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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 166. page
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Sup /diy/
My bro's birthday is coming up next month and I'm making him a handheld emulator for NES, Gameboy, etc., and I'm doing it with a Raspberry pi. The most interesting part is going to be the controls, for which I have bought an arduino pro mini. Ideally, I would like it to have 11 buttons on it (A, B, X, Y, L, R, up, down, left, right) and also a joystick. The arduino can handle all of those inputs, however my problem is that it doesn't have enough empty headers to use on the GPIO on the Raspberry pi (nor does the RPi contain enough empty GPIO pins...
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>>942226
Whoops, said 11 buttons and mentioned 10. It should probably have a start button too. I can answer any questions if they would help. Thanks in advance anons
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That's the way to do it.
Parallel load the button states then "shift" them out in serial.
If you use 2 8bit shift registers hook 'em in series.

Use a second pin for the register clock.
Another pin for load/shift select
>>
I2c, usart or spi can solve the problem, no need to bit bang a serial bus.
Are you going to use an rpi zero? Or the normal model? What kind of lcd are you thinking on?

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I'm going to start making tobacco smoking pipes, Is a scroll saw strong enough to cut 2 1/2-to-3" pieces of cherrywood or should I stick with a band saw? I like the idea of a scroll saw for the detail aspect.
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There are a TON of different sizes of scroll saw. I'd suggest going to a local woodturners or woodworkers meet up and asking them, if you aren't sure. There's sure to be at least one pipemaker.
>>
Use a jigsaw pussy
>>
Why do you need a scroll saw? You really shouldn't be using a saw for anything but the general shape. Then you throw it on a lathe, whittle, and sand.

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Sup /diy/,
Going to share my hacksaw build.

I have a junior hacksaw (6" blade), but no full size hacksaw. being on a tight budget i can only afford the blade. using some scrap metal, nails, wood and a few screws, I was able to make my own hacksaw and you can too.

The tools required are , left and right cutting tin snips, junior hacksaw, power drill, assorted drill bits, file, hammer, bench vise, 0.500 x 0.500 x 16" steel bar, 1/4 hex screwdriver, 3/8 wrench.

The materials needed are, hacksaw blade, 22 gauge sheet metal this can be taken from...
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Secondly the frame sections are formed. the frame sections are made by bending and hammering sheet metal on a 0.500 square bar as a mandrel. Cut the sheet metal to a width of 2.563" refer to the template for lengths. First bend is .125" in an L shape, Clamp the sheet metal with the mandrel in the vise with .125 of sheet metal above the mandrel. hammer the sheet metal to form a 90 deg bend. Continue forming the sheet metal around the bar forming a square tube. Slide the formed tube off the mandrel. Cut the tube to the required lengths.

Third the frame is connected...
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>>942176
Excellent work anon.
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>>942175
Looks pretty good.
You going to shape the handle for comfort?

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>fast
>super strong
>inexpensive

It just werks.
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>>942078
>inexpensive
Fucking where? They're always like $50 for a piece of plastic with two metal collars in it and a drill bit. I really want one still.
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>>942180
Then get a plastic block, a couple metal collars, and a drill bit.
Drill *degree holes in the plastic,
glue the metal collars in
and youre done.
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>>942180
Its really dumb that the vise grip is sold separately.

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Is there a way to make a weight to pull down with stronger force?

Something like a reverse pulley, that would make the thing at the end seem heavier?

(sorry if im being stupid, its just something i cant wrap my head around)
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>>942053
Gearing.
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>>942053
pulley in op gives no mechanical advantage

if you have a pulley that gives mechanical advantage then just swap the load with the ... other bit...
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like this OP

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should i drop like $200 on four 6-ton jack stands to get 24" of lift for working on my car?

or spend something like $20 on wood to make some solid 8" tall wood footings for my 16" jacks to sit on?
and if so, how should i build them?
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>>942021

if they slip, you're going to the emergency room.

I'd get the jack stands myself, but if you think you can safely build footings, just make sure they're secure as fuck and handle the load.
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>>942021
>spend something like $20 on wood to make some solid 8" tall wood footings
You're not going to be able to get enough wood to make stable cribbing for anywhere near $20.

