroded as hell, but I'm assuming that the contact inside the ground cable is clean.
>>1008218
Basically anything that you wish someone would have told you. Like sometimes you have to reverse polarity. Which I need to check.
>>1008219
My settings are Power, Spot weld time, and wire feed speed. I'm assuming power is just voltage, it ranges from off- 1 - 15 or something like that.
>>1008226
>I'm assuming power is just voltage, it ranges from off- 1 - 15 or something like that.
I'm still a babby welder so I'm not familiar with older machines and I'm more of a TIG guy so MIG is kinda out of my alley, but IIRC MIG voltage usually goes from 15-16 to the high 20s so I don't think that's it. Also I think some older welders had power and WFS as separate knobs, mind posting a pic of your control panel?
>>1008226
>Basically anything that you wish someone would have told you.
Without trying to sound condescending there's not that much to MIG. The big thing about it is knowing how to adjust your parameters, angle and speed which you'll get used to with practice. There are lots of apps you can download that can help you with that to get you started.
>>1008231
>mind posting a pic of your control panel?
I'm working halfway in the dark right now so a picture wouldn't be that great.
It only has three controls, Its got two pots that say "spot weld" and "wire feed" then it has a rotary switch labeled "power" that is a clicky kind of switch. Machine is off when its turned before 1, and turns on at one. On one it would to its thing on the material (pipe) and when I turned it to 10 the pipe was glowing red afterwards.
It wont feed wire with the wire feed speed turned all the way down, and set half way up the wire is hitting the pipe. Its probably 3/16 exhaust, shiny. It is worth noting though that it appears that the wire feed motor has been replaced. off topic, the motor is running off of about 30 volts.
>Without trying to sound condescending
Didnt take anything said as condescendence. I'm already under the impression that its simple, that's why I was surprised that I had a bunch of little balls.
I would go for tig, but I inherited a mig instead of a tig, so that's what I'm working with for now.
>>1008245
Then you'll have to adjust the arc length yourself using the combination of power and WFS.
With more power (probably technically amperage in that case) wire melts faster and higher up, so needs higher WFS.
If you have fat and sticky projections (the small metal balls), you should try turning down the WFS as we said earlier and turning down the power too (usually less arc length means the puddle splashes around less unless you're doing spray arc).
If I know next to nothing about welding but want to get into it, at least as a basic skill to have, where would I even start?
Buy a used welder for relative cheap somewhere? What about gas, wire, and a helmet?
Should I do some reading first, so I know what the fuck is what?
>>1008251
>where would I even start?
Depends on the perspective but I would highly HIGHLY recommend getting an adequate stick welder (Lincoln tombstone or an used one out of craigslist or something), a basic hood, a couple box of rods (7018, 7014 and 6011) and scrap mild steel and practice all types of joints like a motherfucker.
>Should I do some reading first, so I know what the fuck is what?
I say just watch a couple of Jody's videos (weldingtipsandtricks) to know how to do it in theory and maybe read up a chart or two on different types of steels and irons.
>>1008255
Ok, thanks. I'll keep this in mind if I ever get time to get around to making a hobby out of this.
I'm an engineer by trade and have seen and worked with guys who weld a lot, but I'd like to actually be able to do it at a basic level.
>>1008251
Take a safety shop test first or something, make sure you know what you are not supposed to do
In the shop at my school we worked with a #10 shade for the helmet, but you should look at the AWS (american welding society) to know what shade you need (the higher the amps the darker the shade you need) so i would get a cheapish auto -darkening helmet since you can dial which shade you want with a few other features depending on the helmet
Dont stare into the weld with your bare eyes unless you want to be blind
Can you weld your welder with your welder?
Like if I want a hook or something on the side of the case, is it acceptable to actually weld onto the machine itself?
>>1008304
That doesn't sound safe, so probably no
>>1008304
normally the case is earthed to the mains and not bonded to either of the welding outputs, so it shouldn't do anything fucky.
>>1008304
You might if it's grounded but I'd bolt it on instead. Welder frames are sometimes tack welded to generic rolling carts in industry where old welders are common, but the ones we did were ancient transformer machines.
>>1008501
.. do modern welders not use transformers?
I got a transformer the size of a basketball..
I'm just a lowly MIG hack.
>>1008556
Old style industrial machines are referred to as "transformer" machines because they aren't afflicted with complex control boards (expensive when they fry) and have quite large transformers.
The large ones hold up to very hard use like arc gouging and many businesses reserve old Lincoln 600s etc for just that.
Some such classics are still made because they are tough and have sweet arcs. Lincoln Idealarc and Miller Dialarcs are fine welders.
>>1008556
Most modern welders use circuit based inverters.
>>1008197
Did you look up the recommended settings for your wire? Short circuit mig uses DC electrode +, flux core uses DC electrode -, change the polarities if you haven't. Also make sure you are using the right size set of drive rolls under the correct tension. You're supposed to use knurled drive rolls for flux core but you can probably get away with smooth ones if that's all you have.
When you weld with flux core the contact tip should be about 1/2" out from what you're welding and maintain about a 45 degree drag angle. Start by laying beads across a flat plate. Flux core welding produces lots of heat so quench your piece or let it cool after every few passes Go slow, very slow. Flux core is hollow wire so you won't be laying down as much metal as you'd think. The slag will often times tell you what you're doing wrong. You want a nice thin layer covering the entire weld. If it's missing on a side then you probably have a bad angle and if it isn't on the top you're going too fast. Either way if the slag isn't covering the weld it's in the weld. Good luck and watch your eyes.
>>1008805
I dug out the other sidepanel but the chart is gone.
It might be tucked away somewhere. Ill have to just mess with the settings until I get it right.
I Didn't see a way to reverse the polarity easily, I found the ground cable, but the positive didnt exactly stand out and it was too dark to trace the wires from the gun.
Ground has a short cable going straight to the transformer, so it doesnt really look like I should be screwing with it on this machine.. that being said, it doesnt mean that I WONT fuck with it..
Today I cranked the power all the way up and the wire speed slightly higher and it was welding good. I got a couple lines laid down. It was all solid and covered in slag that I chipped off. Looks ok for flux wire, Im sure it would look better if I used gas and normal wire.
The rollers have a single line in them, which Im assuming is the right size. I took a micrometer and measured the old wire at 0.030 inches, so I bought 0.030 wire.. it seems to be working fine.
>45 degree angle
I wound up trying that today, and that helped a lot. When I first tried it, I was keeping it pointed straight at the work piece.
Today the only thing that stands out is there seems to be little pauses during the welding, almost like ground is loosing contact or the wire speed is too slow.
And yea, I noticed that the wire seems to feed a ton into the piece of metal but there is next to nothing on the surface to show for it. I wound up sitting there and dumping a ton of wire into the same spot and got a decent looking weld.
Thanks, Ill watch the slag and see what its telling me.
>>1007452
Just turned in my stainless 20 gauge sheet certification and aluminum 18 gauge certification test plates in the 1G position and will be working on vertical. Ask me questions if you want I'm at school.
>>1008854
Fellow babby welder here but in Canada.
How do certs on small plates work?
Our certs are pretty much only root-fill-cap on thick shit with tie-ins.
>>1008854
I dont know what any of that means.
I just want my muffler back on my exhaust and would like the ability to do it myself.
I got exhaust pipe from the auto store, and the old pipe is gonna get cleaned with a wire wheel in a grinder. Am I in for a bad time?
Okay retarded question but I haven't picked up a bottle of argon for my tig welder yet so right now I'm stuck in stick mode. Can I use the stick electrodes as filler material while TIG welding? So I don't need gas?
>>1008881
I actually have no idea so I'm talking right out of my ass here, but I'm pretty sure it would be a pain in the ass. Tungsten doesn't like not being protected.
>>1008882
>Tungsten doesn't like not being protected.
Nothing likes being unprotected :(
>>1008231
>Not much to mig.
