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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 184. page
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this is my unfinished cold steel armor I have made. The pauldron is kind of mocked up at the momment it tends to slide off my shoulder from time to time but just wondering what anyone thinks haha been a little project on and off for a few months now.
86 replies and 18 images submitted. Click here to view.
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Find your local SCA group and ask them who locally does armoring, if you're nice to them they might show you how to dish steel to make proper elbow cops and knee cops.

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Hey /diy/

I have a question for u, how to cut open a porpane or butane gas canister if I have like 0 tools, but I can ask for some, what do u recomend?

>A tank like picrelated or smaller
29 replies and 8 images submitted. Click here to view.
>if I have like 0 tools

Wait for it to rust itself open.
Vent it safely first. Those thin sheet metal canisters aren't useful for much.

I suggest throwing the canister away, learning about tools, and gradually accumulating a potentially useful mix of tools over time. Used is fine, I get all sorts of good gear at yard sales.
Go to HF and buy an angle grinder. Also, you may kill yourself if you don't empty the tank properly and the latent propane explodes when it's exposed to a shower of sparks.

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I am selling marine (salt water) aquarium. It has build in return pipe in right corner. When I started I run it for few month without any lid till I noticed salt deposit on Wall just behind return pipe. In other words watter was splashing slightly on wall and that caused salt to build up on top of wallpaper.

I can not check level of damage at the moment as tank holds around 550 liters of water.

Any ideas how I could remove salt from wallpaper without damaging it?

Pic related - plan b
7 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Honestly you could just wipe it off with water
Not really. Salt is not only on top of wallpaper but penetrated it. To much water is taking colour of wallpaper. Checked that in another not visible area
Small amounts of water in large intervalls over long time? Withount rubbin the wallpaper?

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Ok /diy/
I admit, I've never posted here, and barely lurked, so if this thread isn't cool go ahead and ignore or delete, I don't mind
I got this vape and I really like it's look, but damn the thing is unstable and if I leave it standing up it'll probably get knocked over.
I'm pretty crafty, made a lot of at home solutions to thing, but I can't think of how to make a stand or way to stabilize it without making it look dumb.
So far my thoughts are rubber bands around the very bottom (ugly) or maybe some sticky tac in three little circles on the bottom, but I was hoping for some other ideas.
There is a usb plug at the very bottom, so if it's charging there's that to deal with.
13 replies and 6 images submitted. Click here to view.
You could build a wooden base pretty easily if you can access a lathe.
>without making it look dumb.
It's a vape, you're already at peak.

Just lie the fucking thing down.
How would an elastic band keep it upright?
Why don't you stick it up your fucking asshole you dumb fucking vapefags are the worst of the worst I would rather have everyone in the whole world smoke real cigarettes and blow the smoke directly into my eyes and mouth than have to see or hear from one of you fucking idiot douchebag cunts ever again.
God I really hope vaping is deadly and they just decided not to say anything to get rid of scumbag hipster trash retards.

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Query: Are thre any safety concerns using a plug in lamp dimmer switch with other non lamp electronical appliances?

I have a cat founatin whose pump is too powerand it creates splashes which scares the cats. I was thinking of getting the dimmer switch to make it a trickle that wouldn't splash.

The wife bought it and while typing this, I know wonder what advantages the fountain has over a bowl.
10 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
yes if the dimmer is a chopper type thing which inevitably it is then it wont work with inductive loads which is exactly what a motor is. well, it will work but the dimmer will be under a much greater load and could melt and explode.
this is why things like dimmers and occupancy sensors have different ratings depending on the lamp technology, fl, cfl, halogen, led etc.
Those motors that come inside cat fountains are usually pretty small and low current and, if I recall, have a disconnect plug half way down the wire. With a little bit of calculation, you may be able to insert a resistor in to the disconnect plug to throttle the motor down a little by limiting the current to the motor.
Strike that. Even though that solution may still work, first things first. Remove the pump from the cat bowl and look for a small knob on it. Turn the knob all the way down and reinstall the pump. Problem solved.

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At the risk of being called a hipster, I'm going to ask for advice. I'm interested in constructing a pair of alpargatas/espadrilles because I have terribly flat feet and need flat shoes. I'm disinterested in buying a pair because it seems most retail versions are poorly-built, and I think I could build a better one. Other than a few videos on youtube, no one seems to have a guide or books on how to make these, but it seems simple enough:
1. Produce rope braid
2. Wind rope braid into sole shape
3. Bind sole with thread
4. Cut and sew upper onto sole

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>I'm disinterested in buying a pair because it seems most retail versions are poorly-built, and I think I could build a better one.
the retail versions are also dirt cheap, and for the effort and time you'd spend making a pair, you easily could buy 4 pairs, and just replace them once they're fucked.
I know that, but I'm still not fond of the idea of thinking of my shoes as consumables, and additionally I think it would be interesting to make a pair.
>thinking of my shoes as consumables

If that's the case you clearly dont get out enough for this to be an issue.

