I have a problem with concrete, i made some pillar foundations for fence with old cement and i think its not maturing at all, its been 2 days and is still dark i color and sandy. Is it fucked or is there still a chance for it to get hard ?
>>944034 It shouldn't take longer than a day. If it's taking a month to harden there's not enough cement in your mix. I'd only expect longer than a day or two at most if you were using flux additive or a dry mix with a large sand to cement ratio.
Proper ready mixed post-crete is hard within half an hour of pouring.
hello /diy/ i have old dr martens boots and i want to do something similar to pic related to them (pic 1 or 2, haven't decided yet) so can you tell me what is the best way to do that, which materials/techniques to use?
Recently acquired the shell of an two old cf-25 toughbooks. Thought i would gut, install new screen, keyboard and raspberry pi, with the goal of mobile computing.
Any suggestions for additional hardware that would be interesting/useful to integrate? only suggestion I've had so far has been a headphone amp/DAC for audio out.
What other cool stuff could I cram in there. There's heaps of spare real estate, all I have factored to fit so far is the rpi and its connectivity addons, li-po battery, charging circuit, new keyboard, a 15' LCD from a newer... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>942315 I would maybe suggest a Novena instead of rpi, it's actually almost designed for what you are trying to do. Might need to look at the dimensions etc, but it would be far more flexible and useful than a pi.
I went on vacation for a week and while I was gone, there was a lot of weird weather, so now I have ice dams. I've thrown RoofMelt up there and scraped as much off as I could. Would it be too late to get the heated cables at this point? Any other suggestions?
>>944612 I would say toss up more salt, but make sure it's properly temperature rated (regular rock salt isn't doing shit if you're sitting at like -15 F, for instance)...but I don't know how that shit reacts with stuff like wood/whatever kind of roofing you have.
Hey guys I am building my own raspberry pi portable for emulation and need help with power supply.
I have pic related as my PSU and it gives me approx 2 hours of run time. I want to increase the capacity of the battery so I am buying another one and am going to strip the second battery from the charging circuit and hook it up in parallel with the first battery. My question is, is it safe to do so and would it work? Will there be any issues with the charging circuit or the way its going to function? Thanks
>>943283 it might work, but cells have to be balanced to charge correctly. You probably want a 2-3 cell balanced pack. There are also cheapo chinese 10Ah supplies for cheap, which are also a good deal.
>>943289 see that 18650 (the battery there)? they store a lot of energy but that means that while you can't say drop a battery and it will combust, overcharging (causing a breakdown of the lion barrier) is a real risk.
If two cells aren't balanced, one could say get 2 A while the other got .1 A, and if the max charge of that cell was 1.5 A, then you'd have a problem.
Honestly lion battery packs are so cheap you can get a good one from amazon for really cheap rather than building one yourself because... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
My electric dryer isn't getting hot enough. It's probably the heating element, this one is like $25 to replace BUT I have another new HE for a different dryer that does fit and looks almost the same but is a different model number.
How safe would running a different heating element be?
If it gets warm when you first start it up its probably not the heating element. The exhaust vent could be clogged causing the hi limit to cut off the heat. Check that first, turn the dryer on and go outside and check where it blows out. If it's not blowing out strong that's your problem.
Hey /diy/ relative newcomer here. I'm interested in robots/drones and robot/drone accessories. Specifically I wanted to purchase a 3D printer and make the robots myself. What are the best places for the cameras and guts and such? There are a lot of places that sell these things but I was wondering what you guys recommend. I was going to make a cat toy as my first project. It would be a little RC bird/mouse hybrid thing capable of flying and driving around the house and obviously be durable enough to resist the kittys claws and teeth. Probably won't happen for a while... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>944526 Before you start fucking around with money for 3D printers, I would recommend getting an arduino kit and starting off with small simple projects. Also, I would reconsider trying to make a robot toy for a cat, seems like a waste of money in broken parts and materials.
>>944531 Arduino looks like cool shit, would definitely learn a lot.
As for the cat toy, I would just use it as a learning experience. And I would find out if I really wanted to continue down the path of making robots. Plus I want a 3D printer period. Shit is just plain cool and I'm sure there are things I'd want to do with it I haven't even thought of yet.
>>944537 3d printers are awesome. I have a printrbot simple and a velleman k8200. You'll love it but it's not plug and play shit. There's a steep learning curve. Anyway, I suggest you start from a project such as Polargraph (Google it). Limited moving parts, and you can code your own driving software as an exercise.
tl;dr: Any suggestions on leaded solder that doesn't smell like shit?
I've been using the roll of solder on the right for basically my whole life. My dad used the same stuff growing up, and he gave this to me when I moved out; it has to be at least 20 years old. Maybe it's just because I grew up with it, but the smoke actually smells pretty good.
I ran out recently and started using the roll on the left. It works fine, but it smells fucking awful. I start getting headaches if I solder for too long. I should probably set up a solder fume extractor... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hey guys, I've got a weird question and don't know where to ask it...
I am thinking about greenhouses, and I've decided the gothic arch style is best. It provides a ton of headroom though, so you could add a second level. But then some plants might get smothered. Is there some kind of "one way coating" that would bounce more sunlight across? That way it lets light it and reflects it a little.
Then I started thinking about underground greenhouses.... could you use a series of magnifying glasses to concentrate sunlight down a series of mirrors... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hello, /diy/, I have a question for you. Recently I've been reading about tendon-driven manipulators, and I want to build one for fun and learning. I think I got the idea for the arm and ropes itself, my question is about motors. What should I use? Servos, stepper motors, dc motors? Or maybe long-ass linear actuators? My goal would be to create something strong enough that it could beat an average human in arm wrestling. Assuming that whole thing does not break, how can I achieve required torque/force as cheaply as possible? I'm a student living in Poland, so delivery... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
The strongest thing you could realistically get is hydraulic servos. Naturally, these are complex and expensive. But ANYTHING you can use to pull the tendons will work. Cheapest practical option is probably going to be a geared stepper motor.
That being said, unless you kind of cheat a little (and use different kinematics than the human arm) or greatly limit the capabilities of your machine such that all it can really do is arm wrestle, you are never going to beat a human in a strength contest on a budget.... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>942520 Thanks for the UHMW tip, definitely going to try that. Hydraulics are probably out of my reach, will look into stepper motors. As I was poking around the Internet some more I found this video
Guy uses one drill motor set on high torque/low rpm to lift himself off the ground on a rope. And poking some more I found that quite a lot of people are selling old drills cheaply. Usually something about them is broken, but I guess I could try to repair it and salvage the motors? Of course... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
So, I just picked up a used Lexus LS 430. I already love it to death, but it does have some character. Little paint scuffs, but no dents or loose parts. All of that I can live with, but this steering wheel bugs me. While the dash has been cared for, the wheel is cracked all over from sun damage. I can live with the look, but I can feel the ridges when I drive. If it's actually wood, I could do something about it. The problem is that I have no clue. Anyone ever try to restore these before?
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