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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 204. page
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Hi everyone, I bought a Makita Hammer Drill and need to know which model it is, help me please, I googled some images and take a picture with my cellphone. Sorry the bad english, Thanks again
11 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
here is another image of the Drill, thanks again
Just search the model number
Open it and see if you can find a part number on anything and then annex that to your search term, you'll maybe find the parts page for the model of drill. Then you know which model it is.

File: manbun.jpg (66 KB, 500x495) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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How to do the man bun, PROPERLY, for mid to long hair types.

The less you think about the steps as you do this, the better - it should be more of an instinctual process. The key is how much you pull through the elastic as you don't want it to be floppy or sag - you want it to sit high up on the head and be tight - and thus any extra you are going to want to wrap around - or you are going to want to fold the hair as you pull it through, so when you put it through the second loop of the elastic it keeps it all tightly...
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>So yeah, if you like these videos, let me know what else you would like to see or hear from me! :)
Am I on fucking youtube right now or something?
Take your cum dribbling somewhere else

thx for the tips, I'll try this with the beard hair on my neck so it doesn't get in my food.
Hey that's pretty cool. Everyone told me though when I had a mustache I let it be too wide. Do you have a grooming guide for them

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I didn't see one so I am gonna open it in the hopes that someone can help.

Two years ago I did a course in which I studied AutoCAD, I was really good at it but forgot most of it since then, so I am trying to refresh it. Now when I studied I used the standard of my country, and now I am interested in using an international or european standard as I am in a different country.

Would you be able to point me in the right direction as what kind of landscape and portrait templates(image related) are used in Europe as a general basis for Industrial Maintenance area....
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13 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Europe use ISO and DIN (german) standards ( for mechanical engineering ) most of the time.
Do you have a example template for those standards on A4?
The 'standards' are just print sizes. There's no standards designed for the title block. Just put the titleblock on the bottom of the unbound side of the plans, i.e. opposite the staples.

Title blocks usually are organized with information vertically in more or less this order:
Project title
Drawing description
Drawing number
Scale (either the scale used or the word 'varies' if multiple drawings or sections in different scales are present)
Page number
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File: image.jpg (2 MB, 3264x2448) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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So my guitar fell today and it sort of cracked. Is there any way to fix it?
9 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
You can try epoxy and sanding/refinishing however if ther is any separation of the body and sides then you will need to secure this. My suggestion is if the guitar is worth more ham 1000 just take it to a licensed luthor. Otherwise ou will probably just fuck it up
It just cracked on there and part of it chipped
Leave it alone. It adds character.

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RC Rover to watch your house

Hello guys, I want a wifi RC rover or an RC spy tank to watch my house.

However: all these so called wifi rovers or wifi spy tanks don't connect to your wifi so you can drive and watch them when you are not at home, but they make their own wifi network, so you can only use them when you sit next to it. Which kinda ruins the point.

I was wondering if any of you guys know where I would go to do something like this or make it myself even.

Basicly I want to drive around in my house when i'm not at home and I want...
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I was kinda thinking I really want an RC Excavator with the reason I can maybe use parts of it. And its fucking fun anyway, it brings back the kid in you. But it could be used to put a camera on the arm and maybe turn the basket into some sort of claw for some extra fun. So lets say I buy a cheap RC shovel. Then I need an IP camera with battery and some way to control this thing on my smartphone over the internet.

How the hell would I go about doing this?

it seems fun as fuck though, instead of playing...
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I've been looking at some RC excavators at Gearbest, Dealextreme, Banggood and shit but they are expensive as fuck to send to my country (i live in europe) so I might need to keep looking to find a good one I can use for this project.

I want one with real tracks and something that is a bit sturdy. Many probably use weak as fuck servo's and no real hydraulics, but i kinda wanna do it as cheap as possible so I dont think I have any choice
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Basicly this

also rate my paintskills

Hey anons! I would ask a more relevant costuming board like /cgl/ but this is more specifically related to electronics, so I feel that there are probably people with more knowledge on this than me.

Long story short, I make costumes for a local performance group and the costumes I'm helping them design at the moment feature RGB LED strips on the dress. Each dress uses roughly a full roll (5m) of LEDs, and the basic version of this dress runs flawlessly, running a single colour just fine.

