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File: IMG_0738_1024x1024.jpg (84 KB, 1024x683) Image search: [Google]
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Hello,

I have a concrete/regular drill , a cordless dremel, and a wired dremel knockoff with various wheels and bits.

I need to figure out how to drill a 1-5/8" hole without a hole saw. I need to make a 1-5/8" hole in a steel bracket and another same size hole in a metal salad bowl. I'm wondering if there is a way I can cut the circle out using a wheel with my dremel or not.

I'm trying to make a bracket like this http://shop.cwandt.com/products/tripod-light?variant=254796582 and the metal salad bowl will be my shade. I'm using this...
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>>935279
Draw your 1 5/8 circle with a clean sharpie (that hasn't been used for a /b thread), drill as many holes inside the circle as you can, then use one of your dremels with a stone to grind out to your sharpie outline. The salad bowl is probably stainless, you may have to knock some starter holes with a nail, and it'll take longer. If you try the drill use a lubricant, a good sharp bit, and good luck. This will all take you some time. Assuming you know something about safety and procedure when drilling holes in...
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mark the 1-5/8" hole circumference on the bracket and bowl, drill a bunch of small holes(e.g.1/8") around the circumference, and use the dremel to connect the holes.

or buy pic related for $6.50
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bayco-8.5-Clamp-Light/14003467
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>>935291
>>935295


Thanks for the replies. I would have bought the lamp with clamp but here in Canada, it's around 23 dollars for one that can handle 150 watt bulb. I got the lamp socket with cord for 6 and the stainless steel salad bowl was 2 bucks.

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Hi diy, I 've been searching information to write and read data on DDR module, but I don't find serious source, or functional approach.

Any suggestion?
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You're going to have to provide more details on how precisely you intend to read & write - like the setup, I realize you are asking about the method. Unless you mean you need both setup AND method in which case you clearly don't possess the knowledge to be able to pull this off successfully.
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>>935189
I find it rather interesting that ostensibly you can write code for an FPGA but you don't know to consult either the datasheet for DDR memory or go find the standards documentation for DDR memory to find this information and/or understand this information? No bully, but: Are you sure you know enough about what you're trying to do to be working with what you're trying to work with, here?
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>>935189
This is a rather strange request for /diy/. although i bet the neckbeards at /g/ don't know anything about FPGAs

What kind of FPGA are you using? what evaluation board? What kind of RAM?

Is it a SoC with the RAM shared between the processing system and programmable logic?

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Hey, /diy/ This is my first time coming here, but I have a question that I think would be better issued here than any other board.

I have a Headset I've been using for about a month now, and today when I was putting them on, I streched the headband too far and it snapped, luckily since there is a layer of foam and covering on it to soften the headset, it's still technically in one peice, but the plastic band underneath is broken in two. Is there any way to fix this?

I've currently tried to duct tape it, but that seems like it's not working as...
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>>935003
take the covering off and take a picture for us.
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I had a pair just like that and it too broke the same way. I tried some wood skewers as a splint but it didn't hold up. In the end i used a metal fork,skewers and tape to hold it together. Internet spaceships was my motivation back then.

What do I need to change in this circuit to adapt it to handle a 36V 20A output and a 12V 60A input?

http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/3787fc.pdf
20 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
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>>934645
nigga if you can't figure out a linear datasheet theres not much hope for you.

easiest way without doing any math will be to attach a 100k pot across the output rail with the wiper going to VFB, you can then just turn it until the right voltage comes out, make sure you start low(towards negative) or you'll likely damage the controller as soon as Vout > Vin.
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The data sheet indicates a 10A max output. Use more than one, you worthless tard.
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>>934645
you can't because of the rating like >>934731
said. get a different part or more of these parts

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Well, my Ipod Classic simply does not turn on anymore. I already tried everything I've had read on google. Asked a tech support's guy and he told me something inside the Ipod must be disconnected. Anyway, I want to open it therefore I don't have any proper tool. Do you guys suggest anything?
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>>933784
I suggest you google how to open an Ipod classic.