Said by every retard who comes I to weld test at my job prior to employment and fails the overhead weld test after x ray, and often prior to an x ray because their shit is THAT bad.
They never even make it to Flux core or smaw/arc usually.
I don't even want to talk about the shit people talk about how they are 6G welders and certified and come in and throw errant weld jizz all over the fucking pipe coupon.
Trust me. It's easy to fuck mig up, get lack of fusion, porosity, etc...
>pic related is what most weld tests would look like when handed in if they were drawings that I've seen.
>>1008886
People who talk shit and suck at welding don't make MIG any harder than the other processes.
>>1008886
And I was talking about the parameters specifically. When you know how to set your voltage and WFS unless you're a special kind of retard you can't really fuck up MIG.
>>1008869
You need a backing gas plate and you just do a butt weld. Clean the surface of aluminum very well, clean the stainless with acetone and wipe your filler rod with acetone. Not nail polish remover. 100% acetone.
Certs here are 4 inches by 6 inches and have to be done in front of someone qualified or at school and sent for x ray and other NDT.
>>1008873
If you have never tig welded before (which is what I did my certs with) your probably going to have a bad time, the same goes for any other weld process you want to try or use. Get practice and seat time.
>>1008895
Oh, that's what our TIG were at school. I thought maybe you had to bend it or something.
>>1008888
>>1008889
One wrong centimeter move and you have a failed weld by ultrasound, x ray, etc, especially in the 4G and 6G position.
I'm not saying it isn't easier., its by gar the easiest weld process but it's still easy to fuck up even if you know what you're doing.
I will admit I have done so and spent a long time with a grinder and file because of it
>>1008896
We could do a bend test I guess but it's not as good as x ray and what not.
I'm moving on not mild steel after this and the tube and pipe.
>>1008899
>when you have to pass x ray and ultrasound
If you pass non destructive testing you're a real welder, if you don't you can say you are. Same goes for hot tapping reactive gas pipe.
>>1008900
>If you pass non destructive testing you're a real welder, if you don't you can say you are
>>1008902
Lol. It's okay buddy you will get there just weld Moar and watch more YouTube videos.
Jodie on youtube is good but he shills his rig finger, it works well but so does spark plug cover
>>1008895
>goes for any
Im using a 110v mig with flux core and no gas
plz dont shoot me
>>1008900
>hot tapping reactive gas pipe
balls of steel
>>1008907
Better make sure you know what specific metal the exhaust and muffler are and that you have the correct Flux core, wire speed, and electrical output.
It's possible but you should practice on scrap first that's the same as that you are going to weld.
Personally I think you are going to long arc really bad and spatter the muffler with spray and arc strikes and bird shut it up and maybe even blow through the metal and make a ping pong sized keyhole that you can't fill if you don't practice beforehand.
You could just be a natural. Idk man.
Flux core is harder to use WELL than mig. Good Flux core, especially weaves, can be very pretty.
>>1008910
It's actually not that bad. The amount of natural gas or whatever is in the line is very low and you have to weld through the fire to know you sealed it up 100% on the root pass when you don't have other NDT methods available but yeah it can be a scary and you need a special mask that won't melt.
>>1008912
By "correct Flux core" I mean that you need to have the correct kind of wire for the metal being welded. The welder doesn't matter unless it's broken or a huge piece of shit.
>>1008904
I actually never tried it.
The more I read your posts the more I realize the welding industry seems different here compared to the US. Most welders (myself included) are basic fab guys, so working with plates and HSS and shit like that and do have to pass tests but 99% of the time it's either a visual or a bend test.
Then there are the high pressure guys and boilermakers who have to pass NDT.
I just like my pretty pretty stainless steel TIG comfiness.
>>1008917
It depends on your field mainly.
>>1008912
I expect splattering, but Im not working on a show car.
Ive been screwing around with another piec=ce of exhaust pipe and havnt burned through it yet, almost did one time though.
>>1008920
Go for it then. Did land on the moon talking about it lol
>>1008920
A lot of those flux core MIGs can be easily upgraded to gas shielding.
If you're going to do more than one project,think about getting a bottle if you can.
Its like $50ish (depending on bottle size) to fill a bottle that will last you for a couple years.
Get the 75%/25% co2 argon mix.
>>1008926
its an old mig welder, it even has regulators and guages on it still. I do plan on using gas eventually but I'm not forking out a shit ton of money just to attach a muffler.
I only got a pound of flux wire, after thats gone Ill get the gas and real wire.
Thanks for the input, I was wondering the price/last of the gas.
What do you guys think of the Miller syncrowave 210? Seems to be good with Tig/stick/mig and has AC, so it seems good for a beginning welder for a person who just wants to practice on stainless and aluminium.
>>1009317
Get a standalone tig and stick welder and have might on a separate machine.
Personally Lincoln sqaurewaves are better in my opinion and Lincoln is better in general. Lincoln is for welding and miller is for drinking.
Then again... do what you want I'm just of the opinion a machine with all three capabilities is going to have maintenance issues compared to classic standalone styles and being able to have the pulse setting for tig is huge and not having to lift arc start is a big deal. So is high frequency start and high frequency continous settings.
Whatever you get make sure at the least it has high frequency start and high frequency continuous if you want to weld aluminum with a cleaning and penetration setting.
>>1009321
>Have mig on a separate machine**
>>1008632
:^)
>>1009266
Thanks, I saw that somewhere and I've been trying to get it in my head ever since
>>1009321
It is a tig/stick machine, but mig can be added.
>>1009337
I like my synchro wave 250 at school. Has pulse too.
>>1009321
lincoln is shit theres a reason most shops have millers and theres a reason there are more old miller machines around then lincolns
>>1009507
Lol no.
Stay mad power of blue boy.
>>1009516
He's right you know.
Miller welders are the only ones I've never had issues with.
>>1008226
>I'm assuming power is just voltage, it ranges from off- 1 - 15 or something like that.
>>1008556
Modern welders typically have one sandwiched between a variety of fancy electronics. One thing those extra bits do is allow the use of a much smaller transformer while greatly increasing its efficiency, which is why a modern inverter machine is smaller, lighter, and more powerful than a transformer equivalent, while producing a fraction of the waste heat.
>>1008881
You can use stick electrodes as filler metal, but you'll need gas to run the arc. And you should remove the flux in that case, since it would outgas and disrupt the arc / damage the electrode. Arcs in air are rather unstable (higher resistance than argon), and they quickly turn unshielded tungsten into sprays of atomized smoke. If you absolutely have to TIG weld without gas, maybe use something like nichrome (iridium would be better) instead of tungsten, and use low amperage.
>>1008888
Flat, horizontal, and vertical down MIG is about the easiest welding there is. Out-of-position MIG with zero defects allowed is pretty hard.
>>1009317
Pretty good. A versatile if basic TIG. It's better than most consumer-targeted machines, but not as good as most professional-targeted machines. Good for a garage but not easy to transport to different locations. A friend of mine has one, and it works well for the small/medium things you'd probably use a home TIG for. I have a Multimatic myself. It's not as good at TIG, but I value the (very nice) MIG function and portability. I've taken it on vacations.
>>1008226
>I'm assuming power is just voltage, it ranges from off- 1 - 15 or something like that.
Probably voltage. Some (mostly lower-end) machines have numbered ranges like that instead of an actual indication of the voltage or other settings.
how would one go about checking if a welder is functional without using it? Considering it probably hasn't been used in decades, and it is stick, what should I check? I have no idea what brand or model it is.
>>1009764
>>1009768
Did I say something wrong? Sorry, I should specify that I have neither ppe or electrodes to use where im going, so I can only give it a visual
>>1008886
AHAHAHAHAHA. I'm a union boilermaker tube welder who holds CWIs
MIG is peasant tier welding. Anyone and their cousin can do mig. You can learn how to pass a MIG code test in a day.
Man the people in this thread talking about welding know squat about this trade.
