Have a look at the picture. Let's say the red box is a button. What kind of mechanism would be needed to push the two blue boxes outward when the button is pushed down, but allow it to retract to its original position once pressure was removed?
I have been looking for some time to make a 3d printer but lack of materials like ABS printed pieces or wood cutting habilities..Also knowledge.. sooo I wondered if I could manage to make a small 3d printer to make pieces for a bigger one using Kennex for start. I know I will have to spend some money for motors and an stuff, but try to be as less as possible. To move the motors don't know what to use. I was thinking about using Arduino to mount the motors cause i google it but not sure if it's the best option.
>>994902 It has been done, It took 3 sec to look it up in a search engine ; https://3dprint.com/11001/mec-nex-3d-printer-k-nex/
I've read something about using stepper motors from old regular printers and stuff like that but the printbed and the hotend are huge issues when you're making a 3d printer yourself from low cost materials. Its also more difficult to calibrate.
So you'll most likely end up with low quality prints either way.
I want to fence in a small area (about 3'x4') and have one of the sides of the fence be completely removable. What would be a good type of fastener to use for the removable side? The side needs to be secure when attached but relatively easy to remove. I can't just use a hinge because I want to completely remove the side of the fence, not just open it. I'm sure there's something out there, I just don't know what the proper term to search for is.
>>994868 >slots Thanks, that seems feasible. Maybe I could even cut the slots like an upside down L shape and have dowels coming out of the removable side so I could slide it in from the side and then down rather than having the slide it all the way up and down.
>>994781 you can use the car engine and alternators, assuming 1 on the engine plus two more in place of the PS pump and AC that's 3kW +/- losses at 12VDC, you can then feed this into an inverter, the efficiency will drop to 65%, so you now have 2kW of usable electricity.
the car engine wont last long on a low load for very long with stock tuning, you'll want to lean the mixture out and adjust the timing to de-tune it so it produces all the required power(10hp) at 1,500rpm and nothing more.
forget the turbine,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Looks really nice. And only 999 USD, sounds like a killer deal for a poorfag like me. However it seems that the shipping to Finland costs 200USD and the import tax is gonna be around 300EUR. The only European vendor (that ships to Finland) is in Denmark and while the shipping is lower, they sell the Sparkfun version for 1600EUR and the customs will still bite me in the ass.
What options do I have? Can I bring the price down reasonably by sourcing as much parts as I can in my country? Is it even possible? They tout the project as "Open Source" but I'm... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
It includes a spindle motor so that already makes it a better value than the shapeoko in that regard; the downside is that the electronics are dated, you need a true parallel port to control it or one of those usb to parallel motion controllers (generic usb to serial... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>994537 >>994578 Thanks for the insight. The 3040 seems like the best bet, although it seems that I could build a Shapeoko2 and upgrade it to X-Carve for really cheap. Alas, it appears that Shapeoko2 has been made as hard as possible to get/build now that 3 is out.
The project manager seems to be in full damage control mode in the Sparkfun comments section and makes it sound like it totally is open guys but I can't help but to feel fishy.
I'll look... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Wd40 didn't work. Bust a nut didn't work. Freeze off didnt work. Damaged nut remover just peeled the crome cover off it. Hammering slighltly under sized sockets on was a waste of time. I even tried drilling the threads so i could peel the nut apart. That didnt really work but it did seem to allow lubricant to get where it is needed and it turned with a hammered on socket but only until the two edges made by the drilling met.
Clearly I am not conceened with the lug or the nut at this point. Id like to not fuck... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
find a large nut that the ID barely fits around the toasted nut. align it over the screwed up nut. weld the inner part of the new nut to the old messed up nut. the heat will help with the removal and you have a good nut to grab with a socket.
I own a house over 110 years old. I've had to replace 5 windows. They are stiff and I'd like to get some handle for them so they are easier to open.
PIC related is what I have elsewhere in the house on some french doors. I'd like to find something identical or at least similar. I've been looking around ebay but no luck. Does an /diy/er have a good source for old handles?
>>993936 The 5 windows in question where replaced 1.5 years ago. They are stiff because springs in the sides press against the window. This is a Good Thing as it creates a tight seal, preventing hot air from getting out.
>>993712 >Is Raspberry Pi my best option? It's overkill for the type of project you're describing and will be more difficult than Arduino or other microcontrollers (PIC, ARM, etc). A PI is a full fledged computer where you write software that goes on top of an OS. That gives you some nice features like a file system and multitasking, but now you've got to deal with getting the OS configured to let you use GPIO pins, launch your program on startup, etc. It also draws a lot of power... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I visited a friend who works at a pet store today, and while checking out the new fishies that had came in I made the decision to either save up for a simple aquarium or build one myself.
Constructing the aquarium doesn't appear to be that difficult; however, it's a personal project and if it doesn't work, it doesn't work. Most of the simpler builds just look like simple plate glass net + silicone sealant. That's what I'll be going on.
The dimensions I'm looking at for my build are 750mm x 300mm x 350mm, which would give me about... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
10mm is pretty heavy glass, you can usually get by with 5-6mm, but if you're down to using whatever you can grab I guess it'll do. Problem with the tall, narrow tanks is they're both a bit of a shit to clean and its sometimes hard to fit gear like filters and powerheads in them, don't forget a lid as well to bounce any fish that get airborne in them.
A group of people and me really like building and shooting slingshots like this one. We mostly craft them from wood and metal. Do you have any ideas what (non-obvious) material or manufacturing technique we can also use?
>>993694 joergsprave on youtube is fairly entertaining. Guess when it comes to materials its a case of cost vs effectiveness really, or if you're after a certain look. Both brass and aluminium are nice, easy materials to work with (just not together- they eat each other) and some tropical hardwoods look pretty nice when given a good polish.
The console is constantly polling that shift register, reading the state of the button. There's nothing magic going on. You just need what you're doing to look the same as a button press to that chip.
Tie common together between the NodeMCU board and the controller board and connect some wires from the GPIO pins to the high side of the button pad. Then just think of a momentary switch as two toggle switches back to back with a time delay between-- pull it low, wait, pull it high again. This is the easy part of what you're trying to do.
so I'm about to start restoring a bicycle very much like pic related, mainly the frame made from socialist steel.
How do I go about painting it properly? It has old paint on it and some rust. I already have a decent steel surface paint remover so that's sorted out and a steel brush end for a tool to do away with the rust.
From there I'm kinda lost. I figure: an anti-rust ground paint - one layer, second layer, sand with 12000 grit, apply final paint 1st coat and then second coat and it's done. Would this be the proper course of action?
I'm getting into making my own loot crates. Kind of a middle-ground between gifting people something that is both home-made and not worthless. You know, for Christmas, Halloween, etc.
Thus far I've made a few rough prototypes like pic related with themes like Resident Evil. As far as materials go, I've done everything from hit up the 99 cent store to digging around in my junk drawer.
So I'm looking to trade up in materials and brainstorming. Doing things like getting properly-shaped boxes from online, printing out labels/stickers,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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