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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 146. page
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File: contemporary-tile.jpg (24 KB, 320x320) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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I apologise if this isn't the board for it, but I've got a question I think you guys could have some useful advice on.

I'll get straight to it.

Does anyone have any idea what a ballpark quote would be for tiling the lower half of an 8ft by 8ft bathrooms walls with 25cm x 40cm tiles?

Tiles would be supplied and I also have till adhesive.

Just the lower half of the room.
5 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Call a contractor in your area and ask you stupid fuck, we don't know where you live or what they charge.
baka. First off, tiles can be anywhere from $0.25 a sq.ft. for clearance ceramic to $30 a sq/ft for real stone mosaic, so that makes a big difference to price depending on what type of tiling you're going for.
Same question, for the bathroom, is it a shower stall that you're going to tile or is there a bathtub you won't have to tile space for. Are you just tiling the bottom 2' or are you going up to 5' or a standard 4'? Are you going to tile behind sink, or is there a built in cabinet?

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It can vary wildly, there is a lot of problems in things like this. I worked as a tile supply salesman, selling to contractors and regular people. I strongly recommend you do research.

There is a lot that goes into this things, although given what I have learned I could do everything but the shower pan myself if I had to.

Start with the basics. Talk to multiple contractors to get several bids. Check that they are licensed and insured, and ask to see references.

Also tile adhesive is cheap. I never...
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File: TheDungeon.jpg (41 KB, 600x450) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Hey DIYmons. I have a storm cellar that has a nice basement room in it located under the house, kinda like a half basement. It's about 6 ft. tall. There are 2 windows to this room on the side of the house.

I'd like to build an extension onto the back of the house so that this room can be accessed without exiting the building. The extension would contain the stairs to access the basement, and maybe a door to the backyard. The floor of the house sits about 4 ft. higher in the back than the opening to the storm cellar, and the air-conditioner is unfortunately located...
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File: DungeonWindows.png (275 KB, 419x336) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Here's a shot of the windows in the basement area.
>and the air-conditioner is unfortunately located directly to the left of the entrance (pic related).

Can you come off the upper floor of the house to the right of the basement access? What does the floor plan look like inside?
Without a shot of what's above your access door it's a shot in the dark here, but you won't get a much smaller stair footprint than spiral stairs. Unfortunately, they would make moving things in and out of the basement room a total pain in the ass, but still kind of possible since you have windows. It would take some measuring, lots of thinking, and maybe a little excavation to make them fit.

File: IIe Power Supply Inside.jpg (136 KB, 1280x960) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
IIe Power Supply Inside.jpg
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A thread about putting new computer parts into old computers.
57 replies and 19 images submitted. Click here to view.
So I bought a Sparc64/i386 dual chipset workstation today and am looking to make a high-powered server.

Anyone else working on a similar project or care to discuss?
old cases do not have ventilation that a modern computer requires.
get a new case
Well it already has a fan, vents, and ample space inside. I'm not getting a GPU.

Why would pic related not do the trick?

File: transformer, maybe.jpg (51 KB, 600x600) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
transformer, maybe.jpg
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If I have a step-down transformer leading to a peltier heating element that I want to control via duty cycle, where do I put the relay?

Do I put it between the transformer and load? Does this mean that the transformer is "always on" and wasting power?

Do I put it before the transformer, so the duty cycle includes the surge of the transformer activation? Will the transient nature of the transformer smooth my square wave duty cycle? Will the constant cycling cause any damage?

I'm a bit in the dark here when it comes to these sorts of high-power...
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This is typically done with a Triac on the primary side.
I know nothing about peltiers but a recifier and large smoothing capacitor on the secondary side will smooth any kind of inductive kick you could get.
Oh, alright, thanks! Yep, rectification would be involved.

So the inrush current wouldn't be a significant problem? I'm not sure what the switching frequency would have to be right now, but since it's a thermal system it wouldn't have to be too fast.

Is there anything specific or any particular resources out there about operating transformers on duty cycles?
You're going to be switching at 50/60 hz if you're using triacs or thyristors.
That's the only frequency you would want to switch to anyway if you're using those iron transformers as opposed to ferrite ones used in smps supplies.
> So the inrush current wouldn't be a significant problem?

What kind of transformer are we talking about here ? Typically, no - it wouldn't.

> Is there anything specific or any particular resources...
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File: really.jpg (40 KB, 609x608) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Is it true that rust is like a cancer, and if it is present it helps further the development of more rust, or is it just a folk myth?