>>1009908
Must be why so many people fail mig 4G x ray tests.
>>1009915
Its because they're not real welders.
Tell me how hard it is to run an overhead pass.
If you've been structural welding for more than 2 years and you cannot pass an Xray then you're not cut out for welding.
>>1009928
True. But my point is you can't just grab a mig gun and pass some fucking x ray tests week one. Especially overhead.
It's easy to fuck up if you're an idiot and most "welders" are fat fucking idiots or meth head alcoholics lol.
Not all but there is a reason certified welders get more money and are the ones in demand. A certified mig welder and Flux core welder makes more than some dumb fuck spraying cheap fences together with the world's most crusty and electroactive mig nozzle.
>>1009538
>>1009891
Bring along a voltmeter. Plug the welder in, turn it on, and check the voltage between the ground clamp and the electrode holder. If you get a reading between 20 and 100 V, it's probably good.
If you want to actually fire it up without needing PPE, bring along an electrode-sized steel wire (whatever electrodes the machine would be using). Put it in the electrode holder, set the machine to 120 A or so (for 1/8" - other sizes would use different current), and attach the ground clamp to a bare metal surface. Stick the wire to the metal surface, leave it there, and watch. If the machine can make it glow, it should be good to weld. Be sure to release the electrode holder and break the arc quickly once it does start glowing, and make sure that the now-floppy wire won't fall on something flammable.
>>1009891
If you have absolutely no PPE you can improvise, welding helmet glass is like $5, you can use oven mits as gloves.
>>1009956
>check the voltage between the ground clamp and the electrode holder
don't do this, if it has an easy start arc you'll send 3kV+ through your meter and fry it, probably even set it on fire.
>>1009516
great retort so informative and well thought out i really liked how you just proved my point that lincoln is shit and only for faggots like you
>>1009915
i dont think you know what your talking about you wouldnt be doing groove tests out of position for structural welding it would be fillet tests and an overhead GMAW is actually the easiest position if you have an any idea of what your doing
>>1009964
>easy start arc
And what decades-old stick welder would have that?
>>1009321
>Personally Lincoln sqaurewaves are better in my opinion and Lincoln is better in general.
It's not just your opinion by the way, its reality.
Figure I can ask here:
So I am needing to make some crucible lifting tongs. They'll experience some fairly high temperatures, and I'm concerned about which stick electrode to go with.
I have a Lincoln ac225. The crucible will be heated to temperatures capable of melting bronze and likely even higher. The weight of it will be roughly 60 pounds of molten material.
I don't expect the tongs to be under direct heat for any substantial amount of time, so I may be overthinking this--but it would really suck to find out my welds lost their load bearing qualities while I'm in the middle of lifting such a massive amount of liquid hot metal.
Anyone have any input on this?
>>1009998
lol reality and tell me what do you do for a living
>>1010039
I'd use 7018ac rods.
>>1009964
I'll see if I can get some pictures, but it might be days before I post them since there is no internet there
>>1010039
7018 as the other anon said. More importantly, make the tongs and the welds beefier than they'd need to be just for structural considerations. This increases the heat capacity of the weldment, meaning that it won't get as hot in use, and it reduces the stress on the welds. Steel typically loses upwards of 95% of its strength at bronze-melting temperatures, so make sure that the parts directly in contact with the crucible are especially strong. The bulk of the tongs shouldn't get nearly that hot, but it's a good idea to build in a generous safety margin for something like that. Are you doing structural calcs?
>>1009964
Don't listen to this idiot.
Oven mitts will fucking melt into your skin. You go out and buy a pair of welding gloves for 10 dollars at Home Depot. Matter of fact Amazon has them for 6.
It's called a Hood not a helmet.
If you want to teach yourself how to weld, go get a HOBART (same company as Miller but cheaper)
MIG machine, 125 volt. I know you can pick one up for like 200 dollars. Get some .035 wire and a bottle of 70/30 and go to weldingtipsandtricks.com
You won't be professional level but you'll be alright to do hobby projects.
Welding is not cheap to learn or do and nor should it be treated as such.
If you looked into my shop my machines are
Miller trailblazer 325 (5.5k) (+ MIG suitcase feeder 1.5k)
Everlast HF TIG unit (1.4k)
Lincoln cracker box (it's an AC only unit 200 off craigslist)
My welding hood (SavePhace Gen Y) was 450 dollars, you don't need a fancy auto darkening hood either, I bought it because I can. You can go to a pawn shop and buy a 10 dollar pipeliner hood with a #10 shade
Do not purchase a TIG unit unless you have someone that knows how to TIG. Because that's something you just can't teach yourself.
for all the guys in here asking for advice
Do not take any advice from any of these plebs unless they can prove their work.
Bad advice will not only cost you a lot of money, but it will hurt you.
Here's a stainless to carbon fillet weld.
>>1010139
i hope they NDT your wife and find a nigger inclusion
>>1010139
>stainless to carbon steel
Yeah ...that will be a strong bond.
Can you MAG weld stainless steel?
>>1010139
is that a tig weld?
>>1010070
>>1010127
What's the reasoning for 7018?
I am new to welding and metal casting in general, so not really familiar with structural calculations. To my understanding, if done right, the weld will be the strongest points, as the tensile strength of the welding material in a 7018 rod is 70k per square inch, and the steel I'll be welding has around 30k tensile strength.
At no point will these peices be smaller than a square inch, so I'm assuming even weakened to just 5% of its strength, they should hold well enough.
5% of 30k is 1500, and even 1% is still 300. Though I seriously doubt the tongs will ever get as hot as the actual crucible or its contents. They will only be in contact with the crucible for a few minutes at a time, and shouldn't transfer the full amount of heat that quickly. The welds will not face the heated crucible, so it seems to me that I'm relying on the base steel to hold up, and electrode choice may not matter, as they're all double the strength.
So what are the benifets to 7018, vs 6011 or multiple passes of 6013?
>>1010178
7018 looks way better and all those rods are all position.
>>1010178
7018 is easier to clean and smoother to run
>>1010178
6011 is a fast freeze rod, the filler metal solidifies quickly and the arc penetrates deep which makes the weld choppy but good for open roots or gaps. 6013 is a fast fill, the metal stays liquid longer so it smooths out and looks nice but low penetration. Good for thin stuff, art or other low load bearing structures. 7018 has both properties so it has moderate penetration and produces good looking welds that are strong. It sounds like you're going to be doing a single pass horizontal or flat fillet weld, a 3/32 7018 should "wash" into both sides and create a nice flat weld that will penetrate deep enough to prevent cracks from forming at the edge of the weld after repeated heating and cooling.
TLDR: 7018 is the tits
have a bunch of scrap angle stuff from metal shelving, it's not very thick but I'd like to use it for something simple like a holder for a bike
would a cheap 120v welder from HF be alright, or would it still be too powerful? would soldering be a better shot?
>>1010168
Yes, but the carbon dioxide will somewhat absorb into the metal, producing carbide that nucleates rust. So not if it has to remain stainless.
>>1010174
Yes. The ripple pattern indicates filler wire dips.
>>1010178
>What's the reasoning for 7018?
7018 is a low-hydrogen rod that is much tougher (less prone to cracking) than regular rods. It will be less likely to fail in any given application (especially cyclic loads), and if it does, it will be more likely to fail gracefully, with warning. Use rods from a freshly-opened package, or bake them before use. Absorbed water ruins their toughness (a few hours of exposure to the atmosphere can be enough), but the handling characteristics the other anon mentioned are the same.
>not really familiar with structural calculations
300 pound strength is plenty for a pure tensile load. It is not nearly enough for a bending load that has to support a 60-pound crucible.
Calculate the tension, compression, bending, and shear loads that each part of the tongs will experience (the only one that is likely to be significant from your description is bending). Check out https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Section_modulus for bending stress. Divide the bending torque by the section modulus to find the material stress. If you post a sketch, I can identify the spots to check.
