Sorry if I'm hijacking a bit, but figured there's no need to make a separate CNC thread.
Was thinking of graduating from simple electronics/uC DIY into something more physical. Figured getting myself a CNC would be a good stepping stone into making other stuff.
Anyone could point me in the right direction for good DIY CNC resources? Google seems to give me some dubious hits. And how much would I be looking at? I'm fine DIY'ing mostly everything, though I've never done anything similar.
I just cut down a big ass apple tree and would like to do something with the wood. I already cut the logs up to about 4.5 long to make them manageable, so I don't have anything longer than that. I could put a ripping chain on my chainsaw and try to make boards, but I've never done it before. Don't know how well that will turn out. Looking for any ideas or advice. Do I have to cure the wood somehow?
Also, I have access to a woodworking shop. I rent it for storage while the owner is away in the winter. He said I coud use his tools, but I'm not... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>952573 Unless there is some sort of microcontroller in the pack(s), similar to what a laptop battery has, that will brick the entire pack if you de-power it (by disconnecting the cells), then it should just be a matter of replacing all the cells with the same part number, preferably from the same manufacturer. Theoretically, that is.
This might be a bit weird but maybe someone will know this stuff better than me. I need to re thread this wooden screw in handle, while keeping as much of the original parts as possible. The 1870's threading must have worn out, and the previous owner had glued the handle in place. I managed to separate it and I intend to re thread both the handle and receiver with nice metal hardware. My original plan was to use a drill and expand the hole, and crazy glue in a nut. The wooden handle will have the wood screw part sawed off, and a new metal bolt in it's place, which... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>952531 I looked at these but I would need one custom cut at 1/4'' long. (can any online stores do this?) Another option is a plastic insert since I can file it down, but it doesn't seem like they exist without metal threading inside.
>>950764 Google myfordboy or mrpete222 (or tubalcain). Both do a pretty good job casting aluminum. Myfordboy does more mould prep, but he doesn't talk, and makes it look WAY too easy. Dude goes from nothing to a rammed up mould in like, 5 minutes it seems.
Don't have a pic, but I used the lost foam/wax/plastic method to cast a model engine block once. Basically the process is this:
>make a flammable/meltable version of what you want. I 3D printed mine in PLA. >attach sprues >seat in the center of a mold >make 50/50 mix of Plaster of Paris and play sand >mix in just enough water to make it flow easily >pour into mould >let set >clean up the area around the sprues so metal will flow into them more readily >heat forge built in separate project >leave mold in forge for an hour or so with airblast >turn air off, leave mold in the forge overnight >tadaa, cavity of what you want >pour in molten aluminum >break open mold
That's the idea. Google "lost PLA casting". Beyond that, it's mostly trial and error to figure out the best way to design and orient the part, sprues, vents, etc. Keep in mind you should fill from the highest point and have a place for the air to go. Gaps smaller than ~1 or 2mm are going to be hard for the aluminum to flow into. If it's a complex part, your best option is to cast a rough shape and machine the rest.
Hey so I'm thinking about building a portable shed (basically just putting wheels on it to avoid taxes) and was wondering about trying to do a thin concrete floor. I was going to go for a 2"-4" layer but didn't know if that sounded like a bad idea or if there may be any unknown complications in trying. In case it make a difference I was going to do a 6'X8' floor. Thanks in advance.
Sup guys have this old bike that was sitting for about 9 years, before it was sitting it had a bad back tire and tube. What would need to be gone through to make it operable again? I plan on using it for local bike trails and such. How much could this cost me at local bike shop?
>>949749 Don't bother with it. The drive train is rusted to shit, the tires and tubes are shot, the suspension is a joke, the brake lines will need replacing and its a shit $99 dollar Walmart special to begin with. You will literally spend more on good tubes and tires than that thing is worth in its current condition.
Get yourself a good quality bike used off of CL or at a yard sale or something and fix up that.
>>949749 Really, all you need is a new tube and tire for the back wheel, and likely a new tube and maybe tire for the front wheel, depending on shape.
You should probably put on a new chain, too. Ignore what >>949756 said, New tubes and a tire would only cost you about $30, it's new rims that are expensive. You don't need to buy super high end racing bike shit.
I came up with a new motorbike helmet concept that utilizes panels with large springs under them which deploy when triggered by hitting the ground, thereby increasing the impulse of the collision between head and ground/object.
Benefits are a much thinner and lighter helmet with more protection.
/diy/ not sure how many threads you get like this, but...