I'm trying to decide if I should go through the hassle of taking a wire wheel to some of the more seriously rusted parts on an old but good bandsaw, or just spraying down the rust with oil and calling it a day.
35 replies and 7 images submitted. Click here to view.
You've never had a car in a northern coastal region have you?
Its true. The problem is two fold. Rust cause the metal to flake up and increases surface area. That allows more moisture to get near the metal and cause more rust. Moisture also gets between the layers of the rust and doesn't evaporate as quickly, causing even more rust. It also gets under any paint or coating (like chrome) that is protecting the metal. The coating flakes off and more metal is exposed to the air to get rusty. The oil will help but its best to remove the rust and protect it with paint or a wax for working surfaces (like the table of a bandsaw). You don't want to use an oil on the working surfaces because it can stain the wood and discolor it or cause problems with finishes. For non-working surfaces, the bed of a lathe for example, oil is fine because the wood wont touch areas.
Rust does breed more rust.

If your bandsaw can be disassembled easily...you might consider abrasive blasting or soda blasting the metal pieces.

I work in the steel industry and see all sorts of rust removal, with wire brushing being the most labor intensive.

If the rust is severe, disassemble and blast it.
If it is manageable, then a rust eating chemical works great with a brush.

File: sku_156018_1.jpg (38 KB, 600x600) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Hey /diy/nos,

I'm trying to design a controller for a reef aquarium so the first thing I want to get figured out is switching AC devices on/off. I've done some research and most diyers use these relays as pictured or the solid state relays attached to a micro but I want something that I don't need to worry about failing or burning down my apartment complex.

I do have a few years with electronics but none really with mains power. Is it realistic to think I can basically make a controllable 8 outlet power strip and not have it be a fire risk?

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As long as you figure out how many amps are going to be flowing through the relays and you have relays rated for that current there shouldn't be a fire hazard. Though, relays aren't really meant to be constantly energized so that may be a problem if you're planning to use them as a switch that's going to be on for a long time.
If you lived in Dallas, I'd give you 8 idecs and bases.
Look up idec (name brand) or icecube relays. You don't have to have bases, but they make it easier to mount. Those or RIBs are we use in a professional setting 99% of the time.
>Track mount relays are the last option, and only use them when space is the primary concern.
if you design can be clock based, use pic related

>relays aren't really meant to be constantly energized

File: 5mm_LED_RGB_4pin.jpg (95 KB, 800x800) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Sup Anons,

I have a somewhat interesting project, which I will share with you later when I am nearer to the completion of it, but for now I need your help.

I have 125 RGB LEDs. I have to controll every one of them individually, if possible with brightness regulation. What kind of a controller would I use? I can imagine controlling 5 or 6 normal LEDs, but 125 RGB ones kill my imagination. That's a total of 375 outputs I have to be able to control. What the fuck would I use?
19 replies and 3 images submitted. Click here to view.
You can use pretty much any microcontroller to do this. Just look up multiplexing and chaining shift registers, although codewise it will be pretty tedious.
That's a good idea I actually forgot to consider, thx!
Look up how people wire and control LED cubes. Exact same principle. You're going to need an Arduino and maybe some LED drivers.

File: IMG_20160218_190622689.jpg (2 MB, 2560x1920) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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I tried with /b/ but no luck, I need help on a Rube Goldberg project, I'm popping a balloon in 12 steps
7 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
Figure it out by yourself you incompetent faggot.
>>>/diy/ - Do My Homework For Me
So go look at some goldberg machines on jewtube, work out which particular stages are within your budget/skillet to make, then work out how to make those stages work together.

File: 0vkohler02.jpg (31 KB, 468x329) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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Hello gents,

I have access to a bunch of hemlock logs and a sawmill. I need to cut them all and sticker them up. I don't have a cut list for future projects- I'd like a generic one.

I know I'll be cutting a bunch of posts and beams for pseudo post and beam construction. I know I'd prefer 2x6 for stick frame so that I can insulate better, and/or rip in two for 2x3 construction when I don't need to insulate.

In my head, I should do a certain number (or percentage) of 6x6, the same for 2x6, the same for 1x. Then I'm lost. Is there...
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Are you sawing it to sell, or sawing it to use?
2x4, 2x8, 4x4
Sawing to use.
2x4 seems to small and only good for framing a stick built frame that won't take enough insulation. 4x4 also not big enough for post and beam construction. Why do you suggest 2x8s? Those, and x2 and x12 are teh ones I'm most unsure of.

File: 20160217_203557.jpg (3 MB, 4160x2340) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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So my bro recently gave me a broken MIDI keyboard. He said the only problem with it is that the USB connector (I think mini usb?) broke off of the circuit board. He tried to solder it back on, and it looks like he may have fucked it up beyond repair. Its pretty burnt, the green part of the board is coming up a little, and the actual component has solder all over it. My question: how do I check if it still works? I definitely need to buy a new mini usb because their is solder all over the four little prongs on the back. But I want to check if it would even work before I waste...
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It looks like all the electrical contacts are still fine. Those four large pads are just to hold the socket on the board. Cut a USB extension cord in half and solder each of the wires individually. You should be able to figure out which wire goes where with a continuity tester or by looking at the old socket. Then you'll have to find some way to securely hold the cord, because any tension will just break all those solder joints.
File: USB-Mini-B-Pinout.gif (46 KB, 597x486) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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you dont have to trace shit
its already done
Wow, I didn't even think about that. How will I solder each wire though? I feel like that is a really small space, and I am by no means experienced. Is it a problem if solder holding one wire in place is touching the solder from another?
And thank you for the diagram!