Also, 30ksi is a remarkably low strength for steel. The cheapest steel commonly available for structural use breaks at around 60ksi, yields at 36ksi, and has a 30ksi usable strength with safety margin. Weld filler has a similar breakdown, with 7018 having a 70ksi breaking strength, a lower yield point, and a lower still design stress. And you should not count on your welds to attain 100% of the filler's nominal strength unless you're a rather good welder. Design strength for professionally-welded joints is commonly around 70% of the filler's nominal strength to accommodate imperfections that have an impact far out of proportion to their size.
>>1010258
>Absorbed water ruins their toughness
How do they know to stay tough after being welded onto something?
>>1010253
>would a cheap 120v welder from HF be alright
Depends on the thickness of the angle and your welding skill. If it's heavy hot-rolled structural angle, the welder might struggle to get good penetration, and if it's thin-gauge stamped sheet, it may be hard to avoid blowing through at the machine's lowest setting. Skill mitigates both, though. What's the metal thickness and the (stick?) welder's output range? Soldering is not suitable for a structural connection like that, but brazing would work with suitable joint design.
>>1010259
Steel's permeability to hydrogen (which absorbs into steel and makes it brittle) is negligible at low temperatures. Unless you're making a rocket fuel line or something, hydrogen is only a concern when the metal is liquid. Since water breaks down into hydrogen and oxygen, 7018 has to be bone dry to prevent hydrogen from getting into the puddle and making the weld brittle. Rods like 6011 and 6013 have flux that contains hydrogen anyway, so baking them isn't as important.
>>1010259
H2O from moisture in the air will contaminate the flux. Low hydrogen rods need to be stored in a rod oven or vaccum sealed container. Old 7018 rods will produce welds that will still pass bend tests but if you're welding to a code you better make sure that your rods haven't been out of the oven for more than a few hours. Look up hydrogen enbrittlement.
>>1010263
>if it's thin-gauge stamped sheet, it may be hard to avoid blowing through at the machine's lowest setting.
that's what I'm afraid of...the advice I've seen from looking previously, essentially said it's not even worth trying
which stinks because the material seems prefect for what I want to use it for, and it will likely get tossed otherwise
>What's the metal thickness and the (stick?) welder's output range?
I can't be sure, but what you'd expect from a lower priced metal shelving unit
the welder lists the min. size as 1/16
>>1010274
>I can't be sure, but what you'd expect from a lower priced metal shelving unit
So anywhere from 26 gauge to 1/8" since there isn't one standard kind of shelving unit. I'm looking for something quantifiable here. I've stick welded as thin as 22 gauge. And thickness ratings on welders are more loose suggestions. What's the amperage range?
>>1010282
got a pic, pardon my rust
it's probably at or close to the maximum thinness
>What's the amperage range?
it says 55-70, not that I'd put a ton of faith in that
>>1010181
>>1010236
>>1010247
>>1010258
Thanks, guys. I'll spend a few weeks fucking around trying to learn some competence with all three rods. Will probably post some more questions at a later time.
I feel like you guys cleared up some technical stuff I was having trouble figuring out on my own. Obviously I don't have all the answers I'll need just yet, but will need to do some dicking around till I realize what my next questions are.
Any more comments will be appreciated. Feel free to add in any info that might help out a total fucking newbie that's willing to consider all advice.
>>1010291
So THAT kind of shelving angle. Which isn't actually an "angle" structural shape, what with those extra bends. It's stick-weldable if you're good, but it would be a bitch to fit that up into tight joints. And in any case, it's too floppy for a bike rack unless you build an intricate triangulated lattice. You might use that as stiffening elements in a structure (do lap joints where possible), but on its own, it's only suitable for tensile and light short-span compression loads. Metal that light that isn't a tube is not suitable for bending or torsion loads, which you'll probably have in your bike rack.
>>1010258
As for posting a sketch of the tongs, I can post a picture of what someone else has made.
The concept is pretty simple, dimensions will likely vary. The steel I'm working with is 1.25" x 3/16" x 36"
>>1007454
>>1007824
Update:
Got the polarity reversed today. It really wasn't suppose to be reversed on this welder, but fuck it.
Long story short, had to make a wire and relocate the connections inside.
The flux wire is now welding A LOT better, less than half the amount of bbs being made.
I didn't actually try welding, Ill try that tomorrow.
Is it normal for flux core to smoke up a garage in just a few seconds or was I burning something else?
>>1010310
by rack I meant like a basket/holder to put on a bike, not a bike on it....might also have some thicker scrap to salvage from other bikes and junk
(I would consider rivets, but that seems like it would be a huge pain)
I'd also like to try and make a frame for a stand fan so it can sit upright in a window
>>1010316
So the hot-zone welds will only be under shear, in a restrained lap joint. You won't need 7018 for that (though it wouldn't hurt, of course). Put a fillet weld around that crossing, and it will be by far the strongest part of the tongs. The bar stock would turn floppy from heat before that weld would have any problems.
See the two right-angle bends on each arm? Those are going to be the weak spots. Each lift will bend already-deformed metal back and forth. From the size and weight involved, it probably won't break on you, but I'd add a diagonal (a thin rod would be fine since it's only in tension) from each outer corner to the section between the pivot and the twist in order to stiffen it up.
>>1010319
>Is it normal for flux core to smoke up a garage in just a few seconds or was I burning something else?
Flux core is the smokiest welding process, so that could do it, but if the metal was dirty, there would be smoke from that too. It's best done with an exhaust fan or cross-ventilation.
>>1010321
>by rack I meant like a basket/holder to put on a bike, not a bike on it
Well, that's different. That metal should be strong enough, then, if you have a halfway-decent frame design. However, it would be such a hassle to fit up for welding that I'd use nuts/bolts if possible.
If you really want to weld it, use seam and lap joints where possible, and weld in very short sections. Prepare weld joints by cleaning off the paint and rust, and flattening the bends along where the weld will go. Remaining gaps will melt open much faster than a tight joint, and filling gaps with stick on stuff that thin is tricky.
>>1010328
>, but if the metal was dirty, there would be smoke from that too.
I was thinking more along the lines of burning up the transformers that I just screwed with.
>>1010341
If the electronics in a welder go, you'll definitely know about it. There's typically a bang. Also, the welder stops working.
Still, it's a good idea to keep the internals clean of dust and debris. Did you blow things out when you opened it up? I hope that you didn't disable the thermal overload shutoff, because that would be silly.
>>1010350
No. I moved the wire on the mig gun from the big transformer transformer to the small transformer at the point where it connects to the clamp wire. Then I made a wire from 4 gauge stranded and connected the clamp to the spot on the big transformer where the mig gun use to be.
I dont see why this would burn out anything, but stuff doesn't always go according to plan.
Also the two terminals are too close for comfort, with one of them literally floading about 2 cm away from the other. When I said this wasn't meant to have the polarity reversed, I meant it.
I'm either going to switch to mig after the flux wire is gone, or make it a NON floating connection point really soon, but for now its wrapped in electric tape..
I usually dont do shit like this.
>>1009507
>>1009516
disagree completely with you. ive run a lincoln power mig 215 for 500lbs of wire with nothing changed but the consumables and zero problems. i mightve gotten 1 birds nest and that was from a newbie not cleaning the nozzle and still trying to pull the trigger.
tldr: dont be a shill
>>1008889
depends how hot it is. A MIG in spray can be hard to control. Metal core does the same job really, but much more reliably.
The thing to remember with MIG is that it can be like three entirely different processes depending on the parameters. A short is not globular sure as shit isn't spray.
>>1010352
If you like how the flux core runs, you might consider rewiring things to go through connection lugs for ease of switching in the future.
>>1010353
Silly anon, remember where you are. There is another brand that clearly makes the best welders.
>>1010319
Flux core is the snoop dog of welding. Open your garage door some and set up a box fan blowing the air out.
