>>1001504 PWM, perhaps via an Arduino and maybe a solid state relay, might do the trick. An additional advantage to using a programmable microcontroller is that you should be able to schedule it without too much difficulty.
this is one of my first times working with resin, im using easy cast brand resin.
So im trying to encase a cicada in some resin, i mixed the hardener half and half with the resin as the directions told me. i have it all set up in a plastic mold, and everything going good, but i felt the side of the plastic, and the resin is really really hot. Is this normal?
>>1001467 It is normal that quick-curing resins get warm. Also, casting large blocks (high volume to surface area ratio) makes them run hotter. Your cicada corpse might have some effect as well. I hope you vacuumed the bubbles out.
>>1001471 the bottom part that i set the cicada in hardened a little too much, so the top half has a lot of bubbles whereas the bottom is perfectly clear, i ran a hair dryer over it, which got rid of a good bit of the bubbles, but there are a lot that are too deep it seems for the drier to affect
My brother's birthday is coming up and i want to find clever and annoying ways to give him amazon giftcards that add up to a large sum of money. I was thinking of putting one in a bar of soap and hiding another on in a big box filled with gift card look alikes and packing peanuts. any more suggestions?
I'm setting up my car for a huge camping/driving trip and want to take plenty of water, but obviously optimise space as well.
Pic related is one solution, it is generic to fit the rear footwell of a vehicle, only problems are that it costs 300 kangaroo dollars, and only holds 40L. Preferably I would like to carry around 100L,just to be safe. If would also help out with weight distribution. I was thinking about welding up something similar out of steel plate. If so, should I line it somehow to make it suitable for drinking water? Could I pour in a couple of litres of paint then slosh it around?
I bought this lighter at an estate sale for 2 bucks based purely on its look and the name. Its from a now defunct company called Swank and is from the 70's. Is there any way to replace the Flint and put more butane in this? I don't really know about this stuff but I wanna see this thing light because it looks so cool. I'll be posting more pictures of the components.
Apologize for shit tier quality, but this is the bottom of the lighter. The hole is where the butane goes in. The paper that came with the lighter said that you need an adapter to put non-swank butane into it. The screw thing next to the lighter hole is where the flint comes out
This is the Flint. I think it's pretty much spent because no sparks come when I click the lighter, but I could just be retarded. Do they sell Flint in this style anymore? Can I just go to the store and buy a normal Zippo/bic Flint? Will I have to jerry-rig Flint into this casing?
>>1001690 Took me a lot of sawdust to get this trick right. Superglue. Sand down to 1000 grit, burnish with sawdust if you are inclined then take a paper towel and fold it as a pad then apply liquid not gel cyano to the piece at medium rpm and spread it smooth. You have to be careful about it hardening from heat while the towel is on it or you'll get paper bits. I implore you to give this a go, it's cheap and gives good results with a bit of practice.
I will be moving to a 118"x118" room next month. It has a 32" door, 36" window, and tiny closet with about 12" depth. The only piece of furniture I know I will have so far is my forever alone 75" x 38" x 14" bed frame. I have so many books, computer parts, miscellaneous cables, and DVD/VG/AudioCDs I will probably ditch all of my furniture and custom build a computer desk and shelving. I will have access to miter saw, sander, and drill power tools. It would be neat to have a router and routing table to make fancy shelving, but I don't have that luxury. I have seen 1"x4"/6"/8" wood at HD and Lowes but it looks super expensive compared to rough cut standard 2"x4" boards. Does anyone have hobo build shelving / computer desk designs for people on a budget?
if you have a menards nearby, they sometimes have melamine boards (I think they're 1x8) on rebate really cheap...I've used them to make shelving units, and with supports in the form of 1x3 strips under each shelf, they hold up pretty well
of course, it would be much simpler to just use whatever cheap dimensional lumber you can get your hands on
if you can get some pallets, you could make storage cubes and stack them
otherwise the dirt cheap option would mean making a couple frames with 1x2s or so, and using strips of osb as shelves, not pretty,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Sounds like a dorm room. Make a deck (platform) with your bed bunked above it. You can put a couch or futon on the deck easily, storing stuff under the deck. Add shelving to the bunk is easy. Use bolts if you're going to put it up and take it down a few times. It will cost more upfront but screws are less reliable after an iteration or 2. If this is long term "never" taken down structure, then screws are fine.
For plans, Google dorm room lofts or bunk beds. Should have lots of inspiration. If you deck other parts of the room then you get more storage.
Pick... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Any ideas for stretching out a pvc pipe to 2-3x its diameter? Think of sort of a large reducing adapter, with one end being the original pipe size and it growing out in a bell shape to the larger diameter.
(The heating would be done with a heat gun.)
Ideally I would love to be able to mount it on a lathe, and turn/spin it to stretch and size it....but that's a bit over budget.
The current plan is just to mount it in a vise and use a rod to bend the shape outward, or clamp the rod and bend the pipe around it.
Someone else was asking about milk... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hello /diy/, this is my first time here, I come from /pol/, but they are useless for what I need help with. I hope you guys can give me some good pointers.
There is this gap at the bottom of my sliding door and it appears that the door is not resting properly along the floor railings. I was alerted to it the other day when a rather large and intimidating beetle that I had noticed earlier banging against the glass from the outside suddenly and quite horrifically appeared within my house while I was trying to play my Xbox.
> I am not safe
I'm... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1001254 Damn, you ARE from /pol/. Trump picture, and bumping 4 minutes after posting? Always suspected you guys had reading comprehension issues...
>Read the sticky, again
You could try spray foam, assuming the gap is against the door that doesn't slide, but I've seen some pests chew through that. Have you looked at it from outside to see if there's a way to attach a piece of flashing that way, with sheet metal screws perhaps? Or even just with adhesive of some sort?
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