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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 230. page
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I'm going to put up OSB paneling in my shop. Should I spring for R13 insulation for an extra $200-230 while I do it? Here is a heat loss graph I made. I ran a heater 30 min to get from 40 to 72 then let it run down for 40 minutes. Outside temp was 38.
5 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Depends on you, friend.
If you spend plenty of time in there and want to stay warm without the feeling that you are wasting cash, get that insulation in there. Insulation also pays off in keeping things cool so when summer comes around you might be a clever crafter and frame in a window opening to fit a window AC unit or just a vent for a standalone AC. Now you can putter around with soldering irons/saws/imprisoned girls rain or shine, summer or winter.
Absolutley, I've built a few houses with 2×6 on all exterior walls simply to stuff more insulation in them, I blew in 18" in the attic, Execpt for a glass patio door the doors were doubled at the main entrance and garage, very well insulated from the basement and the two largest windows were triple paned.

I fucking love insulation, in fact I'm insulated right now.

But really I abhor working with fiberglass and will never do it again if I can help it, it's the Devil.
R-13 is garbage, you're honestly better off shredding newspaper and wood and stuffing your walls with it. Shit has an r value of like 30

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How would I go about making markings similar to the markings on this wooden ruler? Would I use a stencil and some spray paint? Maybe burn them in with a metal cast?

First time doing something like this. Any suggestions are appreciated.
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soldering iron with a fine, worn out tip.

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so I've decided my next project is going to be building a basic 4 piece drum set (2 tom toms, a snare and bass drum)

I'm hoping to use pre made shells, as i havent got the tools or space for those tools to make them myself. Im struggling to find a place to source the materials i need. does anybody know where I can source drum shells, lugs and hardware of custom size in the UK?

also anybody who has built their own instrument would be great to hear about it, any advice on my project would be appreciated
5 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Why does the hardware need to be custom? Why not use "replacement" hardware? It seems asinine to get a 14 inch rim custom made for a pre made 14 inch shell. Same thing with the lugs and tuning screws. It's just going to be a lot of extra money to get this stuff machined when parts that do the same thing will do the same thing.

You're probably not going to find this stuff locally, an if you do it'll cost more than what you can find online.
music shop
Since you are buying the shells, you can... oh, you are buying the lugs.... oh, you are buying the hardware. I guess you will diy the skins? If you are buying the skins too, you may as well just buy a used drum set on ebay that has the kind of shells you want, and do some finessing/finishing to make them sound and look great to you..

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I asked over in /g/ (technology) but didn’t get any replies, so I thought I’d hit you guys up for an answer as it is kinda /diy/ issue;

I recently got a pair of wireless Bluetooth headphones (iDealUSA) so I could listen to music off my computer (Mac Mini OSX El Capitan 10.11.02) while taking care of chores around the house, including down in the basement such as doing laundry.

Problem is, despite the claimed 10 meter range of the headphones, the audio cuts in & out due to interference from floor joists, heating ducts and whatnot blocking the signal.

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>I recently got a pair of wireless Bluetooth headphones (iDealUSA)
google says no.
At least not for A2DP. No demand for it.

You could take your computer and put your music on icloud or onedrive and stream it all from your phone via an appropriate app or two. Not sure if google drive does it, but I would suspect it does. I know onedrive is quite nice about it. All my stuff on onedrive is automatically in my music apps on all my devices.
There are ways on the RF end to improve reception, but aside from relocating the receiver to a more convenient location, most of them will require some hacking/amplification/swapping of the antennas and thus probably won't be 100% legal (assuming US jurisdiction and no radio license).

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I want to build a centrifuge for projects and kitchen stuffs, I've got a few options over spending $300-$3,000 on a professional one.

I'm not skilled enough to buy the rotors and circuitry so this is a superficial DIY- buy something that spins like a dremel or blender, and either botch it or in the case of the dremel, create an attachment.
I can do the attachment part myself, some tips and ideas are welcome but my main thing is I have two concerns:

leaving a dremel on for 5 or more hours at 20,000+ rpm, good or bad?