However, they want the LEDs programmable via remote/iPhone/what have you...
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I'm confused. Do they want the lights to be wirelessly controlled through a central interface in real time, or do they simply want to be able to program the lights with a choreographed sequence?
for a choreographed light sequence, a simple timed controller, like how timed powerpoint transitions works, would work.

Anouk Wipprecht used DMX controllers to run her VW exposition. she goes into it very basically (she has a sheldon to do the programming and hardware stuff so her technical knowhow isnt terribly in depth but goes over how it worked for the show) https://vimeo.com/79291807

depending on how professional this is, it might be worth...
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posting Anouk Wipprecht because she bridges the divide between /cgl/ and /diy/

File: Sound-Attenuation.gif (354 KB, 520x300) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Hello, I don't know if this is the right place to ask, but I would like to create a sound insulation for my room by myself.
The problem is my upstairs neighbors, some lazy ass "students" who are home all day and do nothing but noise.
They walk barefoot or with their shoes on, and I can hear everything vibrating.
They can't speak normally, they can only shout, and apparently they don't sleep, as they don't go quiet even at night.
They rarely blast loud music/television though, so the problem is only the noise propagating (the vibrations...
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There's fuck all you can do about that m8y
If you're in the states then you file a noise complaint with the landlord
When they're shouting, call the police and say there's a domestic dispute in the apartment. Keep repeating every day you hear them shout. They'll stop.

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So I bought this Gerber folding knife (Scout) and I loved it but I hate how it looks. The huge BG initials and the signature I can live with, but the orange plastic looks awful in my opinion. What could I use to coat the plastic with? I'm looking for a grey/black coat that wouldn't wear off so easily and sustain some abuse.
34 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
Dye that penetrates the plastic, probably.
It's the BG and signature I couldn't accept...
I could probably remove the BG with some acetone, but I think the signature is laser engraved.
Mine cost $9.

Why don't you just get one that isn't ugly to begin with?

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I work night shift which means I need to sleep during the day, problem is there's too much light in my bedroom, even with the curtains closed. The curtain rods are about 3" away from the window frame and I'm renting so I can't move them closer or install blackout blinds.

I'm not just going to put foil over the windows as I don't live in the ghetto, so I had a few ideas

1) sheets of white cardboard (cut to size) on the inside of the window glued to black cardboard to block light

2) rig up a frame to put a temporary curtain rod...
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I bought floor length blackout curtains and put a towel in the air gap at the top. Then put dinder clips along the seam of the two panels. Then bunch the curtains up as best you can to the ends of the curtain rod to help keep the curtains pressed against the wall.

Barely any light gets into the room after that.
Also forgot. Many older drywall corner flashings are ferric steel instead of the modern aluminium ones. Get a magnet and see if it sticks to the corner of the window frame. If it does you can get some small neodymium disks to keep the curtain in place
Unfortunately it's aluminium.

I guess I could always bluetack some magnets inside the runner for the window, although that would limit how far I could open the window.

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Hello /diy/

So I'm sure some of you are familiar with Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy. For my man cave I want my door to sigh when it opens and closes.

I can't find anything online to buy that does it, so I guess I'm going to have to make one. I don't expect to start with shit like this right away, build my way up to it with smaller projects.

I've messed a bit with electronics. I've built a Jacobs ladder and a tesla coil, replaced capacitors on computers, and so forth.

Anyway tl;dr

I wanna build a sighing door...
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Arduino and many other microcontrollers can play WAV files because those are just a sequence of voltage levels you dump to a DAC. You'll probably want to connect an amplifier to that because a speaker driven directly will be quite. Have a switch trigger the sound to play when the door is opened. A reed switch or hall effect sensor will form a switch triggered by a magnet which is a popular way to implement door burglar alarms.

you just wire a switch across the 'play' button on the front. could be a self-adhesive magnetic switch, so you dont mar the door.
Waist way would be a limit switch. Door opens it trips, door closes it trips. From the switch you could go to any number of devices. Eg... that dudes talking picture frame.

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Do you think he can do it? how likely do you think it is that he will succeed?

