I have this amber TTL monitor that seems to be defective-not working, has no burn in at all so must be low hour
I only get power LED when turning ona nd heaters but nothing else, now at first I thought uit was just waiting for signal but after trying multiple 8bit Hercules video-cards I am starting to suspect the monitor might have a fault in it. I have no other monitor to verify that indeed it could be the monitor but am very sure it is
The monitor has 3 IC a TDA2593,TDA1170N and a 74LS136W which I suspect might be the problem, but how can I verify that indeed... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Remove the oven racks from the oven and any other obstacles that might bother you while you’re cleaning the oven. Heat up your oven to a moderately high temperature so that the sticky grease turns into ash. After a couple of minutes, turn off your oven. Sprinkle the baking soda on the different over spilled areas of the oven, afterward, spray water on the sprinkled baking soda and get it nicely moist and get it to a level where it’s converted into a paste. Let it sit overnight in order to let the baking soda eat through the sticky grimes.clean your oven On the next day grab a cleaning cloth and start wiping the baking soda from the oven (Hint: to know that you’re on the right track, check the cleaning cloth and its color should be brownish, which are the dirty, sticky grease you just cleaned off from the oven) Use a little amount of vinegar (about two tablespoons) mixed with water to eliminate the dried off pasty baking soda remaining since vinegar reacts with baking soda and foams up which can be easily wiped off with a cloth! Do a final wipe with a dry cloth and replace the racks back and the remaining tools back into the oven, and there you have! A nice clean oven!
You can, ifixit and instructables have guides but it usually takes some fine solder work Having the same thoughts about my nexus 5 after a Chinese cable raped the jack tree point flive is Chinese for 3.7 I guess
Hey guys. I want to put a clothes washer (and dryer) in my kitchen. The house currently has none. Supplying water is no big deal as the supply lines are run in the attic space. The drain is my problem. The house is on a slab and has no basement or crawl space. The nearest drain is on the other side of the kitchen where the kitchen sink is. Since its a galley style kitchen their are doors on either end of the kitchen, isolating the only side I have space for the washer from the only side with the drain. How would I drain the washer?
I'd like to do this without resorting to a portable washer or busting up the flood and slab. Is this possible?
i got this: http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Hexapod-Six-Feet-Robot-Spider-Arduino-DIY-Robot-KIT-18DOF-NO-SERVOS-/281834708588?hash=item419ea85e6c:g:OkoAAOSweW5VPTL7 this: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-5PCS-LOT-SG90-9g-Mini-Micro-Servo-for-RC-for-RC-250-450-Helicopter/2036064605.html?spm=2114.01010126.96.36.199wgnBP&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_5_10037_10017_405_404_507_10032,searchweb201603_2&btsid=3e93c786-715e-410f-840e-08088077e63a a pca9685, and a bunch of 18650, 18650 holders, and a voltage regulator. You can mount the control board with M3 size supports.
There is also a fuckton of books out there for using a raspberry pi for robotics. I've built a small one, now I am working on one that will be about the size of a powerwheels. There's a ton of shit on ebay and amazon that is basically plug and play too. I'm more into the building side myself, so I am approaching it from the other direction. All my programming is cut and paste shit.
>>1012903 >I am interested in the programming and mechatronical (servo motion control etc) of robotics and much less in soldering. There is not much soldering involved in building robots, if you want it that way.
Method #1: you use a rasberry pi as the brains, and it has one camera port on it. you slave a arduino mega to that to act as an input/output interface through USB, to operate motor controllers, to run stepper motor drivers, to make stepper motors turn
Method #2: just like... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1012646 Power source, switch rated for voltage of power source(amps shouldn't matter with an led), resistor if necessary, led, power source.
Use a calculator online to determine if a resistor is needed, all you need to know is voltage, led color, and how many leds. It'll give you a resistor value, and some even tell you where to put it and how to wire leds in parallel or series to fit them all.
I'm in an apartment and I don't want to screw with the wall studs or ceiling joists. There isn't enough space for a turtledog stand or whatever else. My only option is to build a frame that spans the width of the room and stabilize it.
I've narrowed two that look like the best.
Option 1 is a horizontal 2x2 ontop of 2 2x1 nailed together and have the hammock eyebolted to the vertical 2x1.
Option 2 is a horizontal 2x2 betwen 2 2x1 with gussets at each end and the hammock eyebolted to the horizontal.
Reason I'm using 2 2x1... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
option 2 in doubling up the material holding you up, but mounting in option one with cripples under the top piece, and make sure the top piece is mounted in such a way that the load going into it is though it's thickest plane
and good luck having this hold you up i wouldn't build this with anything smaller than 2x4 pieces, though i'd probably double them up and make a frame
or i'd stop being a bitch and use steel 2x2 square tubing and weld it quick and dirty, and never have to worry about it shaking apart
Other than the fact that 2x2 and 2x1(?) trying to hold up the weight of a person, and my understanding that you are only building one of these "frames" I really dont think this will work for anything useful.
