Me and my gf both love bugs. We'd like to raise some larvae into beetles, moths, etc. in our free time and taxidermize them when they pass on. Any fellow entomology buffs here that can recommend me books or pointers about this? I really have no idea where I would start.
if you use an arduino with enough outputs (20) then you can drive the 10 segments of each nixie directly, without any decoder. so you can do it by driving 20 high-voltage transistors using the trick shown here.
more info at http://renaud.schleck.free.fr/nixie.php
I want to make a Extremely fast & powerful flash for highspeed photography. --- a "air-gap" flash, but using LED's
Is there something that can be programmed to release power for a set amount of time, from an input of a "ping" of voltage?
Full story i guess - i Have a Miops (sound/light trigger) for my flashes [which totally suck because they emit light for too long/ aren't very bright] via external 2.5mm to PC sync cable. I've also made a DIY 100W LED chip light, I want to have the Miops turn on the LED chip(s) On for 0.0004... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
you can certainly do this with wiringpi if you're able to use google and copy and paste simple code. i can't be arsed to read up on the miops so i'll assume that it effectively bridges connections when triggered. you'll want to connect the miops across the 3v rail and a gpio pin so that it can be read as input. you'll then want to connect a suitable relay across the 3 or 5v rail and gnd, using another gpio pin as the trigger. i would assume that an arduino could be used too or even a 555 timer chip if you want to really simplify it.
>>971385 Dude, even normal "slow, not very bright" xenon flashes have their peak powers measured in tens or hundreds of kilowatts. Air gap flashes use even higher peak powers. Sure, LEDs can produce more light per watt, but even then, a 100W LED running at 100W isn't going to do jack shit. You probably need to compromise on light output and still need lots of LEDs, overloaded brutally. Your electronics design problems will revolve around the LED drivers, their power supplies and the LEDs themselves, not around... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I've been thinking of hooking up an electric motor to my bike. I wanted to buy this setup, however. My intuition is telling me that this gear ratio is absolute shit. What do you guys think? Would this be a viable option for an electric bike?
It will not work. I am an RC enthusiast and have been building planes from balsa and glass fibre for 20+ years. Epoxy alone does hardly add any strength. Use it to laminate glass fibre sheets, and you are heading into the right direction. But it is difficult to get the glass fibres around the edges. I recommend plywood for a wooden case. If you stick with the balsa/glass fibre/epoxy way, be informed that you need at least 2-3 attempts before the result looks about right.
I am planning to build a podium like pic related and wanted to use a frame and lighter wood because money. The podium bill pretty much be exactly this in different wood and with frame below. What wood should I use?
so, bought one of these little bastards a while back going to build a frame and motorise it mused at the thought of cutting it down the edges of the bonnet and around the windscreen and extending it then fibreglassing it using the shape to make the body wider
but trying to find a frame small enough is a bit of an issue, i want to utilise the steering wheel kind of design, i would really like to put the engine in the front and run a driveshaft to the back, but i dont feel like over engineering this is the way to go about it,
but in the way of weight... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>971055 You're building a gokart. A cheesy and over complicated one but a gokart none the less. You're in for a bunch of fabrication. Your motor will likely end up being a horizontal shaft honda clone. Your "gearbox" will end up being a torque converter. Your drive shaft will end up being a long chain.
You say you don't want to over engineer it. You are are. Go to gokart forums and start poking around. Once you have questions about doing specific things come back here and ask.
Ignoring the April 1st theme joke and that probably no one is gonna see my post:
I have some standard aluminum cans (coca cola, redbull etc.) and I want to do something interesting with them, so I need some kind of light corrosive liquid that will slightly damage them/fuck up the pictures on the can if I let them soak in it. What should I use? Is there something that I can get over the counter in a drug store? Preferably the cheaper the better.
What alternatives are there to velcro? I want something that will hold my light timber case against the back of a monitor and have the ability to remove said case for some tinkering any time I please. It doesn't have to be terribly strong, only as strong or stronger than velcro.
There is a Dual Lock velcro-like product (also 3M I think?) that is comprised of plastic pegs that interlock to bond. Both sides are the same, unlike traditional velcro, and pretty strong. In an industrial application I found that it was stronger than the paint/finish on the wall when you don't pull it properly.
Have you considered interfacing with the VESA mounts on the back of the monitor? (if your particular monitor does not already use them for the stand)
I use the 3M wall strips with the velcro - like side. The package should tell you the weight it's rated for. I use the small ones to keep my cats out of the kitchen cabinets. They aren't as strong as the day I installed them but they still take some force before releasing. They're sold at wally world or any hardware store.
Hey /diy/, This may be something a bit more inclined to an art board, but since it's not really about making the art but coming up with different media it might fit here.
I currently work in ceramics, and have been experimenting with new and unusual clay types, such as a range of red to black to blue. Lately I've been looking at weird or wacky inclusions or even levels of material in the clay itself. What sorts of materials might you guys suggest to try in test tiles as inclusions? Currently I'm working with a fairly plain base of 45 OM4, 40 Hawthorne... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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