I suspect their process involves the application of heat, but I wonder if you could just arrange the PVC-insulated wires side-by-side around a large spool or roller, spritz a bit of acetone on it and let it weld the insulation together that way.
Adding mass is the simplest way to add NR performance to any partition (double concrete wall with an airgap has a great STC rating.) Since that is also the most expensive you might want to think in a different direction.
Think Sound Masking. Sound masking is the addition of an unobtrusive background sound, similar to HVAC airflow noise, to reduce the intelligibility of human speech and reduce distractions. The resulting environment leads to increased privacy and comfort.
Adding speakers, plus a small masking noise generator to any room is most likely your cheapest reliable method. It's a lot cheaper than hanging extra 3/8' gypboard on resillant channel isolators, adding flooting floor, and floating ceilings. Plus if you make it portable you can take it with you when you move.
>What can I nig rig to provide a reasonable level of sound insulation? Oops! you meant nig rig. Crank that base line up until your neighbors are deaf.
>>948013 >You have to create a second wall for decent soundproofing with space in between. Good answer, but first thing he should look at is the penetrations in the wall. Doors, windows, air vents, and electrical sockets all are the weakest point in heat and noise leaks and lower the performance rating of any wall. Seal those up first or you're throwing money away. Better doors, frames, and double windows help out a lot. Insuring wall sockets don't line up on opposite sides of the wall helps too.
Anyone knows a way I can erase what's written in a book? I have this hardback book that is honestly a total shit not even worth the read, and I'm wondering how can I erase all the ink in it because it's a nice book physically and I'd like to use it I'm thinking of working with either alcohol or acetone but I can't mess it up so I'd like opinions
So i moved into a new pad, but the kitchen light is a nightmare When i moved in the light was left on by the landlord (thanks for wasting power bitch) , and it was emitting a buzzing, which i investigated and found to be the bulb being improperly secured because the bayonet socket was broken and missing a lug that holds in the bulb, or so i thought. Ive removed the lightbulb and told the landlord to get their shit sorted, but ive now noticed the buzzing isnt coming from that broken socket, its coming from behind the cooker which is on the same wall as the light. But only... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
My grandfather had one that he made, it was a few years ago but I think he used a natural yew fork, he used rawhide as a wrapping for the two handle pieces and then shoved it up his ass and then fucked a dog.
just bought a 76' corvette. I have above average mechanical knowledge but relatively unfamiliar thus far with vehicles. The issue: can start OK and run while in neutral and applying gas, once gas is disengaged, idle drops below 500rpm and it stalls. The choke appears to be stuck? open. Is this likely to affect startup/idle in normal warm weather. conditions? (assume roughly 70 garage temp) Could adjusting the idle (fast or warm) be the solution? TL;DR: help me fuck with my carburetor.
I had a little 50cc piece of shit when I was 16. They make bolt-together "big bore" kits that crank it up to around 65cc for around $150. Never tried those but that's your best bet if you want massive improvement.
You can try tuning the carb with some wider jets. Those are pretty cheap and have a noticeable effect on performance in small engines.
Also, I know the bike that I had was designed for a small child and I weighed 200lbs when I got it so I mixed up the transmission... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
So what would be a good printer that can also do filler? Or is that no longer needed to make complex shapes?
Currently I was looking at a LulzBot TAZ 5 Desktop 3D Printer with 0.5 mm Nozzle http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01143UJK2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER But I'm not sure if that's a good idea, given my previous experience used a brown filler material to surround the print and offset it from the base.
Ok now thread. All of a sudden i have a very weird problem with my i3. After finishing the print in cura (at z height 10mm) i sent they z axis up for 140mm (around 150mm combined) to clean the nozzle which appeared to be blocked a bit. Since the max z height is set at about 185mm with a bit of clearance I was sure it won't hit the celling. But it did. So I measure how far up it actually traveled and it was around 190mm. I though it is weird since I did not change any FW settings for Z steps. Then I did a test. First I used Pronterface to sent it up 110mm. it went... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Posted this on /out/ but I'll try here. I found a dead goat with its head caught in the crook of a tree. Some animal tore its guts out, so the hide was hollowed out and was perfectly mummified by the elements. Looked similar to pic related. I harvested the pelt and want to make a bunch of rawhide. Only problem is it STINKS. I've washed it in soapy water, I've boiled it, I've immersed it in alcohol. After all this I sealed it in a bag full of baking soda and left it for six months. Not the slightest change; it still smells enough to make your toenails... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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