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Hey /diy/! I have been into hobby robotics for about 6 years now. I already have a 3-d printer and I've been using the hell out of it for the last year. My problem is that the parts just aren't strong enough even printed in ABS on the bigger stuff I am doing. My questions are these: Are tabletop milling machines and lathes accurate and powerful enough? Mostly aluminum, with the occasional mild steel part, and on that stuff not much more than keyways and etc. What are some good brands? I have been saving for a while to buy some decent stuff, and I have found a full size Jet knee-type close to me for 1800, but it just seems overkill. That and the size is an issue too. Weight and size is going to make moving it a bitch. I'm using my utility room on my house, and while weight isn't an issue because of the slab floor, size certainly is. I figure I can put a tabletop lathe in the area too if I can use a tabletop milling machine. What do you people use?
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For hobby robotics they are enough.

For the hobbyist "cut out from sheetmetal and weld together" operation, I would recommend a cheap CNC mill. Hand cranking sucks.
>Are tabletop milling machines and lathes accurate and powerful enough?

>What are some good brands?
grizzly stocks parts for their machines in their us warehouse, when you break something it is a pain in the dick to wait for parts from china. in my understanding the small machines are all made in the same chinese factory, so brand is largely irrelevant.

> I have found a full size Jet knee-type close to me for 1800,
get it, Ive been very pleased with my jet mill, its easier to do small work on a big machine than vise versa

>Weight and size is going to make moving it a bitch.
i lift my mill with an automotive engine hoist, then roll it on pipes. i can move it by myself if i need to. i used the same engine hoist to move the lathe.

>What do you people use?
i have a jet jvm836 mill and a harbor freight 12x36 lathe.
ive had to order lathe parts from china, it took 11 weeks to get them. On the mill i have only ever had to replace the electrical switch, it shipped from cali and arrived within a week. i bought the lathe in 2000 and the mill in 2001.
Various thoughts-
1) your pic shows a round-column mill, and most people agree that square-column mills are more desirable as they don't lose the head accuracy if you adjust the head up and down
2) smaller mills are cheaper but conventional vertical mills are only really accurate over about the center 1/3 of the table's left-to-right movement. the weight of the table itself makes the whole thing sag if you crank it off to either side. ALL vertical mills do this, even the big & expensive ones.
3) no mini-mill I've ever seen has a nod adjustment on the head, so you can't tram them perfectly. only one mid-size mill I've ever seen (online) had it. All normal Bridgeport-style full-size mills have it. so if you want maximum-possible-accuracy, you must use a full-size mill that is trammed correctly
4) (In the US) Jet is often said to be the best of the mini-China/Taiwan metalworking machines. Grizzly is second-best, but has the best parts support. You get what you pay for.
5) I have a grizzly G0619 mill. The only thing I don't like is the lack of head nod. And I'd like to motorize it (or CNC it) but can't yet...
6) I also have a grizzly G9972Z lathe. It only threads one-way, so you can't cut backwards threads with it (some people make a gear to allow this tho). It is belt-drive so if you crash it, the belt just slips (I did that once). Mainly I wish it would turn slower than it does, the lowest speed is 150 RPMs and I'd like it better if it was 1/3 that--but the only way to change that is to electronically control the synchronous AC motor, which isn't cheap. Or convert it to a brushless motor, which also isn't cheap.

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Best cordless drill /diy/?

My battery type is out-of-production and I let two of my three batteries freeze (d'oh). My drills see heavy use in between sitting. I like a small light drill with good balance. Looking for Hobby pricing with Pro performance. Don't want kits and don't care about having a dozen "tools" that use the same battery- just a good racheting drill and a driver drill. Looking for batteries that last forever. I've had my current setup for 10+ years.

What's good these days for a cordless drill and driver (separate)...
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>Looking for Hobby pricing with Pro performance.
>Looking for batteries that last forever.

You be looking long time, anon. I've gone DeWalt 18v XR (Li-Ion) - which aint really a recommendation either, just, bound to be a few things in the range (what you dont need today, you will tomorrow, etc.) - bare (no batteries) tools are cheap, and, currently looking at OEM batteries for these, if anyone tried any/got any recommendations? Otherwise, carry on..
Batteries are more expensive than a new drill kit. That's why there are so many bare drills, it's cheaper to buy the kit and toss the drill.
Milwaukee M18 drill/driver combo. Tool stores will sometimes have specials where you get a free battery if you buy a bare tool. The trick is they want you to pay way too much for a charger. Buy a charger and extra batteries on Amazon.