File: DSC_0911.png (858 KB, 960x720) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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My parent's cat decided to piss on some clothes on the floor in my closet and it got on the carpet. I washed the area of the carpet with soapy water and then covered it with baking soda overnight and vacuumed it up today.

I thought that it would be helpful to use a fan to get some airflow to help get any remaining smells out, so I pointed the fan at the closet and turned it on at the highest speed...I keep a lot of books and records and stuff in my closet, so I'm paranoid about any remaining smell lingering on them. I'm wondering if this is the best approach...
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Look for "Nature's Miracle"

It's pretty good at removing stains and odors from animals.
i'm sorry op but you will never get that smell out
it will always be there
you can use whatever chemicals, wash it as much has you like, you will still occasionally catch the smell out of the corner of your nose and it will drive you crazy never being quite sure if your stuff is clean.

i'm sorry for cat people, i like cats too, but they are animals. animals don't understand not to poop and piss and puke everywhere.

i realise its your parents cat but if you value your posessions you...
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Male cat?
Don't worry. It's going to continue to do so.

File: WP_20160217_002.jpg (204 KB, 1278x720) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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14 replies and 2 images submitted. Click here to view.

waste of vinyl. plus I wouldnt put food in that...
And what have you built recently faggot?
Melting down an old record isnt building anything either.

File: IMG_20160218_114333.jpg (527 KB, 1280x720) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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I'm not sure if this should go here or /o/ but i need some help, i've got a grand am gt 2004 and i'm looking to replace the rear 6x9s

turns out the care has a Monsoon sound system, and these are speakers that have 4 wires on them

i've already changed the stock head unit to an aftermarket pioneer kind

i'd rather not order new stock speakers, as i've already got good replacements and the new stock replacements would be expensive. i understand that if i only use 2 wires instead of all four i will lose some sound quality

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7 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
You just run one double wire from the speaker to the head unit. The way it's intended to go in any other car. Why would you do it any other way?
a little googling gives me info about the cars stock amp splitting the tweeter and sub signals, which is why you have 4 wires.
your best bet is to grab a 2/3 way speaker and then cut the tweeter lines then connect the main sub and tweeter separately to their corresponding feeds
these new GTO938s are three way speakers

but like >>948615
said, since i've got a new head unit, (used a wiring harness for the switch), does that mean i should just redo the wiring for them and replace the wires that go into the harness? cause that seems like a ton of work.

but if i just cut the tweeter lines and sub lines to separate will that diminish any quality? dumb question, but which ones are the tweeter and sub? and also, in OP pic theres...
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File: flow_man_machine.jpg (23 KB, 500x242) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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I am planning on making an automated greenhouse system with some human controlled elements. I recently received a Makey Makey board, which allows you to create human Interface devices simply with strange materials. Thus has inspired me to make something more interesting than a few switches or a touch screen. I am thinking of doing something made of stone and wood or something similar. I want the interface device to look at place in the greenhouse, not something alien and yet be simple to interact with.

Tl;dr help me come up with a unique, durable human Interface device

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I was thinking of maybe using something like pic related, carving out designs in the bamboo lid in order to represent the different controls and have some sort of metal pin pushed through to conduct.
Have you had a chance to test it?
I've been curious about it.
If i were you i'd get some copper (or whatever) wire, route/chisel whatever your design into the bamboo, drill a hole in one of the trenches made, pull some wire through (to connect to the board), solder end of wire to the copper wire and then inlay the routings with your copper wire, hammer and sand flat.

File: F79BMPWIDUQSK6B.SQUARE.jpg (4 KB, 75x75) Image search: [iqdb] [SauceNao] [Google]
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If the battery provides 4.5 volts and the led I want to use takes in 3 volts will that work? Like will the other components (speaker) not have enough power from the led taking in more than usual power?
6 replies and 1 images submitted. Click here to view.
if battery voltage is higher than led forward voltage a resistor is required.
the resistor value will set the power the led will use. try a value that is bright enough, not too bright.

this is something that you shouldn't worry about

for a standard jellybean LED just throw in 1k unless you are working with unusually high power. otherwise just get a 10k pot, and test it.
Use a resistor to drop the extra 1.5V (and limit current).
Resistor_Value = 1.5Volts / LEDamps

So an LED rated 20mA would need a R of:
R = 1.5/0.02 = 75ohms

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