>>1010367
Ill just weld outside, fuck that. things got like a 10 foot cable for the gun and god knows how long the actual cable is. Knowing my father, he pulled it off of something else. On the side of the case I noticed he actually welded a hook and bracket of some sort to wind the cord on.
>>1010360
>connection lugs
Yea, that's the name of those things. I put those things on the end of the wire I added so that I can easily switch it back. I figure I should route it to a designated spot at some point so that the wires are mounted and cant wobble around, and it will be easier to get access too.
>>1010354
It's okay I forgive you lol. But yeah Lincoln has had a few problem machines come out that googling for 10 seconds let's you know which to avoid. In general their stuff is better and their viking 3350 helmet with the 4c lense is the best welding helmet out there in my opinion and shits all over 3m speed glass stupidity and miller elite or infinity helmet. Jackson safety is for literal retards.
I personally own the Viking 3350 helmet.
Friendly reminder that only faggots take pictures of their welds.
>>1010405
how jealous do you have to be to even wind up at that conclusion?
>>1010328
thanks for the advice
>>1010328
>use seam and lap joints where possible
>>1010426
That should be edge and lap joints. I was thinking of different terminology. If edge and lap joints burn back a bit, they're still easily weldable, and may close on their own as the metal balls up, so they're more forgiving on thin metal other joints.
>>1010131
>Oven mitts will fucking melt into your skin.
They wont, they're rated for 400 C like you're likely to encounter in most ovens, the sparks are such low energy they'll drop well below that temp before they even hit the mitt, that's how I started welding, mitt on my right hand on the torch, left hand holding the shade in front of my eyes.
>Welding is not cheap to learn or do and nor should it be treated as such.
Which is completely wrong, welding is one of the cheapest trades/hobbies around, where I live everyone owns a stick welder or better, most of them aren't good welders by a long shot but you get the idea.
>*lists over spec'd machines for anyone getting into the trade*
What was the point in this? are you trying to discourage people or just want to grow your epeen?
>Do not purchase a TIG unit unless you have someone that knows how to TIG. Because that's something you just can't teach yourself.
Again a load of shit, TIG is easier than stick or MIG. You can get good at TIG the same way you get good at anything, just practice, verify and practice some more.
>>1010325
Awesome. Didn't even think of adding some support, but the extra insurance won't hurt.
>>1010353
so your experience with one machine for one barrel of wire makes the entire brand the best? ya not how it works my work has probably 1000 welding machines and i will take an ancient miller dialarc over the few idealarcs we have any day of the week.
>>1010360
you realize thats a battery machine that costs about 8k and for the price really a fronious is a cheaper and higher quality choice
>>1010373
and have you used a miller elite a speedglas or an opel? ill give you the viking is better then miller elite but a speedglas is the best mask under 1000$ your going to find
>>1010450
>TIG is easier than stick or MIG
no it isn't and that anon is probably referring to getting certified in said process not just "hey look at my weld bead on this Hungarian knitting board it mean imma real weldor" in which case SMAW is easiest
>>1010476
No its not. I have used all the miller hoods and the speed glass. Even that goofy yellow jackson.
The speed glass is overpriced shit. It's parts and enses are expensive for no reason and if you weld overhead enjoy every last park of the face catching sparks and melting.
>>1010450
>TIG is easier than stick or MIG
lolno
While we're talking about hoods.
Did anyone here try the Optrel Vegaview 2.5?
I was thinking of getting myself a nice hood and a good pair of gloves to celebrate when I'm done with welding school in a couple months.
>>1010501
Just do yourself a favor and get Lincoln viking 4c 3350 and enjoy it working and being able to see actual color on the weld puddle and being able to watch slag on top of the puddle and if your edges wet in properly.
>>1010502
It's more or less the same price as the Optrel so I was wondering.
>>1010501
Any helmet with a lip like this, just like a speed glass or miller elite is going to melt terribly if you ever weld overhead with anything but tig.
Theclear lenses are stupid expensive the same way speedglass is compared to miller and lincoln. You will replace them as they get scratches naturally and slag hits it in all positions.
>>1010504
My helmet. Still love it. No gap against the clear protective part to catch slag and spatter.
>>1010508
>>1010508
Some practice aluminum I have done
>>1010510
Some more practice aluminum. This was a while ago. I have gotten better since and better at staying away from fish eyeing or cratering the end of the weld.
>>1010512
>>1010510
>>1010508
Another one pushing more fill. It's nice to have darkness adjustments on a helmet like my Lincoln because aluminum can be really bright due to the AC current and silver on silver puddle. All auto helmets worth a shut have that option with a grind mode.
>>1010508
wew, didn't know they made shades that big, still prefer the standard wide view, much more cinematic experience.
>>1010520
The shade that large is nice because you can walk around in the shop with the hood down and still see shit and manipulate stuff in front of you, clamp stuff, etc. When it's not darkened its VERY clear light green. Less than sunglasses. It's also very useful in grind mode. Won't auto darken and you get a protective face cover for an exploding grinder disk.
>>1010450
Dude you're fucking retarded lol
Everything you've typed is a load of bullshit.
Btw I'm the tradesman boilermaker from a few previous posts.
I've been in this field for years, and my family has been in this trade for decades and the fucker who posted the best weld in this thread.
You're the kind of idiot that the company would run off on a job because you'd be a huge liability.
Don't weld with oven mitts kids unless you like polyester and Cloth burning into your skin.
I legit did not retain anything else you typed in your post because it really was not worth whatever you're typing. Obviously you're not a welder. Stop giving advice peasant.
And I listed the machines in my shop to give the new welders an idea of how much it costs to have a decent set up.
Take your $150 dollar Chicago eletric wire feed ass down the road
>>1010573
what if they're cotton oven mits?
I could fucking swear that they would be a lot more protective than the chap leather MIG gloves my company gives us.
But yea, in general welding with oven mitts is stupid. Welding gloves are cheap and plentiful
>>1010485
>welding over head with an auto-darkening mask period
come on. I mean, if you're just doing little passes here and there with a cooler setting on T-9 wire with lots of argon or something like that, okay, but something really hot with a lot of spatter being thrown off of it and you're asking to scrap your mask. Same goes for arc-air gouging. You can get away with using an auto for long enough, sure, but the time you don't you'll be pissed off. Even the price of a cheap auto-darkening mask isn't worth it considering you have the option of using an ordinary mask for those kinds of things. It's just common sense.
>>1010474
lmao! where did i say it made that one brand the best?
i said i disagree with a statement and gave my own in depth experience on that particular brand and machine.
ive used red and blue and yellow and several more less popular brands.
thats funny that you mention an ancient miller dialarc because thats the one i learned to use as my first stick welder. i will ALWAYS love that machine.
tldr: dont be a shill
>>1010373
thanks for forgiving me lol
i kind of agree with your taste in hoods but personally speedglas came out on top when i did a comparison on paper for a pro helmet. the viking 3350 came in second for me despite its drastically better price. speedglas just had exactly what i was looking for.
>>1010573
>>1010617
ok now i see your line of thinking a little better, i was referring to every oven mitt i've used, all of them cotton, polyester gloves of any kind are a bad idea.
as for everything else in your post, i'm targeting /diy/, not people building submarines/boilers. and for your information my first welding box was a chinese knock off i found on the side of the road, spent $20 total on a shade and some rods to just see if it worked. now i weld shit all the time, they're by no means quality but have been proven to hold in there application. thats with nothing more than watching a few youtube videos and practice. in fact just today i lifted a 350kg diesel engine with a hook i fabricated, just basic stick weld, no xray check, full of holes and voids but it works and will continue to work for as long as I have this engine.
point is: you don't have to be a good welder to weld, you don't need good equipment to weld well and you certainly aren't going to need a certification to do a lot of trade work(i.e. most maintenance jobs), someone will make sure you're good enough before you touch anything critical because you can't hide a shit weld from anyone.