Cribbing can be infinitely safer than using jackstands, but I'm 99% sure you don't know how to build up a proper crib.

Also, chinafreight those fuckers:
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-jack-stand-set-38847.html
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>>942028
that's why i'm asking; how do i make stable cribbing?

i was thinking a line of 2x6's standing on their end, maybe 4 or 5, with 2x8s sandwiched top and bottom. bolts through the 2x6's and screws down through the 2x8's into the 2x6's

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Have we hit the maximum power draw from a wall socket for computer power supplies?

American current is 120V at 60Hz and most houses allow for about 15 amps per circuit (correct me if I'm wrong) so this means:
watts = 1 × 15A × 120V = 1800W

Of course the wiring and breakers in a house will never be perfect, and there will usually be other things using power from a circuit in a house other than the PSU (lights, TV, ceiling fan, etc). So, if you had a 1600 watt PSU in your computer taking in the maximum power draw (which is completely possible, 4P board...
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>>941976
Before anyone else says anything, I'm just talking about home usage. Of course more powerful PSUs exceeding 2000w can be purchased but they are usually for server environments where the available amperage coming from the wall outlet would be much higher. There have been a few "home use" PSUs 2000 watts and higher, but I have never found one that isn't either complete shit or doesn't require two separate plugs from two separate circuits in your house.

Pic related, external 2000 watt PSU,...
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>>941976

I HIGHLY doubt a typical American house is wired for 15 amps.

In Australia a bog standard house connection is 75A @ 240Vrms = 18,000W

If you had less than 2kW then you wouldn't be able to run things like washing machines, driers, etc..
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>>941976
if anything we'll see more people putting in dedicated circuits for their PCs since obviously most people run them longer than 3 hours and you don't want to fry anything
I don't see any one upping the power on these because they don't want to risk anything

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After hunting down what was wrong with breakers in my new apartment (badly burnt insides of a breaker), I was wondering - is there a safe way to trip someone's breakers without harming the electronics and live through the ordeal?
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>plug in lots of things
>switch on lots of things
>repeat till overload trip, profit.

be easier just flipping them manually tho. They are not generally designed to kil the unwary. Bonus points for finding a 'Test' button.
>>
at the 100A fuse box just after the meter, you can reverse one phase with the neutral. this places 220V across plugs and lights, and should definitely pop the breakers without doing TOO MUCH damage to TVs and stereos.
>>
At work I always found the best way to trip a breaker is to drive a screw into the Romex

So, i'm thinking of doing a bear coat, like Blake uses in the second episode of Workaholics
Thing is, the coat part is prett easy to make, just sewing and stuff, but it's the bear part that kinda makes me a bit worried
Should i model it out of foam and then glue the faux fur on top? should i make the entire thing out of fur and then just stuff it with those fiber things that you get on pillows?
And for the teeth and claws, should i do it in clay and paint it later?
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>>941903
This project has pricked my interests.

This is the detailing from a commercial one that was for sale.
Head looks like it was constructed the same as plush/teddy bear.
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>>941903
Just use a real bear?

Not sure what the issue is here, it's not illegal to hunt them...
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>>941913
Yeah, this is the "official" one, even tho it doesn't look anything like the one he uses(it's just a shitty cash grab, actually)
The original is 100 dollars cheaper, but it's really difficult to find
The original looks like it's made of foam, instead of the plushy one from your pic, but i'm scared i'm gonna fuck up the fur when i try to glue it on the foam(and btw, is insulation foam the best foam to carve this out of?)

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I'm painting the plastic parts of my car interior, but the paint keeps doing this.
Does anyone know why this happens or how it can be prevented?
I applied 2 coats of plastic primer first, so that can't be it. Is it just shitty plastic?
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>>941875
If you proprly primed the surface, it's either some specialty paint (not compatible with primer), large amounts of moisture, poor cleaning or old paint.
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Those are "fish eyes" caused by impurities on the base. If it's automotive interior then it needs a major cleaning before any spraying due to numerous chemicals containing silicone, Armor-All to be specific. A good wax and grease remover and some elbow grease will get it off. DX-330 from PPG is my go to for cleaning interior panels. Remember to clean BEFORE you sand or else you risk embedding impurities into the substrate and you'll never get them out.
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>>941882
>>941886

Ok, thanks. I guess I didn't clean or sand the material good enough beforehand. This rubberish stuff tends to build up on VW MK4 interior plastic and maybe I didn't get it all off.
Is there any way to fill most of these holes up?
Do I just try to apply more layers of paint until most them are filled or would this be futile?

