Well I've got some problems . It seems I'm screwed. I tried to get my seized power steering out but 2 bolt heads broke of its so rusted. And I also cant get the old driver seat out because the bolts stripped. I also can't drive without power steering. The belt tensioner is on the power steering and it broke of the god damn pump. So I can't drive it. What should I do?
>>959818 Sweet jesus that is a rusty engine. Did you pull it out of a lake or something?
You're probably going to have to drill out the old bolts now, which is a bitch but doable. Following that, I think you'll have to retap the holes in the engine for a larger size thread to remount the PS pump.
There might be an extractor that will help you, but not until you unseize those threads. Get some damn Kroil if your shit is that rusty, it kicks WD-40's ass.
Don't know if this is thread worth, but I'm planning on building a medal/coin holder in wood. Its going to be a stand, I have everything worked out, my only problem is, I want to make circular sockets to fit the coins in snuggly. What tool do I need to do this? Every tool I currently have would just end up cutting a perfect hole through the wood, which is obviously not what I want. It would be like pic related, you know those coin books that hold quarters? With sockets cut just to their proportion? I was then going to line the wood and sockets with velvet or some nice... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I have an idea for a business which sells custom 'water tobacco pipes'. The idea is that I will set up a website where customers can choose from a range of designs and colors and these will be 3d printed and sent to them. Ideally they would be able to do something cool like upload a photograph of their face and they would get a pipe that looks like them. I was thinking 3d printing would be the best as I don't know how to make the pipes and I think it will sell well because 3d printing seems to be all the rage these days. Do you people think this would work... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Hello, this is my first time posting on /diy/ as I figured this was the best place to post these questions. Anyway, what kind of ingot do I have here? It is very heavy and is shiny when melted down. It also has a low melting point (lower than aluminum). >pic related
Yes, but you're going to have to gut them to at least remove or shrink those windows and accommodate additional plumbing for the shower head and shower surround (DIY cheap --> remove the tub entirely and buy a $300 fiberglass tub and shower surround). Adding an exhaust fan is trivial but you'll need one around 100 cfm.
So I have access to large amounts of fruits, typically from just over ordering and they don't get sold as fast as they could, and because they don't look "editable" or have started to slightly soften, they get tossed. Now, I don't have to climb into any dumpster or anything to get them, the manager of the kitchen just lets me have them if I want them. Even though they aren't suppose to do this because liability reasons.
first of all, googling "canning resources" or something like that, gives me an over whelming amount of hits and every one is pretty much got its own secrete sauce. so I would maybe like a book, or if someone knows a really reliable resource on the internet that works good too.
So far my understanding of canning is: acquire jars. clean jars with soap and water and rinse out all the soap residue and drop them into a pot of water at or above 180 fahrenheit or 82 centigrade for 10 minutes. remove them from the water with clean tongs and trying to only touch the outside of the jars but not the rim of the jar or inside. shake out most of the water, and while the jar is still warm, throw in your freshly made canning medium in my cause marmalade. wipe the edge of the jar clean with a fresh clean rag and put the top and screw the lid on. now take your pot of water, and throw in a grate of some sort on the bottom, and put the cans on top of that and bring it all to a boil for 15 minutes.
Can anyone with canning experience let me know if that will work for what I want to do?
>>958530 A plan is nice to have, but if you can draw and measure it's unnecessary. It's good practice to have a plan when building something more complex than you have before, and a lot of times even if you don't really need one. It's just easier to have something to reference off of.
Now here's the key. The plan you use has to be correctly laid out, otherwise it won't as you intend. If you feel you can lay it out then go for it. The plan is $17, do you think you can make a plan that's as good as the one they're selling? If no then buy it. Is a few frustrating hours of your life worth $17 saved? If no, buy it. The shed is already going to set you back a few hundred to build, is $17 more going to kill you. If no, buy it.
I personally wouldn't, but I have a background in carpentry. I've been doing it for years. If it was my first time I wouldn't trust myself to draw it out. Nothing worse than wasting $400 on something unusable.
One thing about that shed, if you're putting it on the earth and not cement. The 2 bottom rails, make sure you use pressure treated wood suitable for ground contact. I would even go as far as to put a plastic sheet underneath them.You'll have to flatten and level the earth, so the shed sits flat against the ground. This will help prevent unwanted stresses on the structure. And look through the wood pile to find the truest boards of the bunch.
Op here, thanks for the advice, I'm probably going to buy the plans, was just cautious in case there was some horror stories about them being terrible. I've built timber frames and shutters before but never a complete structure so I'd rather just take some of the headache out of it. Plus it'll make it easier to calculate costs.
I'm definitely going to lay a concrete slab. I was a ground worker for 8 years so the slab will be the only thing I'll be able to do without breaking a mental sweat.
>>958505 Option 1. Put a rubber band over the screw driver head and try to turn it
Option 2. If that doesn't work melt the clip on a Bic pen lid with a lighter and jam it onto the screw head before it solidifies. Use the pen lid to turn the screw.
Option 3. Take a flathead screwdriver slightly larger than correct driver but still small enough to fit in the screw head. Place it on the screw head and tap the screwdriver with a hammer until it makes an indent which you can use to turn the screw.
Option... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Has anyone here ever done one of those fogger setups in their car? Where a ultrasonic fogger is added to a jar or container full of gasoline and all that stuff? Im interested in doing this and experimenting with it.
Would anyone know if this fogger pictured would be safe to use in a gas/alcohol mixture?
>>958188 >this is what i use now, works fine most of the time. does not have to be quick-change type as this work is done in a drill press. My advice would be to just keep on using what you are using, but use a Dremel to grind little divots in the drill bit for the countersink set screws. Then locktite the set screws in place with the unbreakable locktite, so they stay there forever.
Another way would be to braze the countersinks in place on the drill bits.
This will ruin the drill... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
So yesterday I decided to change the oil in my air compressor. I've done this three times before, and I remember the last time I've done so the oil came out mostly clean. This time it came out so thick with metal particles I could almost see my reflection in the waste oil. I'm talking particles large enough you could feel them if you were to rub your fingers together. I don't know what caused this. All I can think of is when I sprayed wd40 in the air intake once with the idea of lubricating the inside of the tank to prevent rust. Can't... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>958064 You just answered yourself. WD-40 is not a lubricant. It's a water displacing (WD - get it?) penetrant. It's effective at doing the opposite of what you wanted to do - thinning and removing lubricants. When you sprayed it into the air intake you probably fucked up the oil film on the cylinder and piston, leading to metal on metal friction.
So lads I found this nice little store that sells a load of different rough and tumbled stones. I chose this small piece of Amazonite the shape of a wedge and I want to learn more about it. I have lots of information online but they all pertain to hobbyists with the wide array of specialized tools and full of jargon. I can't seem to find anything that a mindless oaf can work with and start from scratch.
I got this piece I want to grind and shape down to a spike or so and a rotary tools with a vast amount of bits. Cutoff discs and steel saw discs, grinding wheels,... Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>>958013 Depends.. Got any hand tools? Handheld circular saw? I know exactly what to do to get it cut with a circular saw.. Its a bit dodgy but it works. And the grey colored bits work for grinding on rocks from your rotary tool kit. Not the orange ones. They more so polish then they do grind tho.
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