How do I keep motivated? I have done the electrical, insulation, tore our and redid the kitchen, plumbing, but this fucking drywall is killing me. It's my first time and after my first total retarded wall it isnt nearly as bad, but it takes so fucking long and then you have to sand and sand I just want to fucking leave it.
Holy shit I am never doing this again.
Just think about the money you're saving and the result in the awesome.
>>1001832
God I guess. Looking at what people charge for this its crazy. The kitchen actually almost looks decent, but I have to do the flooring still, but trying to get all the walls done before I bother with floor and trim because of this little shit.
Trying to build a fucking 400 liner foot fence at the same time as well. Holy shit its like so many projects I just want to shitpost and relax a while ;w;
I'm in the same boat, replacing old shitty plasterboard and wood sheating. I have a few shit spots and have to take my time in some areas with cardboard shims and a 12 pack. It looks to me like you're doing too many cuts and need to just slow down and fill larger areas as you're going to have to do a shitload of taping as such.
>>1001848
At least I am at the end of what I can do for now. I have to redo the fucking stairs to fit a washer/dryer underneath them then get a few extra inches for the bathroom to not be a coffin.
Little A-frame house I got as my first place.
I didnt even know about not putting butt joints to tapered joints. My first wall was a fucking monster. I actually got it looking pretty damn good, then my wife got retarded drunk and decided to paint it. Covered the roller in sawdust while she did so D: D: D: textured wall now.
Oh god I just need to keep at it. Thanks for responses
>>1001830
I've heard two schools of thought: 1) put the mud on thick and then it'll be easier to make look flat when you sand it - more room for error; and 2) the less you put on the less sanding you have. I also despise drywall, and once I got a clue about it I've always used option 2.
![182768856-beige-tuscan-plaster-wall-with-grid-texture-gettyimages[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/71tzC0a.jpg "182768856-beige-tuscan-plaster-wall-with-grid-texture-gettyimages[1].jpg")
>>1001866
>1) put the mud on thick and then it'll be easier to make look flat
Negative ghost rider. If you put it on thick it will crack and fall off. Especially the screw holes. They may not pop off today but they will pop off. You're going to want to use thin coats. And the more cuts the more tape and likely visible seams. There's only so much spray wall texture can hide. You may even want to do the rustic plaster look.
I just hire mexicans to do drywall. It's a nightmare.
>>1001939
>I just hire mexicans to do drywall. It's a nightmare.
very reasonable.
It's a great thing to Know how to do, but even a dedicated DIYer should be able to see the benefits of knowing when it is a savings of money, time and sanity to bring in a specialist or group of specialists. Get a couple of guys who know what they are doing and finish the area in an afternoon or a day instead of living in the middle of a construction zone for two months while you manage to snatch half an hour here and there to get everything out, do part of something, then put it away every evening.
I do this shit professionally. You generally want to work with as large prices as possible. You should have put a full piece across the window staring from the left wall and coming down from the ceiling. Cut out what is blocking window, save that piece you cut for later you may be able to use it. Also the dimensions of a full piece is 4x8. When hanging it, it goes onto the wall landscape. 4 foot down from ceiling, 8 foot run. Mudding is easy you just have to have the correct size trowels, there is no putting it on thin or thick. You build it up in "coats". You also can taper joint to butt joint, it just takes a little longer to mud, otherwise there is no difference in difficulty. It's not efficient to do it that way is all. Your final layer of mud should have a trowel that runs from the top rigde of tapered joint to tapered joint. I just learned a no sand technique as well. You wet sponge it after it has some time to set but not fully dry. The same kind of sponge you would use on grout, not some kind of kitchen bull shit. For the screwholes, I do three coats and then wet sand. Each time you apply a coat you scrape your trowel at a 90° up or down. That ensures the hole is filled to rim, because it shrinks as it dries and keeps minimal mud on wall so when you wet sand it 'blends' easier. Also why you build up the joints. You do the same thing with corner beads, blend mud from the tip with your final pass of the trowel covering from tip of bead to about 6+ inches back.
lmao rip thread
>>1001957
To add to what this guy says, many times the ceiling will be a little more than 8 feet. Maybe an inch, maybe a foot. Especially in older homes. So you need to put an extra strip of drywall in there to make up the gap right? DO NOT put it up near the ceiling. Makes it a fucking nightmare to mud. Put it in the middle of the two runs of drywall. So 4 feet from the floor.
>>1001830
Im a white man who sheet rocks.if you didnt already know.. You can score a line down the paper side with a box cutter and put a little palm pressure to snap it along said line.
When your mudding. Slop a little extra into the two pieces of sheet rock joining. Take your paper and fold the tag end in half so you get a v shape about a foot down. Then you can just hoist the paper from the floor to the edge of the ceiling and get it to stick up there. Then take your taping knife and from the center of the wall down. Press just enough to get the excess to squeeze out past the paper and carry it to the floor. Then get on a ladder and go from center up. Clean up any excess mud.
Done. Easy peezy.
>>1001830
been a plasterer for 5 years.
the best way to dryline is to not use the paper tape on the flat joints but use skrim tape instead only use paper tape on the reveals and angles. this saves loads of time because the skrim tape lets the plaster into the joint more and its self adhesive. also you should use use a layer of joint compound then wait for it to set then go over it again with a thin coat of normal multi finish plaster too get a proper finish.
>>1003502
You need to get yourself some skrim tape mate fuck stick tape on with compound all day.
>>1003520
Not him, but good luck with that shit cracking, paper tape isn't even hard to apply anyway.
>>1003520
Everyone uses if they are a decent standard dryliner or plaster you don't know what you're talking about mate. It's faster too apply and if you actually plaster the joint correctly it won't crack.
