Ok so i want to make some chainmail, but i dont want to have this gap thing that most modern chainmail has inbetween each circle, so how do i take my chainmail to the next level without sacrificing durability (making a solid loop)?
cut rings with extra length => hammer ends => drill through both flats => rivet
Or Use a jewelers saw and then solder each ring. The next levels are more durable
>>1005460
easiest method is for a cheap additive welder, an high temp adjustable grip, and the right metal rods. Make like normal, vise, spark, move to next link, repeat
>>1005460
spot welder and pliers. remember that you can weld shut half the rings before you assemble.
The traditional method was to hammer the ends of the loop flat, make them overlap, and rivet them together.
do a search for "riveted" or "wedge" mail.
also, punched rings (half being solid links)
>>1005460
Why not go for scale instead of chain?
Also if its the gaps you're concerned with, 8-in-2 weave.
also called Kings' mail. Used on collars of standards, and the likes.
expect weight to double.
>>1005460
The shape of the gap of the ring depends on the tool you use and method of fastening it.
Personally, I use a spot welder.
>>1006148
Christ 4chan, why won't you upload anything?
>try #5
>>1006147
Forgot one.
>>1005636
The gaps have more to do with the aspect ration of the ring. If you made E4-1 with an AR of 3.2 or something it'd turn out a lot like E8-2 at AR 5.0 or whatever in terms of negative space.
OP, the best results will come from welding, riveting, or soldering (if using a cupric alloy). If you don't want to do any of these you can minimize the seams by using a jeweler's saw to cut the rings, or you can use the score-and-break method with snips.
>>1006858
I was going to do riveting as it seemed like the stronfest option but im considering spot welding it now for the sake of time. However I'm kind of questioning the historical accutacy of this so I'll probably just do the riveting method where only the end of each loop is flattened
>>1006921
You definitely want to decide how important historical accuracy is to your work because riveting can easily double your build time at least. If you just want more strength then welding should be fine. If you just want the seams to be less noticeable then use saw-cut rings.
>>1006949
Shit dude, riveting increases build time by at least 10 times. That fastest is to cut with a saw/die grinder and spot weld. Soldering with a blowtorch will be a bit slower than welding but will make for a much smoother ring.
>>1005460
It won't even be close to being historical, but you could use split rings. Worthco sells split rings by the pound.
If you can devise a jig that'll pry the rings open, then you could make your mail really quickly (and save your fingers from aching as well)
>>1007292
>If you can devise a jig that'll pry the rings open, then you could make your mail really quickly (and save your fingers from aching as well)
you can buy pliers designed to open split rings from theringlord.ocm.
>>1007398
Problem solved.
>>1005460
>what is riveted maille
>>1006151
>the weld can snap
Toppest of keks
>posting a pic of latest project
my boyfriend and I worked on it together. I'm teaching him how to maille, this is his second bracelet/project. This is one of two bracelets to be given as a wedding gift.
>>1009053
>Toppest of keks
We are talking about durability and ultimate failure of the ring under optimal stresses. Yes the weld can snap. Especially when you are fighting in it during full contact sports.
Use washers and split rings.
>>1005460
Try dragonscale mail