What keeps the frame from just falling over from its own weight, two legs of lumber won't do that. Plus I dont think I've ever seen a place actually sell a "2x1" board.
sup /diy/ i'm a guitarfag on a first foray into making my own gear. i'm not worried about sound quality, just producing something of my own. i'm making an overdrive/distortion switch. i'm going to wire a 3-way switch in later.
i've bread-boarded pic related and the distortion works well although i found that switching the diodes out made for a better sound
only problem is that although on oscilloscope the signal seems to be boosted when through this circuit compared with just going acros the breadboard, in practicality the signal is attenuated... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1012330 i made you a simple illustration. as you can see, the stage with one diode each way clamps the signal down to +-580mv. while the stage with four diodes clip at over a volt.
usually, clipping based pedals have a second gain stage to bring the signal up again after the diodes, but I've made a couple of single stage ones like this using diodes in series to get a higher signal.
you can also experiment with different diodes and having one in one direction and two in the other to get asymmetrical... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hopefully this will be a quick thread(not even sure if I'm in the right place). So I have been having internet troubles lately, and I'm on comcast of all things which has been most distressing. After all the trouble the hellbent ISP has been, it turns out that we have old cabling; early 1980s. I know how to put cable in, I'm a journeyman CET, but as far as coaxial cables are concerned I'm a little under informed(Most companies I've worked for just hand me wire and say go from here to their). So, in order for me to keep getting 75mbs/10mbs down/up respectively,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1012038 It comes in right at the main electrical box. Plus it needs to run 8 ft on an external wall. It wont get much sun, but it will get pounded by storms regardless, so a good shield is paramount in everything. Again, this is old wiring so nothing is properly shielded, thus new shielding.
I feel your pain, was looking at the quad shielded. Not sure if anything will improve since the wire outside to the house is old as whats inside (not to mention the hobby box crappy cable I ran 15 years ago). Have a booster and their cable their connectors bla, bla. Now I'm going to move the modem to the front of the line in an attempt to stabilize the internet. Paying a megaasston for some BS HD package full of junk and have to kick the damn modem 1x a week and I'll be damned if I let the hacks into my house to butcher things.
I have one of those. Our wooden chopping board isn't even oiled or anything.
It's just a single big cutout from a log.
No-nothing is the safest way to make sure there's no contamination. If you're worried about bacteria buildup after a few years, you sand it back down again. No big deal because it's already a huge chunk of wood.
My trusty Intellimouse - the most comfortable mouse I've ever held - no longer scrolls up/down when I rotate the scroller. How can this be fixed?
I've previously fixed its double-click issue by manually adjusting the copper springs, but this time I just can't find any info (articles, videos) on the subject, and can't figure out how it even works. Is it mechanical? optical? Someone please give me a nudge in the right direction, thanks /diy/.
I am a poorfag graduate student. Pulling off the nasty fence posts, and replacing them with open ropes is the best I can do. But the rope I could buy couldn't fit around my whole backyard, and the photo is the best solution I could come up with that fits the conditions. What ideas do you all have to make the rope break look alright?
>>1011357 >can't communicate Fair enough, I am a computer science graduate student, so that's definitely a possibility.
Anyway, I am trying to rid the original nasty fence (which was basically rotting) with something else. Digging is out of the question, because literally my entire yard is inundated with stones. So, instead of creating new posts, I went with the eyelet and rope look. I think it looks good, actually.
Anyway, the bundles of rope I bought basically end at the photo. There is an opportunity to do either 1) cut the rope; or 2) keep the rope as is and add something. My question is what does 4chan think I should do? The possibility for something else is also on the table.
So i started my own mead 12 days ago.. it stopped making bubbles and in my anger i broke my air lock. So question is can i drink the shit now? It smells like straight alcohol but its my first time any one got advice?
You can drink it but it won't do much. You need at LEAST two weeks fermentation (like the Mr. Beer kits) and grain kits usually need longer. The air bubbles slow down big time/stop after a few days that's normal but it's still working. Then you need it to set for at least two weeks in the bottle to carbonate. When you bottle you add a little sugar and that jump starts the process again so it can make more alcohol. But this time the air can't escape so it's forced back into the drink as carbonation. So basically no, 12 day old fermentation isn't... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1010843 >in my anger i broke my air lock What is with people on here and breaking their shit when they get angry? Do all these people just go into an autistic rage whenever something doesn't go their way?
Nope. You have to plug this TV card in to the TV coaxial cable that comes out of the ground. If your provider uses TV-over-IP(ethernet->settop box -> TV) or a normal decoder box between the coax and your normal TV, you're fucked.
And no, your PC can not decode it if it's scrambled.
All this card allows you to do is record programs like a DVR.
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