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Long shot /diy/

Where could one possibly go to acquire proprietary grade schematics?

Is my only option to have a "spy" on the side?

Please fuck off with "le google".
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>>941866
by designing them yourself or reverse engineering a product by taking it apart and measuring everything.

/thread
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>>941866

did you try BING?
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What kind of answer are you expecting?

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Not sure if this is the right board, but where do I shop for all my /diy/ needs? Specifically, small springs. The local place closed down several years ago and my weak googlefu wants me to buy in bulk.

I'm looking to replace the spring in picrelated with something weaker (it injects too fast as is). Alternatively, I want to make a variable speed autoinjection device, but I don't know where to start. The only one on the market I know of is the LISA, and it's too expensive for me on top of not being compatible with my syringes.
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>>941850
you can make your own custom springs with music wire
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Make a spring cylinder that has adjustable volume.
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>>941850
>Specifically, small springs.

In my experience, this is the hardest kind of thing to find. It's the perfect storm of "good fucking luck" factors: There's no standard, the equipment used to make them is specialized, and they're almost always made-to-order.

Honestly, the "buy some music wire and make your own" tends not to be that bad a suggestion. I keep a couple spools for this purpose, although I keep finding the stuff extremely useful for...
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Pun intended.. not mine. Pretty much just wanna share this build style.. the largest beams in the roof are only 8 inches wide. [measured] the total length of the place is roughly measured to 48x46 feet.

Some back story on the place as I know it; The house was deemed historical to the area, the company who bought the land to build huge ugly apartments was forced to move the building. and so they did... to where it is now. They did the crappiest job ever and didn't really give two flying fucks about the place; before they moved it, all the windows where intact, the...
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>>941722
Oh god i could jizz in every part of this house
Hnngg
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Noice. Reminds me of this guy I saw on YouTube a while back who would drive around the country finding log built homes. He'd buy some, or even be given them, take them down, then reassemble them back on his own property. Saving old homes with a lot of historical value is really badass. You should see if you can do something about it.

Pic: Moving a historical house down the river. House was built in the 1830s and is one of the earliest frame buildings in my county.
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>>941819
Thats cool. But I dont have land.. Otherwise I would give this a go.

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I have been working on my own SFF case design for nearly a year, and this is the first prototype. It fits a 240mm AIO cooler, full-size GPU, SFX PSU, ITX motherboard, and 2 hard drives all in about 10L of space.
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Looks really cute. How're the temps on it?

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So I'm looking to get a 10" diablo sawblade on my bed as as that's what I'm hearing is the best.
Looking to go full kerf so there's less flex in the blade.
Ideally I'd like to buy one blade for both crosscuts and rips, as i don't own a chop saw.

What would you guys recommend? How many teeth?
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Diablo is Freud's contractor line, not what you want if you want the cleanest cuts.

That itty bitty babby table saw would benefit from a thin kerf blade.

"Thin kerf is flexy" is a myth. The main benefit from full kerf is longer blade life and it will take more sharpenings before it's toast.

This is what I use and it's the bee's knees. I often hear that Forrest blades are the best, but I can't speak for them and they cost too much.
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>>941640
For a 10" blade, 48 is the usual amount on a combination blade. It's what I have on my saw (same as pic but yurop version) and I never really change it out except for the time I bought a Freud rip and combo blade which brings me onto >>941658
>"Thin kerf is flexy" is a myth.
I can safely say that it is not a myth. I originally bought a very good Axcaliber blade with a 3.2mm kerf and had no problems with it but only...
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>>941823
huh. were the fence/miter slots dead even with the blade?
I use a skillsaw blade in my tablesaw 90% of the time, deep enough depth of cut to go through 2x4's no problem, which is most of what I cut.

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