>>1010633
The thing that shocked me the most when I started welding was seeing how insanely strong even a shitty weld can be.
>>1010633
>and you certainly aren't going to need a certification to do a lot of trade work(i.e. most maintenance jobs)
this is why we don't pipefitters or millwrights you dont know what your doing, if you wired up a receptacle in your house and it fails and you die your insurance isnt going to pay out because your not electrician, if you plumb in a toilet and do it wrong and flood your house again no insurance because your not plumber
>>1010639
>this is why we don't pipefitters or millwrights you dont know what your doing
wat
>>1010636
ya, when you look at it in terms of material volume it makes sense, one good blob is the equivalent of a M6 bolt's tensile strength. biggest step up for me was understanding penetration, not just adding a fuck load of rod but getting all of it to melt together makes such a good weld because you end up taking your time which ofc leads to nicer appearance.
>>1010639
>>1010641
yeah most people doing those jobs are self employed so they don't have insurance anyway. either get gud or get out.
Hey boilermakerbro,
Do you have any general advice for a turbofaggot who (for now at least) wants to specialize in TIG?
I try to get as much practice time as I can at school but maybe there's something more I should be doing.
>>1010573
Do you have over 9 thousand confirmed welds too you little rascal?
>>1010620
You would think that. I keep a couple cheap fixed shades for it too but sometimes you have to do something on the spot and you will be glad when nothing gets siper fucked on your hood.
>>1010573
If i do get to try out the welder by any change i'll for sure have to blow the insides with air or something because dust and dirt is abundant where it is
All i needs is gloves, a hood, and electrodes
>>1010673
You damn skippy I do. The moron I replied to has no idea what he's talking about.
And he thinks because this is aDIY board you shouldn't need to know your shit?
Ya that's def safe lifting an engine block with hardware "welded" to the block filled with porosity.
Let's put it like this, there is a reason for codes and standards being enforced into our society.
Good luck when that welded part snaps and it crushes your foot
Sorry @ tagged poster for being linked to the rest of this rant I'm on my iPad so I can't be arsed to go back up and Link his.
But he'll see this (or not, don't really care)
Welding regardless of profession or it being a hobby if the welds have any relation to any weight bearing item then you will want it to be a sound strong weld. For yours and others safety
You don't need to RT/PT/MT/UT/Destructive test any weld you do that is not required for a test.
In the field we don't have our welds tested every time, matter of fact we have the main initial code tests and will never see a weld test again unless we change jobs/companies or if we need to re-certain or if the welders skill is in question.
>>1010739
Field testing is changing rapidly due to handheld ultrasound programed for metal.
>>1010739
What state do you work in?
I'm at school in Phoenix right now. Public college not private aai joke welding.
>>1010739
I didn't weld to the block you retard, it was a two sided fillet weld of two pieces of 6 mm flat bar with 3 mm rod. The porosity was because I hung too long in order to get enough penetration.
Guys, are AC only machines worth it? I got one for like 40$ along with a welding mask and a pack of 6013 electrodes. The only downside is that it's only 100 amps
>>1010739
>In the field we don't have our welds tested every time, matter of fact we have the main initial code tests and will never see a weld test again unless we change jobs/companies or if we need to re-certain or if the welders skill is in question.
In Canada we have to do a test every two years for each process. If you have, for example, all four position SMAW, you only have to do a test for 4GF to renew all your tickets though. That's for the basic structural code though. Don't know about high pressure stuff or aluminum as I never worked in it.
>>1010932
>I hung too long in order to get enough penetration.
makes no sense if your getting porosity your doing it wrong
>>1007452
Hey welders. I wondered if one somehow can maked pic related color on a homemade pocketknife of the same metal. Do you need a blowtorch or can one simply use a lighter?
I got the color on pic related by using an angle grinder.
>>1010992
http://www.zianet.com/ebear/metal/heattreat4.html
Ctrl+F for 'straw'
A propane torch would be adequate.
Cleaning the metal us extremely important for a good finish. Like acetone on and or break cleaner and never touching it with your hands until you are done treating.
Also the flame from the torch itself disrupts the coloring so you won't get a great finish S long as you are heating the part directly.
Optimally you would set the blade in a tray of metal shavings and heat the tray. The shavings and tray will make the heat distribution more eben.
>>1010996
>>propane torch
Would it work with a propane primus?
Putting the blade in an oil bath then cooking it in the oil on the propane primus?
(Also please tell me if i'm way to off theme)
>>1009499
Definitely a good machine, but I am on a budget, odds are I should just save up for a decent machine instead of buying a cheap one.
>>1011003
you would need to put the bed of metal shavings on the primus, then sure.
Oil will temper the blade, but it won't get the color, the straw color is from an oxide formed with air. you won't be able to clean the oil off in time for it to form outside the oil bath.
It's pretty simple in the shavings. You just watch it and pull it off when it's the color you like.
https://youtu.be/uST7iJgC_gs?t=7m50s
this guy is good and in other videos will also show you how obsessive you need to be about cleaning parts if you want this sort of finish to look nice.
>>1011044
https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=874c3f4a-fa87-4f2a-8480-ad108f8ec4b4&feature=cards&src_vid=8OViP9AR2HE&v=NhjiIPohUyw
HIs video about blueing vs making the blueing tray.
>>1010720
I looked at the welder today and it looks functional, turns out the maker is infra miller, so everything on it is in spanish but thats no problem. I did notice visible wire from the 2 cables that hook on to the terminals, can that be easily fixed with electrical tape?
made this engine skid the other day. tfw can't weld for shit, seems to be holding together after running tho
>>1011071
I made an illustration of what im talking about, forgot to take pictures
>>1010932
I don't give a fuckkkk what you did fag. You've already shown you're not a welder. God damn bitches like you wouldnt last a day in the field as a helper.
Fuck out of my face trash.
>>1010854
I'm Local 592 Tulsa,OK.
I actually worked out of the Phoenix local about 3 years ago. Thats where I took my boilermakers apprentice test.
It was a 2-3-4 structural SMAW test with a backing plate to get you into pool 2
And a 6g 2" sch.80 combo test no hot pass to get you into pool 1 (highest)
If a guy named Jacob is still the business agent out of that local he'll set you up.
>>1010852
bro I know lol, I'm a CWI as well
For the people that need/want to know what a weld that will pass code is. This is a MIG 045 root pass (in the picture)
>>1011092
whoops wrong picture, that's a hot pass off a header.
The hot pass is there so our FCAW/Fluxcore process doesn't have a blow through
Here you go this is a corner root pass
>>1011095
Looks nice
When I was in school, I could never figure out why mine looked either too hot or too cold since I tried to start on the chart setting and adjust from there, it was probably a angle issue
>>1011092
Are the pools waiting lines to get you into the union? I know I can pass everything easily but 6G. 6G still scares my baby welding skills.
pls respond ;_;
>>1010648
>>1010648
You basically have to just get really good lol.
>>1011071
>>1011077
Electrical tape should work fine, though a self-fusing rubber wrap would be a more durable cover. Since the lugs are exposed conductors anyway, there isn't much point in insulating the ends of the leads past the point where they might touch each other. However, a wrap can protect the wire from fraying or other mechanical damage.
>>1011099
Could have been travel speed.
>>1011099
Your voltage changes depending on how far or close to the metal you are.
>>1010139
You come on here talking shit but can't even do a fucking fillet weld without heat tint.
End yourself my man.
>>1010630
That's a nice helmet but for 400~ dollarydoos you think their ergonomics would be good enough to handle overhead stick/fluxcore.
Defeats the purpose of spending all that money if you still have to keep an old pipeliner on hand just to do some overhead.
>>1010146
>i hope they NDT your wife and find a nigger inclusion
An oxygen lance is good for gouging those out.
>>1011267
Yeah but your wire stick out from the nozzle changes the amount of electricity entering the puddle.
You have to travel slower than you think as well.
>>1011297
Oh, so is it the shorter the stick out, the greater the electricity? Or the opposite?
