What is this? It's connected to a coaxial cable. I found it in the box outside. There don't appear to be center pins in the sleeve thing and the end with the thread. I was thinking it was a spacer to turn off the cable but the end bit that's threaded makes no sense. Anyone know what this is.
Can anyone recommend me a non destructive way to clean surface rust of items? I have some archaeological finds I want to clean. The only thing I want to do is clean off some of the rust while preserving patina and remaining traces of wood.
I looked at some detectorist sites and the methodes seem shit.
>Wire brush and wd40 >Sand blast it! >Soak it in Acid.
I don't think you understand what a patina is. But anyway if the items are valuable don't do anything except maybe clean off the dirt. If they're tools soak in white vinegar or rust off. Probably just do the former if they're "archaeological" and have some significance as it sounds like you're going to fuck them up as you still have to have some preservation plan after you clean them.
If you're just cleaning off some old arrowheads you dug out of a field because you want them to look nicer in a shadow box in your den they make non-acid rust removers intended for restoration of rusty old vintage shit. One example:
If they're more rust than iron you don't clean them at all.
>>1000955 Unless you have a crank operated welding station that's impossible. Ammo box will get red hot, fume all the paint off, and will rust after a couple of weeks. That's one of the most stupid things I've heard.
The ideal thing to start with would be a thick gas tank, but it would still require some welding unless you want to die of carbon monoxide poisoning. It is also recommended to powder coat it to prevent rust and so it doesn't looks like you've stolen it from some inbreed gypsy's... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
55 gallon steel drum - one lid attached, one spare lid. I could build a stove out of these with hand tools. So you get the drum, preferably one that hasn't housed anything too volatile and preferably with the paint coming off. You have four problems. 1) You want to light a fire in it outside to cook the paint and anything trapped in the pores of the steel off. We'll get back to this later though... 2) The drum will be oriented length-wise above the ground - it needs legs. Source some kind of metal stand. 3) The front opening - to feed in wood. You need... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I was thinking about how springs can be used to fly, and I realised that a bunch of cups on a spring would squeeze air out in such a way as to create thrust as a compression wave travelled through the spring, and those waves could in turn be created with sound.
I'd try and simulate this but I have no software to do that, so does /diy/ think it'd work? And would there be a better way than a one-way valve of getting the cups to not suck themselves backwards when refilling with air? Since the idea of this is to make a strange yet easily built aircraft, and... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hey /diy/ what is useful knowledge for working in a hardware store?
my local home hardware has a sales assistant position open and I'm hoping to get it so I can pay the bills, but I don't know shit about tools (no dad around to teach me). I googled training videos, but there wasn't much on offer.
>>1003074 >but I don't know shit about tools Not a problem, I've never met a hardware store employee that knew shit about anything they sold. Most of your job will probably be knowing what shit is in which aisle.
>>1003079 So there's nothing I can do to increase my likelihood of getting the job? I'd like to know at least a little, jobs are hotly contested in this small town and I want to be a convincing candidate
I have one of those undersink slide out trash bins, but you have to lift the lid yourself which is annoying.
I'd like to make some sort of rope and pulley contraption, so that when you try to slide it out, it will automatically lift the lid slightly, and then lower it back down when you slide it back in.
I thought about it and it seems like basically my problem hinges on constructing a device that has the following characteristics (refer to pic 1):
R is a weight representing the lid. Q is the device. P is the pulley that will be routed around and tied to the base of trash can.
When the rope is pulled in given direction, both Q and R will be pulled up at first (plot showing hQ and hR). It doesn't matter if R is pulled in direct proportion to Q, hence the several dashed curves, any of which would be acceptable.
After a preset threshold is met, however, Q continues going up but R remains in place.
When the rope through P is slackened back in, the events play out in reverse: First only Q is lowered without lowering R, but when threshold is reached (ie. the trash bin has almost completely slid back in) R starts lowering as well.
Just to make it clearer, second pic is an example imperfect solution: The threshold is set by putting some barrier in the path of R. After R is snagged on this barrier, it cannot move any more, so further attempts to pull along T1 results in the spring being extended.
The problem with this is that towards the end there will be quite a bit of force stored up in the spring, so the trash can will not slide out easily and snap back when released.
>>1002807 The 'magic component' is what we refer to as the 'black dot'. It's basically a micro circuit with a tiny, special purpose chip that can be loaded with very short, low quality audio recordings. The whole circuit costs pennies to buy, program, and mount, then the whole circuit is covered with a single drop of black epoxy.
You can recreate the circuit if you design it yourself, but you will never be able to produce it as cheaply as they can because they are buying bottom of the line components,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I just bought my first drill, only cost me $99 due to major clearance sale and i would like to know how /diy/ manages these batteries. The manual says to keep them charged but with Lithium Polymer this would damage them, This drill uses Lion so kinda stumped on how to handle them.
>>1002565 ...who comes to /diy/ wants to hear about it, so there's that.
I've found the right part of a chinese bluetooth headset trashed, the left is from a philips one and the arc is from an ear muffler, the ear pads and speakers were salvaged too.
I've spent about two hours cutting, soldering and testing, I've stuffed deceased cellphone batteries behind the speaker in the Philips cup, there's a thin wire for the sound and power I had to drill the arc but mostly is pretty solid and comfy... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1002379 This is a right handed guitar with a reverse headstock. Those are hipsot open back locking tuners that are staggered. The top two don't have enough space to fit the string through the hole. Is this done correctly?
I have a 5050 RGB LED strip behind the projector screen of my home theater. It came with an IR remote. I want to change the stock controller that came with it and replace it with an RF controller.
This LED strip I purchased. >http://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-300-Piece-Remote-Control-Supply/dp/B014KXAI8G/ref=pd_nav_hcs_bia_i_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QGS7P10KPTC9XPMZJ4B
A typicla RF controller that I want to use to replace the stock IR controller that came with my LED strip >http://www.amazon.com/RGBZONE-5V-24V-Control-Wireless-Controller/dp/B0144CIMSQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A3H1S8HVHBGDBK
Here... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
The controller's amperage rating is the maximum amount of current you can run through it. As long as the led strip is less than that you're fine. Don't worry. You could actually run two strings off that controller before hitting the wall.
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