Thought i'd post my progress on my guitar so far. After I burned the Lichtenberg pattern in, I let it dry for about a week and stained it over the weekend. The water from the pattern caused the grain to come out a bit but i didn't want to sand it to avoid removing some of the finer detals in the pattern. Stain came out alright, though.
I still need to wire it up and install the hardware. The kit I got came with hardware but I might buy new stuff. What it came with is kinda shitty.
These are the pegs for the bridge, which are a real piece of shit. As you can see, one peg is noticeably smaller than the other, and slips in and out of its hole real easy. I think I might just buy a proper bridge.
Also, I had some gold leaf laying around and I thought it would be neat to use it shield the cavities. I know most people use copper tape but I thought this would work just as well. I tested it with a 9v battery and its definitely conductive, so i think it should work well enough. It might not make a difference but no harm in it
I'm trying to a build an ADB to USB adaptor, I've got a SparkFun Pro Micro which just has wires shoved in to the big curly cable coming from my SMK Apple Keyboard II. I've got VCC and GND on the Micro connected to the right pins on the ADB cable and I've got a 1K Ohm pull up resistor between VCC and the data cable which is plugged into the right place but as far as which port on the Pro Micro I'm supposed to plug it into goes I have no idea so I phoned a friend and he said port 5. Everything's done according... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>954163 I did calculations ages ago for this shit. you'd need to pedal for 8 hours straight to make about 7c worth of energy. why spend a whole day pedaling when you could just pay 7c? this was the whole point of electrification.
>working on something >fuck something up/injure myself >say "ah fuck" or "fuckin cunt" >get back to work >annoyance begins to quickly subside >female roommate pokes her head into the room >tells me to "calm down" >annoyance turns to genuine anger
>>952152 >go to work >continue the project from the other day ~80% done >the boss's wife is around (complete imbecile, that don't know shit about carpentry, but since its small business she thinks she has power over others) >hey anon, you can't put this big screws in that chair >why ? >they look bad >but... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Post categories of tools where quality doesn't matter so you should just get the cheapest ones you can get.
For example: Sockets. Your typical Harbor Freight sockets will last you just as long and work just as well as the Snap-On equivalent and as such, it would take a tremendous idiot to pay the Snap-On surcharge.
And here's an example of a tool category precisely opposite of sockets: Saw blades. Better quality saw blades have such improved cutting performance and leave such a finer finish on work, that it's easily worth paying 3x more for the quality stuff.
So I made my own cooling vest out of some duct tape and cooling mats. Looks very terrorist, but I'm only going to be wearing it around my house so meh.
It works well, but it only lasts for an hour or so. I want to figure out a way to make it last longer.
The cooling pads I use now are chilled to 4C in the fridge. Icepacks would last longer, but are too cold to comfortably wear so I'm looking for a way to have a solution that freezes at 5-10C so the cooling pads would be solid in the fridge, and melt as they absorb body heat.
There are commercial... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Old one is sliding to oblivion, time for a /QTDDTOT/ reroll.
I have just pulled the voice board out of an old Yamaha organ, it delivers A - G through various outputs simultaneously, I want to throw some frequency dividers at it, tack some time based effects on it and turn it into a drone box, but I am confused about the power. I have never seen labeling like this before. Pic related shows its inputs. They are labelled V and -12. The -12 pads goes to the negative side of the electrocap, assumedly serving as a decoupler. I can connect any old 12V supply to this, as long... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I have a power strip with a switch similar to pic. Recently it started having issues where the light in the switch would start flickering and correspondignly the plugged in appliances were only sporadically receiving electricity. This occurs both with and without appliances plugged in. What could be the cause of this? Unfortunately I’m missing the right screw driver for safety screws so opening it up is not an option. I’m mainly asking out of curiosity since I don’t intend to fuck around with electricity, but I can’t figure out what might be the cause of such a... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hey /diy checkout my shitty homemade air ioniser, I know there's high voltage on the hairs, but is the 4Kv that it's generating enough to ionize air molecules ? I know it produces high voltage because it bends a flame when I put it near the hairs.
>>960580 It took me less than an hour to build. Its uneven because I'm shitty and not an OCD maniac. Resistor J was too high so I replaced with Q iirc. >>960583 Thanks, where do I get the carbon hairs from ? Are the wires still OK ? This thing costs me less than 2$ to build literally. Nice Tesla coil BTW..
I know this should go on /g/ or /adv/ but /g/ has a no technical support rulre and you guys might help more than /adv/ since there is DIY here. I picked up an HP dv6324us for $50, its shit I know but it seems like a pretty good deal but it turns out its just freezes during startup or screen doesn't turn on at all. At first I thought it was the HDD becuase the HDD light didn't turn on but later research turns out that if I press on the palm rest and it works than it means it's the GPU which I did and it worked . So according to what I read, I am supposed to put... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I dont know where else to ask this question, and I will try to phrase the question properly but I want you to understand what I mean so first this:
When I try to create a lampshade, or make a desk, or even modify a computer case, somehow it is never as good as the best I see online by DIYers or top company designers or even gifted amateurs, so what am I doing wrong? How do people learn how to make things so they look great. I mean I know a team of people would work to design, lets say, a sports car and when you look at it the thing is perfect its just so fuckin good. Another... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>960252 Hey thank you for the reply. What you are saying is true but when i look online at the workshops of people who design stuff they have machines that cost $$$$$$megadollars and I just have hand tools and a few cheap electrical tools. are the tools important do I really need pipe bending machines and sandblasters and lathes etc. Is it down to having expensive machinery?
>>960245 when you are making something and you think oh shit, i could have done x differently, or when you finish and think hmmm, it looks shit because of x. remember these things and then do them differently next time.
alternatively consider that it looks shit to you because you made it. sometimes beauty comes from what we cant see, if you made something then there is no mystery to it and so to you its plain.
if it looks bad but you dont know why then you are fucked sorry.
>>960238 If it's solid, can't quite tell from the pic, you could use a couple of steel dowels, say 1/4", drill into the plastic, THEN two part epoxy those in. If it's not solid, you'd have to use a lot of epoxy with said dowels (enough to get it a few inches inside the cavity) and it'd be questionable.
I'm a waiter at a restaurant and non-slip shoes save me from falling down several times a week. The kitchen at work is slick, greasy and I often tread over bits of melting ice on the floor. There are lots of shoes designed specifically for this purpose, but many of them are super ugly.
I have this super comfy pair of boots that I would love to wear at work, but they are definitely not slip-resistant. I would like to apply a little /diy/ magic to the bottom of these boots if possible.
I have tried buying adhesive supposed non-slip stickers... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>960188 shoes that have non-slip soles have something done to them called "siping", it is basically cutting lots of little slits into the sole of the shoe. The slits just need to be 1/16" or so deep with a razor blade, maybe 1/8" apart, you don't have to actually dig out grooves in the rubber. (the sole also has to be basically flexible; siping works less well on harder materials)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siping_%28rubber%29 The wiki article don't show shit, in this instance... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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