I was going to use the track cutter but a 28 inch would have warped the metal so I cut squiggles into it 7 inches at a time and cooled it in our dunk tank. After cutting I used and angle grinder to polish it up.
I'm planning on using furniture grade PVC to build a shelf/ cargo storage frame in the back of a jeep-type vehicle. Unsure of what size to use, and if 1/2" will be sufficient. Needs to support 40 lbs. minimum. Maximum horizontal pipe length around 2 feet (but can make shorter if structurally necessary). Any experience?
>>1005981 >in the back of a jeep just make it out of steel extrusions and weld it together. or buy a shelving system http://www.katshelving.com.au/images/stories/katshelving/frontslider/Van-Side.jpg
or just use totes. if you plan to store shit permanently, make sure its tied down because you dont want a bolt flying through your head at 100km/h when you rapidly brake or whatever. dont forget cars vibrate and experience frequent dynamic loads from bounding around constantly. that system... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1005984 It's a very low HP suzuki 4x4. Weight is a big concern. It's mostly to put the dog bed on (he's 25 lbs), and to give us more room underneath for plastic totes, camping gear, fishing poles, etc. Plan on mounting it to the existing hardware for the rear seat and rear seat belts (removed). Hoping the PVC will give some flex for offroading with pupper.
>furniture grade pvc I lold, but if you lurk here you should know by now the only furniture grade pipe is black iron.
Really though, half inch might be fine, I'd do 3/4 just to be sure. It's probably not a big deal at all, but if you're going to keep a dog by it is would use cpvc, that's what's used for water supply because pvc supposedly releases some chemical or something when wet that could potentially be harmful. I never looked into it but I only use cpvc for my supply lines anyways. My only thought is dogs... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hey broskis. Was hoping to find some general contractors to help me put an estimate to what I want to do. Not having amazing luck finding anything nearby so quickly.
Found an amazing underdeveloped property going for super cheap so trying to get the ball rolling fast.
Looking at making a house out of shipping containers. 3 40'x8'x9.5' containers. Mocked up a rough(really rough) draft on paint of what I want. Would like to use the exterior walls plain but take out the inside walls, possible weld?(not sure how to best do it) them together somehow.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
For your sake, just delete this thread. It's going to get shitposted into oblivion. I promise you. You will not get any useful information, bingo sheets will be posted, and people will post images of arduinos, crab meat, lawnmowers, and so on.
Hey /dyi/, google couldn't help me so I come seeking your wisdom. I have a vest thats made of 100 percent cotton and it curls up on the edges of the vest, how can I prevent that? Tried ironing in out but that only made it worse, Im open to all advice, thank you before hand!
For those of you who don't know, I'm the anon who was initially looking for some type of rigid chain to extend straight out when unrolled. Further research and some experiments with tape measure blades now lead me towards using 1095 spring steel. In the 60's, NASA researched and developed prototype sand working models of basically the same thing I'm trying to design. The principal is that a bi-stable material (can maintain two rigid structures) can be rolled into a spool, and upon exiting the spool it rolls into a stronger cylindrical shape.
So does this mean that my work comes to an end? Hell no. There is no design that can effectively extend 5-8m in all directions. Also, few designs can transport more than 30 pounds fully extended. And last but not least the pull strength is almost never accounted for except in a few NASA prototypes/Working models, (but no gravity lol).
The picture is a mockup design and will most likely not be the final product. What makes this design different from the rest is the addition of a children's toy, a slinky. The slinky is a low torque tension spring that will be anchored to the barrel as well as the hook end of the device. As the spring steel is unwound and bent into a cylindrical shape, it will pass through the barrel where it is already preset to be in a cylinder. It will also be preset into the retracted tension spring and a cylindrical end cap as it's fed out. As the steel cylinder gets longer, the spring will automatically stretch and fill in the gaps creating reinforcement bands around the tube. When a tube or pipe bents, the width becomes wider at the failure point. If you give the cylindrical tape no room to unravel, bend or kink, it has no choice but to maintain it's shape and rigidity. The slinky can also be tightened around the tube by twisting the anchor end.
So I bought some spring steel and slinkies of various sizes. I got the steel today and I think it's going to be too thick to form in a tube. I want the tube to be 1 inch in diameter, so I bought some .018 inch thick steel at 4 inches wide so I get a nice curl. The problem is that shit is tough! I think I need .010, but I don't know shit about spring steel. That leads me to why I'm here, I have run into a few other problems as well. Questions:
1. What thickness of 1095 blue tempered steel... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1005698 read my post, it goes into the mechanics of it in great detail. The spring supports the tape so that it can't bow out and kink. The blue thing connected to the gears is the spool of spring steel connected to a shaft that is connected to the gears. Again it's not the final design. Purpose: So many I can't count, here's a few for example; lighter and stronger telescoping poles, control arms, assembly belts, lifts grappling hook to name a few.
