Ever since I went to a convention recently, I've been wanting to start a small business based around 3D printing props, accessories, etc. for cosplays. Do you think there's a demand for this? Things like pins, decals, maybe masks or weapons if I ever get around to it. Would you personally be interested in 3D printed cosplay gear?
I work with 3D printers (Engineering, I help designing and programming them).
We also print custom parts, and they are usually small pieces and really expensive, as 3D printing takes a lot of time. We can charge like 20€ for a 5*10cm part, I'm also in an europoor country, so I guess that in America this would be a lot more, and it takes about 10h to be printed, depending on the detail level.
I don't really think that someone would prefeer something like this (time/cost/quality wise) over other methods
>>9077093
That why I was intending to do pins and decals; add detail to a cosplay without being overly large or expensive. Things like a brooch, hairpin, chest decals, etc.
I have a printer of my own so I know the time it takes. The booth I saw also did "finishing" of parts, in the sense that they sanded/painted them lightly to prepare the for additional work on the customer's side.
Another thing with 3D printing is that I would assume that people would sometimes prefer it due to the custom aspect of it - i.e., "that specific part available online is too big/too small/too ugly, could you make X for me" or "I want this but with Y change to it". I might be wrong, though.
I already do for some cosplay props I've made in the past. Though I simply printed them in the colours I wanted, I didn't cast/sand them or such.
I'd like to learn how to though.
>>9077048
Most cost effective to print, prime, and sand the prop, then cast them
>>9077048
I was thinking the same, until I started printing several - testing making pins buttons, a few character figures that this shit takes forever (good half of a day). not mentioning the extra work to smooth/clean/file sand/paint.
I want to also use that awesome flexible filament, but shit thats an extra for a special printhead 300-400 ish + the spool which is dbl the regular filaments.
Anyway, I'm back to designing prints after bursting my braincells earlier this year - will tackle 3D-prop making later eventually, though I realize better to plan how/when to just use 3D-PRINTING where it is necessary detail wise or as a fixture/rotating/attachment to add-on support to a cosplay imho.
>>9077131
>printed them in the colours I wanted
Multiple-head extruder or just frequent manual colour changes?
>>9077484
I suppose. I'd get into this if there was a high demand for a lot of the same prop, but then there's the issue of copyright and the companies taking an issue with you selling "their" product.
>>9077576
>pins buttons
Mine print pretty fast, no more than ~15-25min per 4-8cm pins
>character figures
At what scale? A 4cm bust only took me max a couple of hours, and that was at a low layer height.
>extra work to smooth/clean/file/sand/paint
ABS + acetone vapour I've heard works well.
>$3-400 for printhead
That's... odd. E3D V6 complete kits cost $60. Or are you looking at things like the Chimera?
>>9077719
>Mine print pretty fast, no more than ~15-25min per 4-8cm pins
Buttons not so bad..since I print a few dozen at a time. If multiple parts - colors - reassemble etc. (I go into production mode - printing more because of slight shifts that could occur on a couple at a time since I have to snug-fit the added button parts) if I print one its a few minutes at that, after testing a few - I then print more to maximize print area after.
>>9077719
>At what scale? A 4cm bust only took me max a couple of hours, and that was at a low layer height.
5.5inches height x apx. 3 inches width x 2-3inches at its thickest - I did a character laying flat as a test with added structural support which increases time (still testing whether to print in sections later - ran the job as a full model, which was a bitch to remove the supports, did not use dual filament types to melt the supports yet,
>>9077719
>>$3-400 for printhead
>That's... odd. E3D V6 complete kits cost $60. Or are you looking at things like the Chimera?
I use the lulzbot, on hold was a taz5 which is about 500, dual head flexy. mini is 300ish (flexy...idk thats on hold till it drops)
>>9077719
>Multiple-head extruder or just frequent manual colour changes?
color changes, I test them first, fixing the cad files before off to the races..so far 3-4 is the max parts I've done, was planning on ordering the taz5 if I plan to do this more.
>>9077719
>ABS + acetone vapour I've heard works well.
I use that technique, but until youve messed around it's still a bit tricky, filing off bad really rough sections or bulges as to not increase time which melts any finer details/sections otherwise it just smoothes away.
In the end it is fun to do technically and finding out how it works since its all d-i-y.. just on hold till next year as Im collaborating with another artist on some ideas.
I actually just shipped out a set of 3d printed accessories. I'm a total beginner at using CAD software to my models weren't perfect and there was some waste. I didn't fill and sand them perfectly so they don't really look as good as I had hoped. I don't mind doing it for myself, but I'm realizing I don't like commissions in general.
>>9077719
>That's... odd. E3D V6 complete kits cost $60. Or are you looking at things like the Chimera?
lol ok I read that resin printer, no no no no steering clear from resin printers, I already use one at work, abs, hips, etc is more my intended usage, plus I rather pay extra for a product that won't breakdown after a couple uses, already gotten over a hundred continous hours of printing and a boatload of parts and the only problem were the occasional clogged head and a calibration run once shifts get noticeable.
