I am ending my own arcade machine, but I have a little problem of how to fix the command control. I was thinking to avoid buying the small controller (photo) and make one for myself and figure out how to connect / solder a keyboard or joystick under control, where the lever and buttons are.
How do I make a simple as fuck website? I know nearly nothing about CSS/HTML, should I just use one of these services like weebly, or is there a decent tutorial somewhere about website building that I can't seem to find?
>>1020967 CSS/HTML are scripting languages. You either learn them or you don't use them. You can't pop in, learn three lines, and the call it good. You have to actually know what you are doing for something to look decent. If WYSIWYG is what you want, use that.
>>1020961 >i'm too lazy to buy a transformer. A transformer has nothing to do with this.
Connect the tip of the 1/4 to the tip and the ring of the 3.5mm. Tip is left speaker, ring is right speaker. Your guitar amp is mono, if you only connect one only one side of your headphones will work.
Then connect the sleeves of both together, which is just ground.
Do note that if you are trying to use a Line Out plug, you wont get much volume out of it.
>>1020913 No, i knly do plumbing repairs eveey so often for friends and family, and i havent cone across pex yet, usually pvc or copper. but it seems solid and a little easier than pvc. I think you have to buy a tool for the crimps(I don't imagine a basic one being more than $20), but you'll probably make your money back compared to the solvent and primer you'd have to buy and the fittings you'd need every 10 ft with pvc.
Hello /diy/ I have a throttle body that I want to disassembly because of reasons. Of course I want as less damage as possible. Unfortunately all the levers seem to be brazed or welded to the both shafts. Has anybody an idea how I can get the levers of the shafts without totally destroying the parts? Is there a good way to test if the parts are welded or brazed?
Hey /diy/ first-time poster here. I've been looking at some of the stuff you guys tend to do and it looks this board really knows their shit. I've recently purchased an airgun target box and want to be able to practice indoors because the laws are retarded. However I'd like something I can move and that doesn't cost too much. I have two left hands but want to try to make something anyway. I'm not yet at the point where I'm certain I'm not gonna shoot outside the box. Any ideas for something that could be made/converted into... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hi, gun enthusiast here. I have a few traps I made for my kids.
Just so it's perfectly clear, are you going to be shooting a pellet rifle or BB gun?
Also, why does the target/trap need to be moved with such a heavy frame? All the ones I have are exceptionally light, and a commercial BB trap I have is literally a foam block with plastic wrap on the outside, with a handle on top. It weighs ounces, not pounds.
What kind of pellet are we talking about here? An Airforce Condor is gonna require something different than a little co2 pistol will. A better description of your target box would help too. And are you wanting a pellet trap or just a backstop to take care of the fliers?
It really doesn't take much to stop pellets, and there's loads of designs for pellet stopping contraptions. Something like the rack in your pic with a few layers of carpet hanging off it will stop them surprisingly well. But it would really help to know what exactly you're looking to build... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1020520 They are crap. Our machine shop bought one and it took the greasy rags in the shop weeks to get it dialed in. They had to make some of their own parts on the old lathe to replace the crap it was made out of. They are sloppy and inaccurate. Lots of aluminum in them. It flexes. And none of the indicators on it were accurate even after being set. They do work and for the price they can't be beat but you get what you pay for.
>>1019699 True but I'm not sure how much they can handle and how they handle long term. Had a thread recently, most people there said one should only solder or cold solder or else oxidation and heat will build up and create a fire.
hi /diy/, i get an old handheld blowtorch used for brazin a/c pipes, but is quite old and dysfunctional. principally cos the gas mixer was too oxidized etc... the thing is, im planning to make a new mixer with a piece of cupronickel. but there are several of differents flameshapes i guess for difents uses like cooking, brazing, or just heating. and i dont know whats the best for melting things a large one or someone like the pic. anyway why no blowtorch tread?
I want to say "you are in so far over your head that you don't even know enough to know how far in over your head you are". But this isn't necessarily an entirely unrealistic project.
The most glaring issue is the odds that you don't actually have a place to put this. Throwing a car around takes a LOT of force, even if you strip it down to the body, frame, and interior. You can't just bolt this thing to some shitty 6" slab of concrete and expect it to hold up. If you DO have a solid foundation to stick this to, it's not a concern, but if you don't, you're either going to be shelling out to have one poured, or busting your ass for god knows how long doing the bulk of the work yourself.
You're also going to need the help of someone with machine and metal fabrication tools, as it's unlikely you're going to find off-the-shelf parts to make all of this work.
And, of course, there's the problem of actually interfacing the mechanics to the electronics. Even if you're able to find something ready-made that can pull useful physics data out of the game engine(s) you're wanting to play in, you're still going to need some way of converting that data into signals for the hydraulic controls to use. With as many variables involved as there are, I'd be willing to bet there's no way you're going to find suitable hardware to do that. At bare minimum, you're going to need to enlist the help of an electronics guy, if not outright learn how make what you need yourself.
You're looking at a long, difficult, expensive project no matter what. $5 says you never finish it, if you even get started.
I recently purchase an older work boat and I have plans of re-purposing her has a weekend warrior fish killer.
This is going to involve a moderate amount of welding though, and I've spent no time on aluminum. Although not a welder by trade, I've spent years sticking, wire feeding, and brazing on steel and ss. I know aluminum is a different monster, but I don't feel like it's out of the realm of reality for me to learn on my own.
I'm comfortable with weld prep. My biggest questions are what kind of output voltage should I be running to get good penetration on 1/4" and 3/16" material? What size wire should I be running? I was looking at .030" 4043. Does my gas choice differ between when I'm running the spool gun vs tig? I was planning on running pure argon, but could I use C25 while on the spool gun?
I'm setup with an xmt350 and spoolmatic 30A, although since the boat doesn't fit inside my small garage shop most of the time the 30A will be hooked up to my trailblazer 325.
Any help is appreciated, along with general aluminum discussion.
>>1018429 I'm rebuilding one of the jet pumps because the old housing has a crack in it but the newer housings have a different mounting pattern and different OD. So I'm going to cut out a 2'x2' piece of the transom, patch it, and then cut out the proper mounting pattern. I'm also going to run hull stiffeners along the sidewall mostly for aesthetics, but to give a little rub protection to against trees and stuff when I'm moored up in a river. Plus there are a handful of small drill holes to fill.
Alright so a guy is selling this 16,5 ft aluminum hull for like 300 USD, it was for a project he never got around to. I'm visiting tomorrow to check it out. What do I look out for? It's home welded but he claims its very well done, so let's assume that it is. I already know there are "pinhole" corrosion in the hull. Only two pictures, sorry.
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