Recently discovered i have a moisture issue in a corner of my basement. Not nearly as bad as the one in the pic as what little mold / mildew there was was contained to the back of the drywall and the 2x4's studs and baseboard (the guy who built it did not use treated wood for the stuff making contact with the floor... i know)
Now i have kept an eye on it and it takes a serious fucking storm to get moisture / water there. BUT its still an issue and i cant re-finish the room until i fix it for good.
The wall has some stair steping hairline cracks but as far... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
There is a gutter downspout that dumps water near that corner, and 2 more in the back of the house the dump it near there.
That side of the house is opposite the side that gets heavy rains but with 3 down spouts there thats still a lot of water weight put on the corner. If i redirect the flow of water im hoping that is enough to solve the... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Just kidding, not gonna go through all that unboxing bullshit on a board this slow. But it's a free $200 fluke multimeter that they gave me for nothing. If anyone's interested I'll tell the story of how y'all can get your own.
>>1013437 the fug - collect your urgent medical supplies in confort, safety and convenience with a-fucking-literally 5 minute car journey from airport to clinic..
..or choose to duct-tape-n-cardbord-box load them into a random autonomous flying object, assuming the weathers nice, and hope for the fucking best - go on, live a little dangerously! - its only critical medical supplies, after all.
Wife ordered some new wicker furniture for our deck. Got a set that includes a table like pic related. Didn't notice the glass top when getting it apparently. Unlike pic related, it doesn't slot into the indentation, just kind of floats on top of the rounded edges (it's almost exactly as wide as the table). Only thing included was a 1 inch bumper pad with four little nubs. Doesn't look like it'd really do much - maybe cut apart the single nubs could buffer the edges but since it was packaged seperate from the table, I'm really thinking they sent us the wrong size top.
Any ideas how to secure this thing so it doesn't fly off and shatter at the first bump or stiff breeze?
I'm replacing my kitchen faucet but the new faucet's cold supply line is too short to reach the shutoff valve. On the old faucet the cold was longer than the hot which made it fit just right. This new one has the hot line longer than the cold as in pic related. So is it possible to switch these out in the actually faucet/handle or do I need to get an extension?
So I have a ton of succulents, most of which I've had for 2+ years without any issue. I picked pic related up a few months ago at a market (it looked healthy at the time) but within the last week it's completely deflated. I'm assuming based on my googling that it's rotting inside.
Can I still propagate this to try and save it sort of? Or is it completely toast? I've never had any other issues with other cacti or succulents I have, so I'm not sure what caused it to become like this.
>>1012475 Remembering back to days of a few Botany classes, at this point, it may be best to try to salvage it by replanting it's own roots in a different pot with proper growth-inducing soil.. Of course they would have to be healthy roots and not dead.
I forgot the technical name for this process but it should work if you upkeep well.
I don't know what it's called, or the brand name but the tool is a metal shear. it is hydraulically operated and uses a foot pedal. I need to adjust the foot pedal and possibly addjust the blade. Please help me. The whole blade does not come down at once, it works off a pivot point like GIANT scissors. The closer to the fulcrum the more power...any idea the proper name of this tool and any useful links? please help.
>>1012286 Goldie search hydraulic plate shear or hydraulic sheet metal shear turns up quite a few results. As far as maintenance and blade adjustments I would look to manufacturer for guidance as different machines will have different specs for blade spacing. For example one of our machines would not cut thin metal for shit unless shims were installed behind the blade to get it close to the other blade. Another machine had an adjuster based on the thickness of the material you were cutting, and a guide for where the blade should be set.
I'm planning on making a PVC nerf rifle/cannon to use with the oversized Nerf mega darts. Now, there's plenty of plans out there for combustion style potato guns, or CO2 powered cannons, but I can't seem to find any solid plans for what I want. I just want to fire this little dart with as much power as reliably possible, without needing to do things like recharge a separate tank, or refill some sort of fuel. Any ideas?
Here's a shitty example of the design I'm leaning toward right now. Pump on the bottom to pressurize the larger tank up top, with a valve just past the tank to release the air. It obviously needs reinforced and made in a way that's comfortable to hold, but that's the basic functional plan I have in mind. Anything majorly wrong with it, or any better way to do it?
Get a Schrader valve stem from napa. Use a bike bump with a cam-locking hose so you can either leave the pump attached or drop it when you have an air compressor handy
Don't forget to use primer with your cement. Also google around for the magic PVC gun ratio so you know exactly how long to make your barrel in relation to your tank, and the correct diameter for the tank and valve. A stubby barrel will result in the payload leaving before the majority of the air has time to do work on it
I just bought a 1969 CT90 that's been neglected for a few years, It's not too far from running but I want to do more with it than just that. I want restore it. Here's the problem though, I know virtually nothing about painting or metal finishing. It's rusted in a few spots and the chrome bits are a little rusted. I can clean the rust up but I'm not sure how to prepare a surface for painting or how to paint for that matter. The chrome really has me worried though, chroming kits online are really expensive and have some really nasty chemicals, so I've... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>1006817 I thought about it, never got around to it. It's too much hassle desu, you can get a nice metal case for $25. You wouldn't save any money building it yourself unless you had scrap metal laying around.
Does anybody have any sewing experience? I enjoy basic handsewing and for the past few months I've been focusing on sewing plush toys. I designed a basic one which came out quite well but now I'm trying to design a Teepo plush from the Tales of Xillia game.
Pic related is a prototype out of scrap fabric/denim, my third complete redesign. The geometric shapes and curves are proving to be an absolute nightmare to get right, real slow trial-and-error shit. I'm normally fine with that but it's taking so long and constant failures are killing my mood. I... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>993783 I have very little experience with this but I found that pointy areas that taper off tend to get distorted the most. It's hard to explain but you have to cut the fabric more round that you think it should be. Even then it's easy to get unexpected results.
The only thing I have ever sewed is this pig toy but I think it came out well enough. I did add legs and proper eyes but don't have a photo since I gave it away.
this is a mexican (well, at least it is very famous in mexico) alcoholic drink, in english it would mean something like "crazy water", i would recomend it if you want to do a party and you would not like to waste a lot of money.
1.-a full water carboy (preferably, the ones that are about 15 or 20 liters)
2.-6 flavored mix drinks (preferably, kool aid, also, you will need more if you want to use more water)
3.-Vodka or any other alcoholic drinks (i would preffer tonayan, but i dont know... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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