>>1003226 God damn it, use fucking google, you have the fucking library of the world at your fingertips and all you can manage is begging for someone to hold your hand. With your level of motivation you aren't going to get anywhere with this shit anyway. Fuck I hate all the dipshits on YouTube giving stupid people these vapid ideas... You are going to burn your house down and I won't feel at all bad about it.
Just bought a house. Back in 78~ish they put in a textured finish in the master bedroom. I read that it may contain asbestos. Has anyone had any experience in dealing with this? The one lab I called wanted over $100 to test it WITH a 7 day turn around. NJ btw if that matters.
Also is there a big difference in popcorn vs stucco? As in the material that makes the texture?
I didn't scrape any off but I cut off a small piece of the sheetrock for a sample. I wore a mask of course. My thing is I can't tell if it's popcorn or some shitty stucco job. The seller said it's stucco that her dad did back in the late 70's. I looked at the bumps on my sample and tried to see the inside of one but I can't tell if what I'm looking at are the fibers from the sheetrock or whatever material is in the pain.
>>1000422 Why do you need to spend time as a helper? I have zero experience and am not attending school until August, and I just landed an apprenticeship with a fire alarm contractor. It's probably no difference though, if you plan to stick with the same employer through it all.
Anyway, my boss took me to Home Depot on my first day and picked stuff out. If yours doesn't do that, Commercial Electric, albeit a second-rate brand, sells a cheap 22 piece it with a convenient bag. It does not include a conduit reamer, adjustable wrench, magnetic level, magnetic tape measure, or utility knife. For those, go with Klein, the most respected electrical tool brand, when you can. I would also get a tool belt (one unit is fine for now) a Sharpie, and steel toed boots. Your employer should supply safety gear no matter what. If you are Union, your employer will not supply power tools. You probably don't need them now, but you will need a drill and a band saw, maybe a sawzall. A typical non-union employer will supply these, though you will not own them.
Before getting loaded up on this stuff, ask your employer. A helper probably doesn't need half this stuff.
I want to make prop ray guns modeled after the ray guns seen in old 50's era sci-fi movies but trying to find guides and help on building ray guns just brings up Call of Duty crap and spray painted dollar store squirt guns.
Does anyone have any good resources or advice for making prop ray guns?
Go to a plumbing suppliers, thats what the prop makers do Look about and don't be afraid to tell the staff what you're doing, I've found most places are happy to help if they're making a sale Or go the route of making a model and casting them in a cold form plastic Also consider if the material can hold a paint job before buying it
Hey /diy/, I spent a good chunk of last summer killing time on hamstudy, just for fun really, and got to the point I could ace the second tier practice tests all day. It got me really excited about radio in general, and today is one of the first nice days we've had outside and I regretted not having any equipment, so I ordered one of these cheap USB receivers for use with software-defined radio.
Anybody else ever play with one of these? Not expecting too much out of it, but I'd like to be able to listen to locals on a few bands, maybe pick up some satellite... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1005395 >smaller screws No screws. >>1005383 I think you may have the right idea for reinforcing from sag, but if you're looking to reinforce from sway you'll want to put some kind of crossmembers in place. I'm thinking cables that run in an x along the wallside of the desk, like pic related ten thousand hours in GIMP.
Where can I get/Does anyone have any ideas for an undergrad-level robotics project a single person can fund + design + manufacture?
I'm interested in creating some portfolio worthy projects to hopefully get recognized in the robotics industry. I have the summer free. I'd like to do something a bit more interesting than the basic robotics projects you'd see on instructables and shit.
pic related is a chassis I have to work with. I'd like to spend less than $300 or so.
>>1005274 I think that's what I've already done. I bought a bunch of stuff thinking building my own robotic arm and autonomous robot would be cool, but it's really not that impressive.
How would I learn to use gazebo/ROS/github practically? As in learning through application to a project. I would join a team for this, normally - so it's hard looking at the budget for an independent project that would actually utilize these things.
>>1005010 Pic of damaged socket? I'm not really sure how this is possible. I actually fucked up in a similar way, but I fucked the pins on the CPU. I sat there for 3 HOURS with a knife and plastic flat edge straightening pins. It worked.
Looking to get my rental back in order before we move out. When we first moved in this house, our life was chaotic. It's our first rental, we both got new jobs and a new place to call ours. Well, during the 1st month everything was okay. The 2nd month, my Dog couldn't take being home alone unattended anymore (anxiety) and decided to destroy something new. That something new decided to be our carpet the landlord put it prior to us moving in. We don't want to be shitty tenants but I also don't know how to repair this. I've watched a few... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Craftsman has been shit for years. On par with any other chicom compressor like the Harbor Freight crap.
Capacity depends upon how heavily you'll be using the die grinder (or other tools). Die grinders use a huge volume of air. Most are rated at a 15sec run time per minute. They'll easily go through 20cfm+ going full bore, constantly.
5.8 will run most die grinders in all but the most demanding home shop situations. You'll be taking a lot of breaks waiting for the compressor to catch up if you're using it for an extended amount of time.
>>1004239 Depends on who made it for them. Craftsman, Kobalt, Husky, etc. are all house brands. Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. do not make anything, they contract with other companies to make it for them and put their branding on it.
So, find out who the OEM is on the compressor you are looking at and see if they make good stuff. For Craftsman is pretty easy. The model number of the compressor will be something like ###.#####. The first 3 numbers will be the manufacturer code. You wont find this code on their website.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Let's say you're making steel ingots for smithing swords.
You can't cast steel swords without them being useless, but can you cast the ingots into certain shapes that will be easier to smith into swords but will still be a flexible and quality finished product?
Pic related. Imagine working with an ingot that looked something like that. Would it end up being a shit blade after you drew it out to its final dimensions?
>>1004231 >Would it end up being a shit blade after you drew it out to its final dimensions?
There are a lot of factors determining how shit anything will be compared to anything else for whatever purpose you are making it, this being no exception. The question is too broad and you haven't stated any limitations and restrictions, especially with a topic such as metallurgy. Hardness, flexibility, your equipment, skill in material handling, available working temperature and most importantly... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1004256 The production method will change depending on your initial material state, including shape. "Best" is relative, and you haven't stated any factor it's best at. The easiest to manufacture will be the one closest to the final design shape.
>>1004185 if you live in an area that freezes then you need to dig deeper (18-24 inches) and fill it in with gravel. Then you level it with paver sand, put the bricks on top of the level sand and fill the gaps. make your pavers meet level with the sod to ensure they don't shift much.
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