Most likely though, whatever you do to repair it will be require a lot more effort (time/money/value) than just buying a new mp3 player like a sansa clip+ or using your smartphone.
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>>933784
Did you make that image specially?
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>>933784
Maybe you need a new battery? Or is it supposed to turn on when you plug in the usb regardless? Open it up.

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How common is to have a neutral/or protecting earth wire behind a lightswitch in the USA?

In my country they use the laziest connection possible, a single phase broken/joined by a switch.

So if i would like to install something behind the switch i couldn't really power it since i would not have a 'real' neutral/earth, my device would be in series with the lightbulb which is not good.
10 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
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>>935057
Where I live in the US it is code that you have to run the hot, the neutral and a ground to the box the switch is in. Only the hot has to be connected to the switch of course.
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>>935057
You sound dangerous. Plz consult with a real electrician.
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>>935066
I have an EE degree btw but i live in central europe, eelctricians here are low paid retards educated during the communism era, they wouldn't know shit about USA standards.

>>935059
That would be awesome. Is it varies by state? I have the US National Electrical Code in pdf format, could i find the info i need somewhere in there?

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Hey this probably seems really stupid to a lot of you guys, but i'm working on my first stencil and I need some input on how I should go about the layers. Here's my drawing, i found the original on google image and recreated it by hand.
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So the shadows inside the face, circled in red, i assume should be the first layer. And the hair & beard silhouette i assume should be the second layer. But how do i go about putting the details inside the hair and beard circled in green.
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Bummmmp
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Your thread will be here a week no need to bump.

Think about this. Stencil one is shape of the head but a black silhouette. Stencil two is the white of the face including the green highlights. Stencil 3 is the black of the details marked in red.

Spray fixative and proper registration will aid in the delicacies.
3m super77 is pretty gud, go lite on it though.

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So I accidentally let the old thread die. Anyway, I'm about halfway through this project now and this is the second test build, the first test build with one intake fan couldn't push enough air through the 100mm hose to cool the condenser. Now I've added an extra fan connected both into a 150mm hose, this set up theoretically delivers 890 cfm, although it could be more or less due to flow restrictions or the suction provided by the A/C unit.

If this build provides the cooling I want the next step is to work on streamlining it and making it tidy.

I'll...
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I have a single hose unit as well and was thinking of doing something similar. I'm definitely interested in more info and project updates.
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>>934305
>150mm hose
>890 cfm
pick one

you'd need 14" duct to move anywhere near 900cfm, with that 6" flex dryer duct your closer to 100cfm

Is the point of this train wreck to keep your rack mounted whatever cool? If so why dont you make an enclosure for the rack, and run chilled air through there, and put large box fans in the window to cycle the room air and keep the a/c happy

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Can you mix pipings?
For example, can I use http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/2-sch-40-pvc-90-sweep-elbow-soc-406-020s.html
with the 2" OD x 1-7/8" ID x 1/16" Wall Polycarbonate Tubing listed here?
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23791


Picture related is what I'm trying to do, if it matters.
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...
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>>934059
>http://www.harvel.com/piping-systems/harvel-pvc-pipe/schedule-40-80/dimensions
Ahh, alright. i assumed since it was meant for 2 inch pvc pipe it would fit a 2 inch whatever else pipe too?
If it helps I was going to use aquarium silicon in the joints anyway.
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>>934064
pipe - sizes indicate the Inside, because it's about flow through it and the exact inside size may vary a bit.

tubing - structural. The sizes indicate the outside size and it is the size it says, with little variation

but yea, using those, you'd have a 3/16 gap all around to fill.