Yeah, i'll see if I can get some practice in, I need to find something to fill in the space for a welding table
>>1011230
well here's the thing about my choice with the speedglas and the viking. it totally fit my needs in my particular job.
sidewindows- lets me see other welders walking around with hot pieces or the forklift zipping contantly around. save phace says they offer sidewindows but speedglas is truly the only one that have this.
>>1011322
Yes. Shorter stick out means higher electrical output/more heat.
Many people have stick out that's too long
>>1011324
Till the side windows need to be replaced and you waste more money.
Just lift your hood. It's that simple.
You shouldn't be welding anywhere or working anywhere a vehicle is just going to run into you nor should coworkers be in a place where they drive by staring into arc light
>>1011129
Hey man sorry I didn't respond earlier
(I'm switching from laptop to tablet constantly)
Well for learning TIG, I learned the basics in school (how to walk the cup etc)
But in the field I had to learn how to free hand it.
I'd definitely practice a lot of stainless steel (that will be your money maker) or aluminum (depending on which field you get into)
Practice your fillets and your tube passes
And research the different size cups, in school we use 4-10
In shops you'll come across 3-5 (pig tails) or microcups that's where you have to free hand your welds
If you have any more questions I'll be happy to answer them. If I miss them I apologize because there's a lot of bullshit advice in this thread which is clouding up the other posts
>>1011368
For real though.
Just save your money and rock a pipeliner with glass, fuck the plastic ones, gold lenses and and waste the money you saved over a auto darkening hood on meth and hookers like a real welder.
>>1011115
I was on the waitlist for about 1.2 years
Check with your local to see what their waitlist looks like. Each local is different
>>1011377
Did you apply to a bunch of different unions (like the ironworker, elevator guys, piledrivers etc.) or were you only interested in being a boilermaker.
Also did you know anybody in the union beforehand? Would that even help?
>>1011375
Thanks breh.
Made me realize I didn't even try walking the cup yet, doing 100% freehand at the moment.
>>1010739
>And he thinks because this is aDIY board you shouldn't need to know your shit?
>Ya that's def safe lifting an engine block with hardware "welded" to the block filled with porosity.
Yes. You should NEVER stand below the load if in any way possible wether it's an engine block at home or a 200t generator shaft rigged by the best professionals with the best equipment there is. As soon as you leave the overkill safety region the margin between know your shit and just try gets a lot smaller than you might think. Lifting an engine with rigging possibly good to 5 tons at home while standing a few m away is a question of money and not of safety. If you can afford to drop it, do it.
>there is a reason for codes and standards being enforced into our society.
Where i live you can get fired for not using the railing on stairs. Possibly good practice yes, but completely unnecessary.
This is DIY and not nuclear reactor welding.
>>1011378
it was strictly boilermakers because of my dad.
in truth I could of used my dad to get me off the list waaay sooner but I didn't want people to think the only way I got into my local is through my dad.
You don't need to be in a union to make money, fuck you can go to houston right now Fluor Daniels is hiring 300 welders rn for like 35+ an hour + per diem
>>1011409
nah man. Hard work and patience is the key to success.
>>1011414
My welds come out a lot prettier when I walk the cup, but on some parts you just don't have the room to walk it.
>>1011421
What I was implying with the codes is that I know someone on this board is going to get a little know how with a welding machine and attempt to do a large project (Container homes for example) I just want them to be safe. Getting crushed isn't fun at all.
>>1010353
If you are welding in a step method (2 lengths forward 1 length back) I'll fucken kill you.
>>1011095
Incline yourself 15 degrees away from a 90 degree relation to the joint to get a flatter profile.
Your profile is a tad too convex.
Also, try putting the heat (volts+ wirefeed speed) up just a little.
>>1010146
Holy keks I'm reusing this.
>>1008251
Stick welder mate. AC buzz box is the easiest/cheapest route in, plus no messing about with gas etc. A little DC inverter welder would be nicer but slightly more expensive. They weld much more smoothly.
Stick welding is really for thicker metal, 3mm upward really. It's a good one to learn as it's easy to get in to but difficult to really master.
MIG is easiest, but if you want to do automotive stuff then that's the route you need to take.
TIG is the cleanest process, and a skilled TIG welder will always find work, but it's expensive if you want a decent machine, and not very forgiving.
All types of welding suddenly get a lot more difficult when you progress to learning to Weld overhead, or vertical, and so on. That's the bit that separates the men from the boys :)
>>1009507
Anybody that welds as part of their job will tell you in no uncertain terms that you are completely full of shit.
Lincoln make superior machines
>>1011683
Don't be a brandfag.
You should know as well as anyone that both blue and red have put out some shit machines.
Then you have old timers that will only run shorthoods for pipe but will only TIG with Miller's etc.
>>1011683
Boilermaker here
I actually went out and bought a Miller trailblazer 325 for my contracting company lol
Lincoln makes some good machines but their consumer service is kinda iffy.
>>1011683
both have made good machines. I tend to prefer lincolns older constant current machines for SMAW than Miller's. Miller's CV machines are often pretty solid. I like Lincoln's feeder better though. I've passed FCAW, MCAW and SMAW tests enough times with both. I can't really bitch. You use what the company has and it's usually good enough if you're competent enough. This whole debate is stupider than Mac vs PC.
What I'd stay away from is ESAB though. They have some really weird engineering to their machines that makes no goddamned sense.
>>1011679
>All types of welding suddenly get a lot more difficult when you progress to learning to Weld overhead, or vertical, and so on. That's the bit that separates the men from the boys :)
I knew this and worked hard to certify in as many positions FCAW and SMAW at school and made it to vertical, but wound up in a shop that uses mostly MCAW which can only really be done flat, and has a lot of jigs for FCAW stuff. I'm probably going to lose it all over time, unless I decide to do something else. Kind of sucks. In industry they always try to weld flat when possible. Out of position welding is done most in repair, maintenance and construction. But even in construction, they will always try to assemble everything they can before erecting to avoid having too much OH joints.
>>1010405
Well I am homosex and I weld and sometimes I photo them so you'd be factually correct my good sir.
>>1011973
MAC VS PC is not a stupid debate. If you have a mac you own an objectively worse computer performance and cost wise.
Lincoln VS miller can be argued somewhat but a PC is better. That is the truth.
using 115v flux
Ive been practicing on a peice of pipe, Ive screwed with the settings allot and sometimes I can get it to lay down a weld that resembles a termite tunnel going up the side of a building.
BUT usually it seems like there is no wire going into the weld, I cant see a bead of any kind, and when Im done I looks like the pipe was removed, and the weld replaced it.
I put a magnet to the pipe to see if it was actually steel and it stuck, so no aluminum.
I got a piece of steel (not shiny) from lowers, welded it first try. Did exactly what I was doing on the other pipe.. This weld even had the ripples you see on "good" welds.
Is shiny steel (idfk if its "stainless") suppose to be a bitch to weld?
>>1012118
When you say pipe, do you mean you are just laying beads down on top of it or are you trying to weld pieces of pipe together.
For your sake I hope you aren't welding on galvanized tubing otherwise rip in peace your brain.
>>1012118
Post a pic of said steel
>>1012181
If you'd just post the fucking pic we could actually help you.
>>1012184
Ill get one in a few, Im in the middle of cleaning a floppy drive, and sourcing a power supply.
Im 95% sure this is an exhaust pipe
>>1012193
Doesn't really matter, exhaust pipes can be made out of a lot of different materials.
>>1012196
going for the picture now. Its almost midnight, so it will have to be by flashlight
>>1012196
here. Its just dirty as shit on this end.
>>1012205
That is galvanized, but don't let other anons scare you. Small amounts of smoke from it isn't gonna permanently hurt you, maybe give you metal flu fever, just keep your head out of the smoke and you will be okay. Also since it welds fine on the other metal, try turning down the wire speed and heat on the machine and trying that. If that fails, spot weld the whole thing back together
>>1012210
guy you replied to here..