Dremel has less torque than...
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400ml of fluid is over half a kilo to spin. With a dremel or the like that means balancing needs to be done properly. Try to figure out an attachment and balance it very well maybe with the cell phone method where you run an app and adjust the rotor accordingly.
Using falcon-sized centrifuge tubes also means the tubes need at least to run at an angle, preferably with a pivoting attachment so that whatever you are centrifuging won't wash out from the bottom when the centrifuge stops.
And with larger tubes the...
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I'm not sure what the cell phone method is but thanks for the info.
I didn't like the 3d printed version because it has no pivot and doesn't allow for the vile to rest, which are both safer and more efficient.

if you could help me out one more time before I hurt myself, I was wondering how a string or chain would fail to balance perfectly, so long as the speed was adjusted slowly enough for it to not wrap around whatever the spindle would be?

in other words, viles A and B were attached...
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Try searching for it. Balancing cell phone app rotation or whatever you know the drill. There is at least one instructable about it.
I got seriusly drunk between posts so I'm trying to follow your train of thought before I forget this thread.
One problem with a string/wire approach might be turbulence or wobbling. The centrifuge tube might wobble during rotation in a way that you can't see/measure it.
I'm not sure if this is an issue but consider it. Wobbling would prolly reduce the effectiveness of the g's you are trying to achieve.
A fixed stand for the vials might eliminate the risk of problems like this. I'm a molecular biologist so I have hands-on experience with these machines but no clue about designing of them.
Off to sleep, fuk I'm fukt.

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I'd like to build my own soundboard. Never attempted anything like this, but I'd like to make all the circuitry and stuff by hand. Has anyone had any experience with stuff like this? Am I in over my head?

>pic unrelated
7 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
What kind of sounds are you looking for? Simple beeps and sirens can be done with oscillator circuits using chips like the 555.

Almost any microcontroller can play WAV files because those are just a sequence of voltage levels you dump to a DAC to play the sound.

There are also some chips designed specifically for applications like yours. ISD1420 can record and play up to 256 different sounds so long as the total duration is less than 20 seconds. This was used in 90s toys like the yak-back and billy bass. SPO256 is an alaphone chip used for things like speak-and-spell...
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Mayhaps "soundboard" was ambiguous. I meant an audio mixer. 12 channels ideally with stereo XLR and 1/4' output.
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Do you mean a mixing board like pic related or a single-channel mixer? It's the same circuits either way. A mixing panel is just several single-channel mixer circuits combined so you get multiple outputs mixed differently. Potentiometers are arranged in a grid so the Y-axis is your different inputs and X-axis is pots controlling the different mixed outputs.

You want Stereo, so you'll need dual potentiometers. These are two separate potentiometers controlled by a single knob. You're working with...
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So ive been looking for a new blade for my 12" miter saw.

Looking at the diablo blades, because they are in my local hardware store and seem to be decent for the price.

Looking through them, the 3 "general purpose" blades all have deep gullets. From what ive been reading up on, that is for ripping wood.

All 3 of them clearly say only for miter saws on it.
All the other ones that dont have the deep gullet are like 100t and double the price or specialty non ferrous metal blades.

Am I missing something? You dont need that ripping ability...
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Gullets only serve to eject saw dust so I wouldn't worry about the deep gullets, they may prove to be beneficial. You definitely do not need a rip blade on a miter saw. Ive had good luck with the Diablo combo blades.

Dedicated blades have different tooth configurations and different grinds so that's why they cut different. A rip blade should be around 24T while a xcut blade will be anywhere from 32T on up depending on what youre cutting (plywood, softwood, hardwood).
Basically, more teeth are used for finer finishes like trim, moulding, etc. Lower teeth counts are used for basic carpentry like cutting 2x4 to length or ripping plywood.
Is a 60t one like in the OP suitable for crosscutting 2x4s?
It should give a cleaner cut right?

I cant decide how many teeth I need, but in all reality I pretty much only cut cheap 2x4s

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(sarcasm)I know how you guys love these kinds of threads.

But anyways my brother in law has got 9 or so large old portable oxygen concentrators from work. and i am trying desperately to think of something I can do with them or their insides instead of just scrapping them. I already made an offer on the 120mm 110v fans and cages if he does scrap them.

Please /diy/ help me think up a reason to get more neat junk besides just concentrating oxygen.

I'll fallow up with some shitty pics of the insides of one he already tore down.
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maybe an air compressor?
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As far as i know they all work but are just old.

Maybe i could get pure oxygen if i hooked several up in parallel?
Sell them. People like to put blow torches on them for glass work or some shit.

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Need help, guys. I typically post woodworking stuff. Have recently become obsessed with electronics, but am admittedly amateur level.

Wanting to get into audio and build stereo/guitar amps. Am currently at a Frys Electronics in Atlanta to pick-up a Fluke 117.

My question that I'm hoping you guys can help with is wtf is the difference in manufacturers and materials of electronic components and the difference they can make. Frys has everything, component-wise, minus said tubes. But I hear their components are somehow inferior for most applications, audio or...
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No expert but these things usually come down to tolerances and power ratings, you mostly would have to take their word for it as testing these tolerances would be time consuming and in some cases destructive. For example, modern microprocessors and chips are usually rated after manufacture for their stable speeds and what not.
My assumption is that Frys is actually a third party to some other manufacturer. They'd have to be the first retail store in history manufacturing their own line of small items.
Guitar amps have been built for ages with terrible tolerancing and great results.

