>>1003071

You either:

A.) Pulled the cable out of the crimp. In that case, not really your fault; that should have been essentially impossible to do. Stuff it back in and crimp it better.

B.) Pulled the contact out of the housing. Again, not your fault if you were able to do it; Anderson plugs lock in once assembled and shouldn't be able to come loose without deliberate effort. See if the pawl that holds the contact in is okay and push it back in if it is.

C.) Pulled the insulation back on the cable. Yet again, shouldn't really have been possible unless it was cut too far back in the first place. Cover it with some suitable tape and it should be alright.

>>1003076
thank you for your response. I was trying to push it back in before I closed the store, but I'm not sure if I accomplished anything. As far as I could tell, I couldn't at this point easily pull the cable or anything else from the connector. The black cable just jiggles a lot, and I can see copper which I don't like. Any tips on a fix?

>>1003076
Oh and I should have added, from my brief experience before I got frustrated and went home, situation A seems most likely

>>1003080
Don't drive it till you are sure its solidly crimped or you may have a fire under your chair due to a bad connection. If its on the battery side for goodness sake lift a terminal before you start playing. If it is part of a high current charge circuit I hope their isn't smoke coming out if it right now.

>>1003071

Classic Home Depot.

>>1003087
HA, actually a large competitor paint-wise. But my store is small, and I'm the 'capable' mechanic/electrician/maintenance 'tech'. Any tips?

>>1003088

You'll have to disconnect the huge fucker of a battery and open up the plastic housing to survey the damage. You might be able to set the cable back in place.

>>1003088

if you were so capable you would have fixed it by now.. also protip DONT PULL ON THE WIRES DIPSHIT

>>1003076
We have B happen a lot. Because we have morons pulling on wires. Sometimes we can wiggle them back together till the repair guy gets there.

We had one yale that the plug sat rather deep in, and the wires was the only thing that could be grabbed. I saw to it that a handle was bolted on so there was no more reason for it. Had to grind the opening a little bit to make the handle work, but never happened to that machine again. Still happens to the wall chargers a lot because morons.

>>1003088
no idea but I can rent you one for dirt cheap.

I could use a new account to start the month off.

>>1003078
Just call it in for service, you obviously work for a big chain that doesnt give a fuck.
Protip: I'm one of those service guys that charges way to much when I go to big chain locations.

>>1003863
agree with this guy. also if you fuck with it you may be liable for what happens. tag it out and get someone who is qualified to fix it.

>>1003071

a lot of current goes through that, since you are far too retarded to use the connector properly, you are clearly far too retarded to repair it.

moron

ty, i learned its is caled an "anderson connector" today.

>>1003071
You done goofed! Also post picture of actual connector with fault.

>>1003274
>because morons.

I'd say it's a shitty design

>not a fork lift operator

>>1004202
The connector design is excellent and proven. Mongs can break anything.

The appropriate handle should have been used in that application. They are only a few dollars. I use Andersons for all sorts of connections, but I'm not retarded.

>>1004658

IMO you can't call a lay a mong just because he didn't use the device according to manual

it's like saying you're not responsible for that dropped database or leaked client data because that one user didn't use your website according to the terms of use

crimp comes loose routinely? add a snap cover over the crimp.
crimp comes undone routinely? solder the crimp or make it a serrated screw on crimp.

Disclaimer: I am routinely berated about overengineering things.

>>1003071
just keep in mind that most accidents in working places happen because people covered up broken pieces of equipment

I've had situation A & B happen to me. A was because I used too big of a crimp for the wire and B was due to a forklift yanking on it by accident.

Those fuckers are hard to remove. Something to note, you can't zap yourself with a battery unless you touch both leads. So pull it out and replace the crimp. If you can disconnect it from the source, that's better.

I've worked with battery cyclers and we've gotten away with a lot of shit like that.

>>1004674
The crimp is inside the grey plastic. If only the two grey halves are grabbed and pulled when unplugging, it never fails. When pulling on the wires, the crimp will eventually come out of the the plastic housing. We're talking about machines that every person using it are trained on everything including how to plug and unplug. They know they shouldn't do it because it causes damage. Yes we can blame them. Just like you would blame the guy who decided your rear bumper will bring him to a stop at the red light instead of using his brakes. He was taught the correct way to prevent damage.

Cables are basically impossible to make solid.
Crimps do a good job biting onto the insulation, but in the end, it's not biting onto a whole lot.

I would never pull the cable of a connector used in industrial settings.

>>1004779

This. And if you have several people using that forklift, that is bound to happen sooner or later.

The electrics I used in the Service (USAF) all had metal housings (insulated inside) which were easily disassembled.

Story - Once, someone caused situation "B" (from >>1003076). Supervisor went over to grab forklift off charger. He disconnects charger and contacts fall out of connector and touch. It singed his eyebrows and he saw spots for half the shift.