>>916562 Solid rubber would work best I think. I have a solid rubber wheel that has lasted longer than the 4 wheel barrows that its been attached to over the past 20 years. Of course, no one has been shooting at it.
I'm trying to clean an old flash and I need to open it up. These things have capacitors.
I fired the flash after I had removed the batteries. Does this mean the capacitor is fully discharged now? Can I even do this safely without waiting weeks for it to discharge naturally and without buying resistors?
>>919822 It is most likely discharged, yes. Just touch a screwdriver across the two capacitor leads. I've shocked myself off of one before, and somebody else on purpose. It's no big deal, you'll be fine.
Dear /diy/, How are you this Christmas eve? I'm wanting to make my own converter on my own pcb, but am a little confused as to what is on EVERY SINGLE CONVERTER. The little black box and what might be resistors? Why isn't it just direct wired to the different port? both ports use the exact same voltages, so why the extra hardware?
p.s. upon further thought, maybe it's a voltage regulator? to step-down/step-up the voltages to match?
>>919723 OP, some things are more expensive and too much of a pain in the ass to make yourself. The connectors you need to use for this are all surface mount, so you need a PCB to mount them on, so by the time you bought the parts, designed and had the PCB fabbed, and put it together, you could have bought 10 of the things online ready-made. Don't sit there and tell me 'I want the experience of building it' or 'I'm doing it for fun', because there are much more fun and rewarding things you could... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I want to build a wind turbine but braking is an issue due to tropical storms on the island i live on.
I was looking into a gear box when i thought maybe an electronic braking system would be able to more automatically regulate the speed based on the increase or decrease in speed while reducing the overall complexity.
there is a 1st power take off to a small generator, this is powering 2 electromagnets located in opposing fashion over a steel or other ferrous plate with slits cut into it. This will act as the electronic brake.
My theory is that with proper... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>919655 So, you want it to increase load resistance (shunt) as the voltage begins to spike from spinning too fast? That will slow it down but how much it slows down will depend on how hard it is to turn while dead shorted and if the wind can turn it well enough while dead shorted. There's always a chance that a really good wind could still spin it faster.
>>919655 electrical braking is problematic because the components have to deal with the energy as electricity roller coasters use eddy current magnetic brakes which are simple and pretty much foolproof, the faster it turns the more braking force is generated so i'm pretty sure you set and forget a maximum speed and then it works out to some curve of windspeed against turbine speed but i'm happy to be corrected.
I need you pc building specialists assistance. I need to form a pc before the 30th, It's going to be a video editing PC. Currently I'm running an 8 year old pc that just cant handle the abuse the video editing gives it.
Currently: AMD Athlon II X4 630 2.80GHz 4 gigs of ram 64 bit I know compared to new technology thats not high quality but over the years it has done ALOT and I don't regret the time used but I need something more advanced.
Keep in mind I never built a PC before but I need it for my business and it mid range cost... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
You are not building a conventional PC, so ignore people giving advice on how to do that.
Part one: as much, and as fast, RAM as you can afford. If you can, go for two sockets, because that means two memory controllers, which means twice as much RAM. Part two: storage with high throughput. You don't actually need an SSD here, though SSDs are nice in general. Hard disks in mirrored RAID are perfectly acceptable for offline editing, as (due to you adequately provisioning the RAM) there are no random accesses, just big-long sequential slurps. If your tools let you have a scratch disk, or you're using one of those hierarchical cache programs, by all means get a PCIe SSD to act as swap/scratch/cache. Part three used to be hard, but now it's just a case of making sure the path from each device to your RAM is not bottlenecked. This may mean adding in additional storage controllers if the ones that come with your motherboard aren't up to it, but they will be, because you got a decent dual-socket workstation motherboard in step one, right?
Part zero: you don't need much of a GPU, because the rendering doesn't use it, and the UI works with reduced-resolution thumbnails. You could probly even get away with an NVS or onboard graphics.
First learn DC theory. Then learn AC theory. Then learn how semiconductors work. Then op-amps. Then digital electronics. If what you want to do is still too complicated to do with that knowledge, then go look at microcontrollers and microprocessors. If you do it in the reverse order, you won't have any understanding of electronics, you'll just know how to hook up wires and write code. Of course if you don't care about actually learning anything then do what you want, but if you want real knowledge of electronics, then do it in the order stated above. Microcontrollers... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hi diy, I wanted to make a camera head mount rig, something that can hold a canon T5 on my head and shoot POV shots. They seem to only have things for Gopro online so I wanted to know if you guys had any intuitive ideas on ways to make a head mount from mounting gear and other conventional items.
Ive recently started making (jewelry) rings out of old bearings, and i thought it might be nice to paint some. But i have no idea what kind of paint i should use that both hold well on metal, yet is 100% skin friendly etc.
I'd like to make a small, hinged box for my girlfriend.
So far, it's just a few pieces of 3 ply with the bottoms glued to the base with a PSA. I used these because I work at a flooring adhesive factory and it's what's on hand. The sides aren't glued though (and 3 ply isn't very strong), so I was thinking about putting a layer of primer on top of it to hold it together more, and then painting on top of that. Unfortunately, this stuff has some ragged edges from cutting, and I'm guessing I'll need to sand it too.
What is the most efficient approach from where I am currently to a painted, stable, hinged box?
>>919076 I would ditch the PSA and go for wood glue and a miter joint for the sides. Use wood filler or Spackle to fill in the rough edges and sand smooth. Depending on the roughness of the ply, you may want to fill and sand smooth the rest of the surfaces as well. Prime heavy, sand, paint, clear coat, admire.
>>919076 Op glue isn't gonna hold your "girlfriend" in the box for very long. She will eventually chew through the sides. But if you really have to use glue and not screws, make finger joints and put it together. Use a rasp to round out the sides and corners, a file to smooth it out a bit more and finally sandpaper. Now the paint job depends of the finish you want. Do you want it to look like old varnished wood work? Or like a cheap Chinese plastic box?
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