I'm tired of my career. I went to school to be an English teacher and it turned into a solid dead end. Graduated with my Master's in English Education in 2008 into the height of the recession and housing crisis. I hacked it out as an Adjunct professor at a local Community College making peanuts and wouldn't have been able to survive had my parents not made up the slack in my pay.
I later went on to work at the family business in insurance because the money got so bad and there were few if any opportunities to be had. I've worked for the last 4 years as an Insurance Consultant, and I've done a huge variety of work beyond advising clients on health insurance - worker's comp adjuster, paralegal, risk manager, and more.
At the end of the day though, it's all smoke. I give the client advice, they pay the firm, the firm pays me about $15 an hour. Every now and then my dad tries to slip me some money under the table to make up the difference, but living on the charity of my father has gotten old as I've crossed 30 years old. I see peers in law and similar professions making double or triple what I am, and moreover: enjoying their work. Me? I'm no slouch at what I do (important clients wouldn't have stuck around if I didn't do good work) but getting paid a pittance in comparison to the market and working for dad has long since worn on me.
So I want to make a change - before it's too late. Before I truly get too old and there's no turning back. I'm 31 right now.
Always wanted to make something with my hands - something useful using a body of technical knowledge. I've looked into stuff like welding, or a similar trade in fabrication. Something where I can use my skill to create a useful, practical product. In insurance it's all too often the sum of your work just winds up being a piece of paper or words in a contract that people gloss over.
Check out the options for trades training in your area. Welding, from what I know is the easiest to get certified. A friend of mine makes $25 an hour for it. You may have to look hard for info though. It took me forever to find info on a electrician apprenticeship program in my area.
So my life plan has kinda fallen apart lately and I find myself thinking about picking up a trade.
Background information. I'm almost 25, very little shop experience, over the past year have gotten into DIY stuff for fun but am still a amateur. Pretty much was planning on going back to uni in September, but just got fucked out of a large sum of cash and am starting to think going to school until I am 31-32 and ending up in $80,000 or more in debt isn't a good idea. That I should just move on with my life and find work that pays and afford to move out with the... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Welder: Easy cert, available from many CC's. Crap job conditions; hot, industrial. Average pay.
Electrician: More difficult cert, requires on the job or tech school. Conditions highly variable, but generally not crawling around in dirt (eg, plumber). Good pay.
Plumber: Highly variable depending on local businesses. Lousy work conditions, good pay.
EMT: Easy cert (6 weeks from a professional school, 1 year from a CC), work conditions vary immensely depending on who you work for. Comes with a large self esteem boost and automatic respect of peers. Requires... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
if you wanna work in manufacturing, move to china. if you wanna eat, look for gigs where you take care of old people in their homes. under the table: no taxes for Wynn to waste. word of mouth gets you more clients than you can handle.
TLDR: How to safely encapsulate fragile popcorn ceiling with non-toxic paint?
So I'm living under this old popcorn ceiling which hasn't been painted over since it was sprayed on over 50 years ago. Behind it is rough unfinished ceiling. It likely contains a small amount of asbestos, as was common in the '60s, and I am worried what would happen if there is another epic earthquake here in Cali, and thinking about all the times during childhood when I threw things at the ceiling, and other times accidently scraped against it.
I really want to just get... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
The reviews are 50/50 so you may need to mod it a bit to be able to use it upside down. Maybe unscrew the paint cup holder and run a seperate plastic tube into it instead to feed the paint. You'll also want some plastic drop cloths from Home Depot, they're about $2 for a 9' x 12' thin plastic tarp. Use painters tape to mask off the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling, then tape the tarp just below... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I want to build myself a VR headset, and Im wondering which of the many ways to do this is best. Right now Im thinking that copying OpenVR with a better screen would be the easiest, as Vireo Perception works pretty well and all the software is ready to go. On the other hand, it is possible to clone a legit Oculus Rift by using that one ARM board and doing some black magic with EEPROMs, though I dont know if it will be worth having something that will work with stuff designed for the OR in the long run when it's just a fake dev kit 1. Anyone ever attempted this before?
>>950977 why the fuck isnt there open source virtual reality yet? >two screens >two lenses >two game cameras that view things from a slightly different location >bool accelerometer = is_accelerometer_present(); >if(accelerometer) do_motion_things(); >else continue; >if(gyro) >if(ir)
the... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>952178 I'd tottaly support an open source VR device. But to be hosnet, you don't need 2 sceens, just split one, lenses need to be adjustable too. The hard part is getting the motion sensors tuned up. But i figure someone way smarter than me can iplement acelerometers and gyrometers? The softwere is the easy part. Reverse engi some of the stuff that's out there alredy. Edit it enough to a point where you can relese the shit under an open source license pada bing bada boom
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