I took a shitty airsoft gun and used it like one of those. All you have to do is make a wad out of some paper towel or someshit and shove it down the barrel before the salt, and another one after if you don't want it to fall out. Or just make the wads and salt as one cartridge. Worked on wasps.
I already have babby's first electric powered Karcher, but I'm thinking of just buying a good Gas engine 4000psi machine, one of those 270gal/1000liter caged water tanks and a pickup truck, and cleaning driveways and houses and such.
I know this is quite a common business in America or England but I've never seen anyone doing it where I live. If anyone has pressure washing experience they'd like to share I'd really appreciate it.
>>1005541 I have done it to make cash on the side. I did my sister in laws drive way for free and put a sign in her yard. I was busy the next 3 weekends. Her neighborhood is 500k plus homes. I charged 150 for the driveway and sidewalks and an additional 75 for back patio depending on size. Made about 2500...all cash
>>1005545 Thats pretty encouraging because my marketing plan is a lot like your experience. Only the wealthy neighborhoods have paved driveways here, so I'm going to drop leaflets in their mailbox and hope someone bites. Then when I'm in the neighborhood, they'll hopefully see my truck and will want their house washed too.
I definitely can't charge as much as you though. I'm still deciding between charging a minimum of €70 for the first hour, then €25/hr. Or something like €5... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I'm assuming this counts as DIY, so I got a job over the summer being an electricians helper, so I'm gonna need to know what to expect during my employment. it's 10/hr for 10hr a day, sometimes 6-7 days a week. I'm in still in high school (18 tho) so this is big money for me. I don't wanna screw it up
>>1005398 expect a lot of 'get me this' and 'bring me that' and 'we're outta the other stuff so i need you to run to the hardware store and get some more' and 'go down to the truck and lug another spool of wire' ... basically what >>1005399 said.
>don't wanna screw it up Then learn shit while you work. Show initiative. If you prove to the boss that you want to expand your skillset, you might... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hey /diy/ I could use some ingenuity. There's a decently steep slope around the back of my parents house that they want to stabilize/terrace so as to have a nice little walkup patio for them and all their old friends.
Considering the steepness of the hill and how much rain the area gets (a lot) and the fact that the soil is primarily clay with some silt, I'm a little nervous about destabilization and sliding.
I talked to an engineer friend who suggested pic related, geogrids. Layer them between the dirt and they help stabilize it and make it a hell... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1005339 easiest solution is just to plant it. Look up plants for erosion control or slope stabilization. Anything else is going to require permitting/money. The tallest retaining wall you can build in most areas is 3ft high, and its going to cost exponentially more once the wall gets higher than that. If you want to terrace and maintain code it needs to be done like pic related, but its going to require digging and back filling. Often times taller walls also require railings so people dont fall but idk if that even applies... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1005056 I prefer a very big L shaped desk, because I use my desk for lots of shit. So I guess I have to make it very big. Unless that somehow is twice as expensive as a normal one, then I could maybe change some furniture so I just have my 2 monitors and some electronic devises on it.
So I think it will need to be able to lift maybe 10 or 20kgs at a minimum, but preferably more.
Of course just with a press of a button, one to go up in height one to go down in height. And something that it automaticly stops so... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1005057 You would need a motor to move it and some sort of raising system to lift it. Consider looking at the system treadmills use to incline and expanding on it so the range is greater. They can incline with a 200lb+ person so weight isn't an issue
You could also use something like a rack and pinion set or just a hydraulic pump.
If you're not opposed to actually doing the lifting manually you could use gas springs to offset the weight so you would only be lifting a fraction of the weight. I've... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I hate to be the 'Buy It Yourself' guy. But some things are really just best to buy instead of fix. Think about the cost to longevity of something, say you fix these jeans, patch them up, they are already going to be weakened and will need constant repairs, you'll patch one hole and another will spring up and soon you'll be wearing nothing but patches, buy a new pair and it will last you months if not longer (don't know what you're doing to wear... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1004550 i see your point. its more of knowledge id just liek to have in general.
plus the pair of pants in question is already mondo reinforced in the areas i need it to be (crotch), and the only places where its compromising is in the weaker areas, liek the ass, and at the bottoms of the pocket areas. if i can spend $5, rather than $20+, thatd also be nice.
i also disagree with buy cheap pants, especially since im outdoors a vast majority of the time, but again i understand where youre coming from.
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