Hey guys /Gg/ here, I asked about this on /mu/ but there was no useful replies. How would I go about refinishing my sonic blue mustang to this custom 1966 custom Sparkle color? What would be a good step by step including > best way to strip original paint > spray paint or actual paint > lacquer or nitrocellulose > best spray companies and colors > could I make my own sparkle color with glitter and a shiny/metallic blue?... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>1. Take off all removable parts. From what I can tell that would be nearly everything that isn't blue or wood.
>2. Get some fine and rough sanding paper sheets. Use the rough one to remove all paint, then the fine one to smooth the surface. Remove all sawdust afterwards.
>3. Hang up the guitar and mask everything you don't want to paint. Use white spray foundation as a primer and apply one layer. After it has dried, apply one layer of your chosen paint,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Heatgun and a scraper for the paint removal. Trust me, sanding it off will take forever. Once the bulk of the paint is off you'll have to sand the primer off with some 80 grit, then once clean work your way up to 220. Make 100% sure you don't make any dips or anything while sanding. Keep it flat.Your paint job is only as good as your prep job.
Spray it with new primer. Then flat sand everything all over again once dry. Prep.
As for painting a lot of us use automotive paints and sprayers. Lightly sand between... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
In Russian prisons a snitches tattoos are removed as punishment by filing magnesium into a fine powder, then bandage the magnesium powder over the tattoo. This dissolves the skin and the tattoo with it.
But from OPs pic it might be a heat transfer foil print/embossment/transfer. When I used to do it at work. We placed a copper plate with the design on it into a heated cradle and placed that in a hiedleberg windmill press. Ours was mostly just stationary type paper. Could possibly screen print it too assuming you could find a decent ink.
>>942054 Top do this on the cheap the process isn't that complicated, it's exactly what you'd think, just push a metal negative into the book, then apply gold ink or whatever to the channel.
If your use a leather cover then this is super easy, otherwise if you are using a thinner cloth cover you might have to drive the depression into the book board itself. Not a huge hurdle if you are getting into bookbinding and have a proper press.
But if you want to do this the traditional way then it's considerably... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Is steel powder or steel shot more efficient? how much metal do I really need? what thread should I use for sewing? Is fishing line strong enough? Where could I get metal powder? I live in Serbia so no artist shops or DIY shops.
>>941214 I would hardly consider them weapons. A friend used to work as a bouncer in a very shitty town, and those kept his hands safe. >>941078 Your best bet is getting them online. You won't make them better than bought without spending more.
what the hell is that little metal thing called. I've tried anything from pipe screen to mesh bowl and I can't find anything anywhere? also not sure where to post this, if I'm in the wrong place would you kindly redirect me?
After about 10 years of use I decided to give my digital piano a "service" by taking out all the keys, cleaning them (lots of fluff, a fair bit of tobacco and even some drink splashes) and then re-greasing the mechanisms. I didn't have proper grease so I used Vaseline.
The keys feel nicer to the touch now but some keys sound significantly louder than others for the same level of pressure.
Looking at the MIDI velocities it produces verifies that some keys are more sensitive than others.
My question is how could I go about fixing it? What could I have done to make them inconsistent?
The pressure sensing system is simply a rubber dome with two conductors - one slightly longer than the other so it makes a connection first. It then measures the time between the first and second contact for the velocity.
I don't see how I could have interfered with that, so I'm guessing it's the physical keys (and the dummy hammers, etc, that give it the weighted feel).
Any ideas? It's driving me up the wall, what with certain notes sticking out like a sore thumb every time.
I thought about making an Arduino powered device that compensates the MIDI velocities directly, correcting the appropriate velocity bytes by consulting a table (that I'd have to generate myself, mostly through trial and error), but I'd rather make the keys respond uniformly like they used to.
is it a p60? the rubber contact strips are in groups (AFAIK) - If you had a range of 5 keys in a row that are responding differently, swap that strip (cheap) - if its non uniform/scattered - dunno. but the velocity measurement does come from the rubber dome/strips, as you noted.
I i frequently come around here, watching your fine projects. So it's natural, that i come here now for inspiration, hope you can give me some, because i didn't find something usefull googling it.
I have access to a few dozen older and newer skies, Nordic that is, so narrow and with a significant horizontal curve, a few old (70's) and a lot of newer. I work at a store that sells them, and every now and then, we have to trash some of them for various reasons, and now my boss has ordered me to clean up.
So, can you guys think of some... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I've been contemplating for a while the possibility of making an Eames Lounge Chair at home. I have one of those shitty office chairs for my daily use and it sucks. A gentleman like me, gracefully living with his parents, deserves a better seating, don't you think?
A couple months ago I started thinking more seriously about making it and I went and found some stuff showing disassembled chairs and schematics and all.
I've never bent wood, so I would need some advice on that. Also, the metal parts that join the back panels to the seating,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I've got an old cabinet door, with 35mm holes drilled partially thorough for integrated hinges, that look vaguely like this.
After fitting a new washing machine, I found that the old hinge locations no longer match up, so I need to drill new holes. This wouldn't be an issue, but the new holes would be close enough to the old ones for one of the top/bottom screws to fall within the area the old holes are, where there's now no longer any door for them to screw into.
So I need something to fill in these already very smooth holes, and provide enough... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
mix sawdust with some wood glue until its a paste... fill holes. let dry 24 hours. proceed to drill new holes. the glue and sawdust will actually be stonger than the wood and you should be able to put screws in without worry
>>942898 This seems like it's intended for small drill holes, I'm talking about a very large 35mm hole that needs to be at least partially filled.
>>942901 This is slightly more promising, but I'm not convinced that wood glue can set hard enough without any pressure hard enough.
I'm thinking if I drill some smaller holes around the circumference of the hole, that'll help whatever chunk of stuff I put in to stand up to the rigors of being... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
My Sony Xperia M4 Aua got into the pool 3 days ago (Irony) I put it into rice Can i fill a bowl with isopropyl alcohol and put it in there? I mean, will it work? Can't disassrmbe it(integrated battery) Anyone knows how to???
The rice thing is a myth. The only thing to do is to dry it out, which is best done by opening it up so air can get inside. Depending on the device, you can then clean any corroded pathways with electronics cleaner.
I'm not sure if this would work for phones in general, they may be too delicate for post-water-damage cleaning to work, but it certainly won't work if you can't disassemble it.
I wanna start printing designs on t shirts, whether as a serious thing or just for myself and buddies, time will tell. I've been looking at a lot of techniques, screen printing seems to be the most professional, but I also these transfer paper thingies, and I've seen textile factories use these. What would be the cheapest way to go about this, anything I should know that's important around this topic? And does transfer paper do the job well or does it fade shortly after?
The ink and emulsion is where it gets expensive. The screens are around 30 dollars a piece. If you want to get into screen printing I recommend a small two or four station machine before spending hundreds on a big elaborate machine.
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