I want to play a really loud and high note on a speaker to annoy the idiots at a club 50 meters away from my house, i live on a second floor, have a fully functional balcony and can point a speaker directly at them if it's needed, so how should I do it?
What speaker should i use? What tone should i play to make it as annoying as possible? Is doing this legal?
I live in argentina, and 10 years ago my neighborhood was a residence place, but now it's filled with fucking night clubs. What they do is perfectly legal, they play music loud all the night,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>940108 But to answer your questions as they are, just get a megaphone, and constantly babble annoying things into it while pointing to the place you want to annoy, alternatively record an mp3 and then play it constantly
What I have right now is a coathanger antenna , VHF/UHF converter, coaxial cable, a vcr, a RCA video out and a projector. in an attempt to get local channels.
The VCR won't work as a converter because it's old as hell. I believe that i need a converter rather than an old VCR to take the signal coming in from the antenna and bring me footballs.
My question is, would an old cable box work? like something from charter or cox or time warner? something like that? or does that only take in X provider's... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
old boxes are made for analog broadcast signals. The entire US switched to digital several years ago. You're either going to need a newer converter box or a newer TV with a digital converter already in it.
That said I made a similar antenna and the reception is great. It works better than the shitty $15 box/antenna combo my roommate got from walmart.
google the manual for your TV to see if it's capable of receiving digital signals, aka ATSC. if so, use the settings to set it for digital, connect a wire to the RF input (or your coat-hanger monstrosity) and you're good to go.
if not, you need a $30 gadget, an ATSC receiver, like the super cheap DTA1080D. (dont get that one, it's just an example.)
>>939281 >I don't live in the USA the post Dentists are expensive as fuck if you don't have dental insurance. No, not medical, explicitly and specifically dental. Which is not commonly given at jobs unless it's a salaried position. Getting that tooth pulled could literally cost him upwards of $1500 depending on how much bullshit they make him do before hand.
>well you're a new patient so you need a checkup first >$200+ Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Anyone have input on the Miller Digital Elite VS the Lincoln Viking 3350 series?
Any input would be appreciated.
>my main question I don't understand why the Lincoln is "rated" for overhead welding and the Miller is not. Can the miller not handle getting hot metal sparks or globs bouncing off it or something?
The only other thing is the miller takes non standard lenses but it has that sweet arc magnetism sensor that eliminates getting flashed outside as extra protection along with the... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>938555 How do you access internet through your pc? Some kind of dial up/establish connection or does it happen automatically? Check the router manual if you can change WAN from the DSL phone jack port to LAN1. >>>/g/sqt
You'll need to put small resistors in series with the device and USB ports to balance them (a couple ohms). If you put two voltage sources in parallel without that one will supply a slightly higher voltage and all the current will be drawn from that one. This will make your PC shut down the higher USB port for drawing too much current, then the second one for drawing too much current. Batteries have their own internal resistance.
Can anyone explain why pic related is frying my 555 timer? I'm using the CMOS TLC555CP. It works fine at 6 volts but 9 fries it immediately. The highlighted 10 ohm resistor is actually a DC motor. The diode in parallel with it should be protecting the rest of the circuit from the voltage spike caused by the inductor. It's a 4148 diode rated at well over the frequency at which the circus operating. Any ideas?
So, I'm having trouble with my sound system in my truck. What it is doing: My subwoofer is trying to produce sound, every now and then it will hit, but immediately stop. From what I can tell, it might be my RCA cable, the guy who hooked up my system popped open my fuse box under the dash and wrapped it around a fuse before plugging it back in. It worked great until about a month ago. Fuse is not blown, and when I swapped fuses (moved the cable from one fuse to the other) it continues to do the same thing. Anyone have any advice so I don't have to re-run any cable?
>>941082 Check all wire connections. Most importantly your ground make sure its large enough gauge wire. Is the setting on your amp allowing the correct amps received from your headunit through the rca cords. is it wired properly to matching ohms value.
I am trying to soundproof a room in order to contain my roommates snoring. This is a low bass sound, so it is tricky.
I have planned a three phase project to reduce costs. (See diagram) The problem is soundproofing is expensive for a poor-fag like me, and I am trying to essentially make his snoring inaudible, even the low bass rumbling.
I have a couple questions then:
>Is there any sort of cheap material I could stick on the walls to first test where the best "hotspots" are?... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>941336 This is a mind over matter thing. Stop letting it get to you. It's not the snoring that's keeping you awake, it's you noticing the snoring, getting aggravated at the snoring which activates your sympathetic systems which keeps you awake. It's literally the same thing as like if someone gets chewed out at work/is expecting something bad to happen the next day, and can't fall asleep because of it.
If you really feel you need to do something, buy a loud ass fan to inject some white noise.
Acoustic foam is nothing but pretty to look at, especially to bass frequencies and foam, bass traps etc are basically room treatment not sound proofing. You'll be wasting your money.
For soundproofing done right it is usually effective to build airtight rooms within rooms. You need to decouple these from anything which can transmit vibrations and add mass to surfaces to reduce vibrations where you can't have a sufficient quantity of air.
The cheapest solution would be to build a sealed box around your bed and ventilate... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
how do i print my own silver coins? If got this piece of gold, and i would like to make coins. I would like very much a wolf/wolfhead on the coin, maybe a year as well, I planned to use around 8 gramm per coin. The gold is near pure and should be therefore very soft
pic related is from around 500 BC, i Think i should be able to be minimum as succesfull as the dudes back than
>tfw too /sci/ for /diy/ >tfw too /diy/ for /sci/ Anyone know this feel? If I post my ideas on /diy/ people complain it's too technical but if I post it on /sci/ they sperg that I havent used the latest theory.
OK so I need a breaker that will trip at 65A but its going to be at 84V. Anyone know of something that will work? How does different voltages affect breakers. Like can I use a 120v 65A breaker? Will it still trip at 65A?
Since most cheap breakers use a bi-metalic heating element, the trip is at the set current level regardless of the voltage. You can draw it out and do the math yourself, but the resistive metal strip that actually expands generates the same heat due simply to the current passing through it. Voltage in this case is only a reference to the insulation class.
>>940654 >Like can I use a 120v 65A breaker? Will it still trip at 65A?
Yes, if it doesn't have any electronic 'smarts' in it (like GFCI, Arc Fault, etc.) Smart breakers might still work at 85 Volts (how else would they operate when voltage dips during fault). But some operations (like closing) may not work properly.
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