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Meh, he seem's to have his airframes down tight, these are the most viable attempts I've seen so far, because, well, these things actually look kind of aerodynamic. He really needs to learn how to wing though,

> dat mainplane
> the camber was fat

If he can work out how to airfoil he'll have my sword.
not with that dirty ass airfilter.
It might work. It's certainly not unprecedented to have a ~20% thick flat-bottomed airfoil. This one looks like a close match, and performs okayish at Cl around 1.0: http://airfoiltools.com/airfoil/details?airfoil=goe384-il

File: My Glorious Faraday Cage.jpg (3 MB, 3664x2748) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
My Glorious Faraday Cage.jpg
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Hello. I finished now building my Faraday cage, by glueing aluminium can's sheets around a shoebox. But when I tested, it didn't work. I've put one wireless home telephone inside it, and pressed the button on the base that makes the phone beeps, in order to allow the owner discovering where the hell is the telephone. It beeps as there was no aluminium around it... What have I done wrong?
33 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
Faraday cages need to be earthed.
OK, I connected the aluminium layer of the cage to the "ground" of the power outlet, and it still beeps. Whould I remove the external protection layer (anti-oxidation) of the aluminum sheet?
>What have I done wrong?
You should design an actual Faraday cage for the specific RF you want to block instead of merely putting something in a box covered with aluminium. That almost does nothing.
The first step is to acquire a little bit of autonomous problem solving capability: start like this: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+design+faraday+cage

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Anyone make their own clothing here?

I was wondering how much of an investment, time-wise, it would be to pick it up as a skill. I buy clothing quire rarely - part of the reason being that reasonably priced stuff either a) fits terribly, b) falls apart in under a year, or c) both.

I'm not really at the income bracket where I can afford to pay a tailor for practically every piece of clothing I own, so I figure this could be a happy middle. Obviously I'm not going to be making my own suits right out the gate (though that's definitely a long-term goal)...
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It's a lot of work. If you can get a second hand sewing machine cheaply, you can begin by buying oversized things from goodwill and taking them apart, and getting them to fit you.
It's a lot of practice that is needed.

Buy thrift or factory outlet and learn to alter clothing to fit you well. Start with thrift, practice altering t-shirts (should be under $1 at any thrift store) to fit your torso. Then move up to pants. It helps if you are relatively thinner than normal, as it's very easy to take in, while harder to let out. Then move up to altering sport coats, as long as the shoulder fit is good, altering is simple. Suits are the final stage, again work on cheap ones before moving...
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the cutties on >>>/cgl/ might be more helpfull than us /diy/nossaurs

I want to buy some RGB led lights for indoor use but I couldn't find one that comes with an adapter. Like this one, all of them just have a tiny bit of cable.

Question is, how can I make it work? What kind of cable should I buy that has the same wires in it so I can solder them together? Also how do I know if it would work with 220V?
4 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
normally they tell you what voltage they work on.
if it works on mains voltage just attach a plug to the wire and plug it in

In Canada the cable you'd use is called cabtyre, no idea about bong/euro land. Just go to an electrical supplier and ask for flexible cord with three conductors. You won't need anything fancy.
You should buy standard mains cable that has three wires. If I were you I'd take it apart and solder the wires directly to the driver inside the box, instead of hacking it on the outside.
This oe says it works with voltages between 100 and 245 volts, so it must be some high tech shit.

File: Handkerchief.jpg (428 KB, 671x606) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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hey /diy/,

today i have a very specific demand.

i'm trying to determine if it would be possible to dye or paint a piece of fabric so that it would be opaque under normal light, but would be transparent (not fully transparent, but enough to reveal what's behind it) under harder lighting condition - such as a ray of sunlight hitting it directly.

i have a few ideas to start with - acquiring a very thin piece of fabric, painting it with a mix of transparent oil paint and painting medium to dilute it, but i'm not sure if that would work.

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Scrim fabrics are lightweight, woven cotton and effectively see-through when they're lit from an oblique angle, but appear solid when lit from the front. OR do you only want to use that fabric?
im not set on a particular fabric, i just need one that would retain a certain transparency once coated with a very thin layer of oil paint.

Try this fabric. Used it in the theatre years ago.

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