>>9078159
The parts look decent, straightforward cad will look pro once it's finished/painted of course -
smart to sell it as raw though, less work to worry about and it's no longer your problem. I'd only worry about fitting issues, if too small to go on wrist/ too big it falls off wrists - yeah idk another can of worms to deal with is redoing them.
>>9078181
It was adjusted to their measurements before printing! I think I'll dabble more in finishing and practice more CAD when I get back to school. Currently using Rhino but I doubt it's the best
>>9077719
Multi-head, but I've only ever done that for one prop. I did single-colour printing for pic.
Like I said, I need to learn finishing and such.
>>9078143
Noted, thanks for the info. Have you considered HIPS (or similar) with a dual extruder? Could be easier.
>>9078158
I've yet to make a vapour bath; so far I've just used a paintbrush to apply almost-raw acetone (enough dissolved ABS to where it doesn't just melt parts), but I really want to try the vapour method.
>>9078159
Looks pretty nice. How much are you charging, and based on what (e.g. time, modelling, printing, plastic used)? I'd appreciate a breakdown if you could provide one to know what costs to include. Also, how did you do the chain and overhang on... whatever that grille is? Supports or bridging?
>>9078375
Looks cool. For some reason I'm tempted to say that's PLA based on how it looks (very slightly translucent) but I have no idea. I've been wanting to buy a dual- (or quad-, who knows?) extruder when I get the money; mostly for the support material so I can print as one block and not have to worry about fitting together parts. Slic3r seems to overcompensate support where it's not needed and the bottom supported surfaces turn out fairly bad - at least from what I've experienced.
>>9078375
You rigged that to shoot right? How messy is it, I'm wondering?
>>9078375
ey splatoon fag how does it feel knowing the game is over
last splatfest at the end of this month homie
>>9079822
>>9079870
Yeah, it's PLA. It's slightly translucent since the inside is hollow to fit the motor. (webm of it in action, it has decent range)
>>9079892
Feels bad man, at least Callie is gonna win the splatfest
>>9079987
That's really cute despite
>piss stream
Also fuck yeah Calliebro!
>>9079892
This is a bit OT but I'm personally disappointed in Nintendo. They're trying to let the Wii U down gently which shouldn't be happening so early in the first place, but everyone sees through their bullshit. As long as they don't cut the actual server support for Splatoon and other Wii U functions anytime soon, it's still okay but the lack of support coming from the company itself is very disheartening to current players and anyone who was thinking about picking up the game. This news should've come after the NX release, at least continuing the Splatfest events for another year. It gets them a lot of free advertisement and hype for Splatoon whenever one happens.
I'm a professional modeler and have been printing for a couple years. I just helped some friends out with their props (keyblade, armor bits) and I'm gonna start selling them soon.
My belief is that you gotta find the right products (in demand), give them a good design optimized for printing, and figure out how to make it affordable for you and the consumer. I watch a lot of The Profit and that methodology is all I think about now. Even down to calculating the amount of filament x time for each print.
>>9079892
feels like I got jewed out of playing one of my favorite games. they keep my sales money and take the game away
engineering here
>demand for 3D printed shit
Yes and no.
3D printed objects are largely for hard-to-find custom components for use in larger assemblies, given that the component does not undergo strain (especially shear strain along the grain)
I don't know how familiar you are with 3D printing, but you should know that most of the effort goes into -design-.
Questions you have to ask yourself are "This thing is fuckin' big. How should I cut it apart in order to minimize warping while still being reasonable to assemble?"
"It warped anyway. How the hell do I fix it?"
"The finish looks like shit. Of course it looks like shit--it's layered plastic. How do I fix the finish?"
"Holy shit this is taking forever, do I really need this much plastic? How much thinner can I get away with?"
Not my stuff, but link related:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8829589@N06/sets/72157629824474558/with/7907761230/
Tiny plastic trinkets are great and all, but it's all about finish.
>>9087705
OP here, also engineering
>does not undergo strain
Is what I'm aiming for
>how familiar
Very. I do enjoy the design.
>questions I have to ask myself
Yep, the third one I ask myself most often.
>all about finish
The issue is how much time can I afford to spend and include in the cost. The video you linked me to: Either it's a hobby, or the person who made that can charge AT LEAST $200 (and likely much more) due to the finish and time invested. If I were to spend much time on finishing pins and small objects, I'd quickly lose any profit I could make and probably go into the negative - it's more cost-effective to just say it's raw and unfinished and let the customer do what they want with it and sell it at a lower price.
>>9087592
What do you use for finishing on printed objects?
Do any of you ship internationally regularly, by chance? I'm currently looking at cost to ship and it's looking like up to $10 in the US, and >$75 literally anywhere else in the world. Am I just looking in the wrong places?
>>9088734
I do a rough layer of bondo spot putty and sand it down with 220 grit to fill in any sizable gaps. A palm sander makes the job really easy. Then a layer of rustoleum filler-primer and sand it with 400 grit by hand. The paint covers most flaws finer than that.
>>9088734
If its a smaller piece or has fine detail, i go straight for a light coat of rustoleum and 400 grit. Dont want to fill the details. Then finish with a layer of tamiya surface primer.