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I'm opening a loan store, and I need the thing you slide money under. FYI, the teller will be protected by bullet proof glass
46 replies and 10 images submitted. Click here to view.
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a tray
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>>932676
look up ticket windows or transaction drawers. usually sold as a full unit.
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>>932689
>>932697
I found them on eBay. Any way to make one of these (out of wood even) or a cheaper place? No way I'm paying $130 for a tray

File: No.27+Maser+InstallationLORES.jpg (113 KB, 1000x571) Image search: [Google]
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I'm going to be working in a LASER and MASER lab and so I need LASER and MASER safety goggles sufficient for full spectrum of LASER and MASER optical safety for humans.

Does anyone know which LASER and MASER safety goggles I need to purchase and where to putchase them?

Thanks in advance, /diy/
13 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
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Your work should provide you with adequate safety gear.

Ask them what you need.
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>>934667
Well lasers work at different wavelengths
If you wanted to block all of the wavelengths then you need something opaque to all wavelengths.
Depending on the power you could use anything from a sheet of baking foil to a fire brick wrapped around your head.
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>>934667
Say "LASER and MASER" one more time, I dare you.

File: sewage.png (335 KB, 752x454) Image search: [Google]
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Hello, /diy/.
I need your advice.
This rough sketch in picrelated depicts a drain system in my house.
Figures 1 and 3 are maintenance pit with a hatch to the main shitpipe leading to the communal system.
Figure 2 point to the water level and a rusted-out hole beneath the maintenance hatch. Shit water doesn't come out of the hole, but the stench.
The only way to repair it is to replace the rusty maintenance hatch piece, but i can't afford it and welding is out of option, as it is completely rusted.

I searched for a provisional solution to keep...
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>>935070
your drawing is shit, post a picture
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>>935070
If its a sewage manhole in your basement you need a double sealing hatch otherwise poisonous poo gas will kill you in your sleep. Seriously.
There shouldn't be anything shit in the pipe. If there is a trap that has backed up or emptied washing it out might help
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>>935070
how big is the diameter of of the rusted hatch? Would a 5 gallon bucket cover it?

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Any tips on the circuits in a tank type rc car like pic related? Preferably with dc motors as its more for school
8 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
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Edit: It will jeed to have some sort of arduino because the remote i have is a 2ch trigger style and a 6ch one for planes etc. But type 2 so left stick throttle
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Well obviously you need two DC motor drivers
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>>934333
Im sure that would help, any suggestions? Im looking to run an 11.1v lipo with the two motors in parralel

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im currently a welding student at my local community college and ive gotten pretty decent at hot forging steels. i have stretched earlobes and i want to make myself a set of rings in 3/4 inch diameter. essentially my question is if hot forging 316l surgical stainless steel will reduce its resistance to corrosion(i dont want my lobes to get infected). basically i want to take a 3/4 inch piece of round stock, shape it into a circle(pic related), anneal it, polish it, sterilize it, and stick it in my ear. is this a bad idea or can it be done?
3 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
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Smithing things that are that small is difficult and a high skill task, but certainly doable. Especially if doing a simple shape like it sounds you are.

The steel surface that's exposed to air will oxidise while heated, and the iron oxide layer will not be corrosion resistant. You'll want to polish that back to bare stainless when you are done forging. That should be the only corrosion issue.
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>>933439
My blacksmith friend has just what you are describing. To make something truly corrosion resistant you need to clean it with acid (but can't recall what).
And if you are working with ordinary steel in the same room as stainless there will be dust which again will rust the stainless. Take it out for cleaning and use tools dedicated for stainless when you clean it.

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How difficult would it be to add a headphone out line to an amp? I was given for free a decent amp (pic related), and the only beef with it is no headphone jack.

I'm fairly handy with a soldering iron, but I've never worked on an amp before. I can't imagine it would be too tough...just wanted to see what ya'll thought...
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Headphones are shitty anyway. Just play it regular and loud.
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Just buy or build a headphone amp and plug it into the "pre out" jack. Or you can even try plugging your phones directly into it; I don't know if it'll be able to drive your headphones very loudly though.
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>>934888
What amp do you have?

If it's a good solid tube amp I'd rather get an isolation box and mic it up then use headphones on the interface.

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