To me it looks galvanized in the pictures, it is covered in a thin layer of corrosion. I took a twisted wire wheel in a grinder to it earlier and still got fuckall. It cleans up pretty decent, just cant actually get it to weld.
I did manage to weld a piece of square steel to the pipe, I hit it with a hammer several times and it wouldn't come off (the second time).
I laid this down on the square steel just for the hell of it, and then went back to the pipe and did the same thing and got nothing. just a shit line.
on the scale of 1 to shit, how does this look
>>1012211
>That is galvanized,
did I mention its upto 20 years old and has been sitting in dust the whole time? That is actually a concrete floor in the picture.
>>1011530
lmao hell no. heres a 2 step forward 1 step back. you cant tell the difference?
>>1011368
no way bro! ive had my hood 2 years now and the sides are fine.
>Just lift your hood. It's that simple.
welllll here's the thing about that. its not that simple...at all. we have 5 welders. we all are in the same area. there are times when we walk around to drop off our pieces in the same pile. there are lines, cords, wires around us. tripping hazards basically. the side windows to me are INVALUABLE. if you havent been in a high production rate fast paced environment then i understand that you dont understand. because you dont see the need or value. trust me. i took the top names in hoods and did a side by side comparison. speedglas 9100x provided everything i needed or wanted. the price was high but the value was well worth it.
if you can afford it
>You shouldn't be welding anywhere or working anywhere a vehicle is just going to run into you nor should coworkers be in a place where they drive by staring into arc light
hmmm so im going to go up to my boss and tell him exactly how to run his shop huh...man your opinion is very academic and not very practical
>>1011683
this guy
i like this guy even though i try not to be a shill for anyone. i would choose a gmaw lincoln over a gmaw miller. but i would choose a gtaw miller over a gtaw lincoln
>>1012218
Have any tips for doing open root groove joints with GMAW?
My biggest problem is getting a bead started without whiskering through the open root when I try to jump the gap.
>>1012235
you are in luck my friend. i do have some tips. my fucking fit up guy is a fucking faggot and does a half ass job sometimes because he knows i know how to deal with that fucking faggotry.
see pic related
see that fucking gap?! i'm welding dead space. on top of that im welding thick to thin. now if i go too hot, im gonna get burn through with some whiskers. but i gotta go hot enough to get penetration on the flange but be careful because i'll burn through on the resonator which is less then 3 mm thick.
so i use a lower setting but a dynamic technique. basically i use a modified version of 2 lengths forward and 1 step back. i'll start on the thicker side the flange, hold it for 1 full second slash over to the thin side for fusion(its so thin that any penetration results in blow through)for less then half a second then start again on the flange. almost like a zorro Z slash.
so for you i assume that the open groove joint will have a thin landing. your settings will reflect welding material as thick as your LANDING. so your root will be your lowest settings. very slight pause on the sides and fast across the middle. also start on a feathered tack.
if your settings are too hot or wfs is too high then you will simply add whiskers.
>>1012239
Cheers.
With properly dialed down settings and starting on feathered tacks it'll go much smoother.
>>1012213
How good is your ground?
>>1012252
very old and corroded
how good of a trade would this be to get into? would being an electrician be better?
>>1012268
There are like a thousand different answers for these questions.
if I want something like a 4 foot x 5 foot panel of 1/8 inch steel.. where would I get that and would it cost a shitload?
>>1012181
>It doesnt look galvanized.. how bad and how fast does that fuck up someones brain?
It doesn't. Zinc poisoning is an acute (as in not chronic) condition that can make you feel like you have a bad case of the flu. if you're exposed to zinc fumes regularly, you build up a tolerance in a few days, but avoiding zinc for a few days causes the tolerance to vanish. So people with occupational exposure often get it on Mondays. Now, if it's plated with something other than zinc, it might be actually dangerous, which is why welding/grinding mystery metal should be done with care.
>>1012268
Depends on your goals and your local market.
>>1012296
Steel distributor.
Nah.
>>1012296
You can order it from a steel supplier. If you're not used to buying mild steel it will probably come across as expensive but not ridiculous (for ridiculous try pricing aluminum or stainless). That's rather big for scrap or cutoffs, but you might get lucky if you check with local fab shops, which might let you buy it at scrap rather than new price.
>>1012298
>>1012302
Yea, checked a couple sites.. there are only a couple places around here that I MIGHT be able to get it, and they refuse to list prices on their site.. I dont think one of them is even in business and the others are just "fabricators".
I just want a think ass lock box to keep shit in.. at the prices Ive seen for premade ones it looks like it will be cheaper to go that route.
Thought diy was suppose to be cheaper wtf
>>1012307
>they refuse to list prices on their site
You call for a quote. If you're making a box from that 4x5 panel, they may have cutoffs of a suitable size.
>Thought diy was suppose to be cheaper wtf
Economies of scale. The manufacturer has bulk discounts on material and dedicated logistics. DIY is less about beating mass production on price and more about custom work and saving on labor costs. And as for custom work, check the sheet thickness of those premade boxes. They're probably not 1/8".
>>1010316
>>1010325
I'd do it this way myself, just to ensure long life and not having any risk of accident, or needing to remake/repair down the line.
>I'm a mild fan of overkill in small doses on stuff like this
Any aussies in here? I'm in the running for a fabricating/welding apprenticeship. What's the difference between a fabricator/welder and boilermaker in the aussie system?
Taking a $9 pay cut if i get/accept this job, but seems like the ideal job for me.
>>1012313
The parts you reinforced in red are solid allready.
Id also add braces here just to increase the contact points for the loop to the handle.
>>1012313
That's probably the worst spot for diagonals. Compared to what I mentioned >>1010325, that has twice the pieces and welds, and instead of a structure that is fully triangulated under load, that places bending stress on the flat bar in its weak direction in multiple spots.
Do the blue Ls at the bottom indicate bending the end of the vertical pieces under the horizontal pieces? Because that's actually a weaker joint, it would be difficult to bend without a hydraulic press brake, and it would prevent the tongs from having a large flat stable base like the pictured one.
>>1012322
The additional braces here are unnecessary, bordering on structurally useless (if it bends under load, that's not stiffening it in the direction it will bend). But if you want to add some there, be sure to attach them to the outside of the half-rings so the crucible can still sit on top.
>>1012307
1/8 mild steel isn't supposed to be expensive.
Hell if it's for a box like this you could even make it out of 1/16 or something.
how bad are welder fumes? and do people get sick often from them?
>>1012334
>The additional braces here are unnecessary
Im thinking more along the lines of when this things starts to break, he probably doesnt want a pot of boiling metal falling with it.
You can have the ring held on with 2 welds, or 6. Id feel better with 6.
>>1012316
Boilermakers do more "advanced" welding and have to undertake special tests to get certified to weld stuff (pipelines and boilers) that get pressurised. I believe its more specialised and higher pay grade but I don't know much more apart from that.
>>1012371
Depends. If you're working around zinc/galvanized and you're not careful it's gonna fuck you up.
When welding aluminum there's a possibility of getting sick from the ozone but most of the time is just annoying. Most of the other stuff is more of a long term thing as far as I know.
Just wear your fucking respirator.
how can i make the most money out of being a welder im talkin 100k a year
>>1012396
Be a pipeliner.
Do shutdowns all the time.
>>1012254
It might be that, try to get a piece of mild steel and try again
>>1012380
>You can have the ring held on with 2 welds, or 6. Id feel better with 6.
OK, but only two of those are going to be load-bearing, and if the tongs start to break, it's not going to break there. The rings will move down and out as the vertical pieces bend before the ring itself will bend, and those diagonals won't prevent that. FYI, the flat bar pieces will be more than forty times stiffer in the wide direction than in the thin direction. Consider which way the parts in question are being loaded and which way those diagonals would be stiffening them.