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Good evening /diy/

I have this old expired co2 tank, used for paintball, that I don't want to throw away. Have you ever done any kind of project with old tanks? Could it be strong enough to be used as a crucible, so I can melt some aluminium. I tried google, but nothing came up.
I don't intend to repressurize it, unless you tell me it would be safe to use as a mini air compressor. Not particularly useful, but why not.
14 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
well if you fill it up with CO2 again, and get a pressure regulator, you can use it to charge up a pneumatic cannon.

What do you mean by expired? Do these things only last a limited number of pressurization cycles? If so that's a horrible design and it's probably aluminum. So you won't be able to use it as a crucible for aluminum.
By expired, I mean that they don't allow tanks that are something like 2-3+years ( don't quote me on this) at my paintball field. I already have a fiber one, so I have no use for the metal tank. And just by the weight of it, it's probably not aluminium.
If it's not past it's last hydro date it can still be hydro tested and used.
Since it's a metal compressed air bottle it's very unlikely it's expired, they simply haven't been around too long in paintball.

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So what's the deal with cell phone boosters/what experience do y'all have with them?
I'm in the US and inside I have around -110dB signal inside (enough to ring the phone, but not actually talk on it), but outside I get around -80dB (according to my phone). I can't go the easy microsite route because I have to use satellite internet, but from what I'm reading one of the repeater styles should work decently well for me (at least well enough to use my cell phone inside). The biggest thing I'm curious about beyond which are the best (I'm on...
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Protip: Call your cell provider and say you have poor reception in your house. They will often give you a booster.

AT&T just offered me one when I called in a month ago. They said my house qualified for one. Didn't bother since I actually get good reception.

For best results call customer retention and make it seem like you're going to switch to their competitor.
Nice, that'd be awesome if I could swing it. Thanks for the tip.

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Hey all, whats the best way to make fake car alarm blinking led? Source will be car's battery.
NE555/ circuit with 2 transistors/ 1 transistor cicuit (open base)? Ofcourse easiest way would be to use attiny, but that would be too dumb
6 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.
Just an LED that blinks?

...a flashing LED. You can literally get LED's that flash all on their without any external circuitry, other than the resistor.
i want it look more cool
now am thinking about 2 transistors circuit as far i know it should have stable frequency or i am wrong?
It'll be stable enough that you'd need an oscilloscope to measure any jitter, sure.

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What type of aerial connection is this?

8 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
The Belling-Lee connector or IEC 61169-2 radio-frequency coaxial connector of type 9,52, known colloquially in countries where it is used as a TV antenna connector, as a PAL antenna connector or simply as a TV aerial plug
That would be a coaxial...aerial connector.

As far as I'm aware they don't have any specific name to them. It's just an aerial connector.
Ah ok sweet cheers, just trying to find out what converter plug I'd need as I have to add more length for the cable to reach the tv

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Am trying to manufacture my own yoga mat out of industry grade material, not some fabric bullshit.

Is anyone familiar with the material used or the process undergone with making these mats?
11 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
I can buy medium/high density foam sheets from discount stores for like 2$. have you tried looking up "camping mat" or foam yoga mat online? it costs more to buy a specific quantity of a particular foam for a specialty job than it does to buy a finished product.
How much capital do you have?
I suspect it's polyurethane foam-rubber (this stuff: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOOdNyJjhD8). Which is easier to DIY than thermoplastic foams, but still trickier than buying that "Great Stuff" spray polyurethane foam and squirting it between two sheets of plywood (not all urethane foams are created equal).

Overall, I'm with these other guys; it's probably cheaper to just buy a yoga mat or some foam that's already extruded into sheet.

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Soup /diy/,

I'm planning on building a winter windsurfer using a snowboard and a windsurfing rig.

I just need some advice on what to use for the highlighted piece -- it needs to be strong, but not too strong that I can't drill into it to attach it to the swivel and bindings!

Also, what kind of thing would you recommend for a swivel? It needs to be strong, especially against torque (being pulled straight apart is not as much of an issue). Bonus points if it can only rotate through 180 degrees.
2 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Oh, and an addition: it would be nice to have something slanted to attach the bindings to. The rider has to lean backwards to balance out the force of the sail, so it would be nice to have it a little bit that way by default.

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Any suggestions on fixing this shitty clogged shower drain?

- Due to the 3rd-world design of the drain, there is no screw(s) to take out for it to be removed. It's just like glued into the shower floor.

- I tried using a plunger on the drain. That made it much worse. Now the water doesn't drain at all.

- I tried some dish detergent to lubricate the filth. Nothing. (worked once for me on a clogged toilet)

- I tried some boiling water, baking soda, and vinegar. Nothing.

If I can't get to the pipes from the basement tomorrow, I'm...
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try using drain-o or caustic acid
Stick your dick in it
the correct name is caustic soda

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