Better tubes for example will be quieter, last longer, and be more efficient. This is all kind of moot though when you're hosing full bore distortion through your drivers.

The type of components chosen will make more of a difference, albeit a very small one.

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So if this already exists, why can't we all come together and create our own version instead of waiting 2 years and paying 80,000 dollars?
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Because the parts are probably expensive and require greater engineering knowledge to assemble than is available on a diy forum. You aren't going to get a bunch of shit from your local hardwear store and make a hovercraft u nerd lmao
They just aren't efficient enough to be practical. Fuel is heavy, and anything that uses ground effect uses a lot of fuel to stay airborne; physics, unfortunately, works, and in this case it works against you.
Noise pollution.

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Can someone please help me figure out how to set this light scheduler thing? Landord is away and we had power outages, wants me to re-set it (I guess for lights out between 8AM to 5PM or so...)

Hope it' ok to ask this here.
9 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
you seriously want someone to google up the instruction manual? ugh this board is shit
>you seriously want someone to google up the instruction manual?

No, I could do that myself, if I had any idea who makes this thing.

Sorry if I offended you, like I said, wasn't sure if I should ask this here-- but /r/ seems to be only for porn now, and I figure /g/ is too l337 for this.

So any help is appreciated.
Damn, my apologies-- I just realized /wsr/ was the right place for this. Wish I could delete this now.

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I'd like to start up a new soap general because I have just recently started back into it. However I am a dumb nigger and don't seem to have soapdad's recipe sheet.

Let's make the opening theme of this one about how to help dumb idiots like me not fuck up.

I have done two batches so far, and I did them both the same way.

I tried to make castille soap. Just olive oil, lye (NaOH), and distilled water. I followed instructions very carefully and used brambleberry's lye calculator.
Additionally, I ensured that the lye water and oil...
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Castille soap takes FOREVER to cure.

It takes two days to set up a proper loaf to cut and should be aged for no less than 6 months. I have a batch of castille soap that has aged 2 years now and is absolutely wonderful.
I realise it's not quite as exciting as making your own soap from oil & lye, but you can pre-made soap bases that you can then just add your fragrances etc. into and pour into a mould.
Well, that explains it. After your prompt I went and did some research and indeed many places warn that Castille soap can take over an entire year to fully cure.

Any suggestions? I'm looking at 60/40 coconut/olive, because I like hard soap. Any way to sort of predict how long an oil will take to saponify and whatnot?

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hi there! i got a question, they just replaced out watermeter and i noticed that there is water in the display itself, its almost full, there is just a tiny air bubble at the top.

is that normal?
6 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Yes. Fluid filled gauges are more responsive and accurate.
good, thanks. just curious, even the ones like in the op pic? because i cant seem to find a fluid filled just by simple google search
Its glicerine filled

How could you make your own inflatable mattress, cushions, etc and have them last a long time with actual use?

Make a styrofoam mold and surround it with carbon fiber and PVA? Would unstarched fiberglass be better? Use gasoline to remove the styrofoam?

There has to be an easy way to do it.
9 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
It'd be easier to make a non-inflatable one.

I was looking at boat plans, and I was thinking very sturdy, long lasting inflatable mattresses would be just the ticket. Lightweight and very multipurpose. You could use it as a raft in the water, a bed in the ship, emergency lifesavers, and whatever pillows, cushions, and mattresses were left would be a slight deterrent against sinking... lol

A method to make ridiculously strong and long lasting inflatable items would be very useful in marine applications.

Plus, the industry NEEDS a way to make inflatable products stronger and more durable. I've never seen an inflatable thing last longer than a week or two with regular use. Not even mattresses.

So, how could it be done?
Unfortunately, making it sturdier also means increasing cost or increasing weight. Making it stronger is easy, you just make it thicker with the same materials or you use completely different materials that are far stronger yet far more expensive.

Nano materials are probably the next big thing for this type of use.

Hey guys, I watched a video the other day to learn how to forge a basic knife out of steel. The problem is the guy used a belt sander to make the bevel on the knife. I have all the tools and ability to make the blade, but I don't know anyone who has a belt sander and I can't afford to buy one. Does anyone have some sort of alternative to make a bevel?
19 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
You can look on Craigslist for used sanders. Also check auction sites. For example I got an industrial Baldor belt sander for 75 dollars (overkill for your needs but large is good!). You can also use a bench grinder if you must.

An angle grinder and a few flap discs can also work well for smooth metal removal. You can find grinders used too.

An angle grinder is more versatile than a belt sander and with cutting discs and other accessories can do many jobs.

Wear a face shield when using any grinder.

If you wait patiently and hit garage sales, flea...
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Will definitely check thanks!
For anyone wondering, this is the video.


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