discuss all things related to garment construction including patterns, draping, and construction details (darts, specific seams, etc.)
>>8855266
Drapping info
>>8855266
I don't know exactly how relevant it is, but how do people feel about costumes where it's mostly altered existing garments? I'm really not confident in sewing anything more difficult than a straight line, so a lot of my cosplays end up being modified basic pieces. I think the hardest thing I've sewn together was a long trenchcoat, and I had help on that. I know a lot of basics, but it shows I know just that.
>mfw trying to wrestle with a raincoat I'm sewing sleeves onto without something to hold it up/hold shit I don't want to sew out of the way
Do you guys use special rulers like pic related for pattern making?
I'm still a noob and was considering getting some since I don't have a good eye for symmetry.
I'm really trying to branch out in my fabric choices for my costumes, so tell me /cgl/'s opinion on this: Would a suiting fabric be good for Jude's coat (the dark purple part)? I want it to be drapey but not super lightweight.
>>8855377
Nothing wrong with it. It's a great way to get into sewing.
Though people probably won't be too pleased if you tried to compete with an altered cosplay and won.
>>8855465
I'm not sure exactly what it's called, but there's a type of polyester fabric that is similar to the cotton used for making bed sheets, and I'm pretty sure it's the kind used to make lolita dresses (I don't wear lolita so correct me if I'm wrong). It doesn't stretch and comes in different weights. A lighter or medium weight of this fabric would be good for what you're making. Idk if you're American or not, but if you are I think Joann and Hancock would sell it (personally I got mine at a locally owned store).
It's a very nice fabric and comes in many colors. I used it to make my TP Link cosplay, and the drape was perfect.
>>8855486
That is helpful, but without knowing the name of the fabric I dont really know where to go from here. Googling what lolita dresses are made with just brings up cotton as a result, so i'm not sure if that's what you're referring to.
>>8855454
>L square
Yes, perfect 90 degree corners are super important in patter drafting
The other tools are useful for nice, blended curves but not totally necessary
>>8855524
>>8855491
Yeah sorry I'm not much help. I took a close up of two weights I have of this type of fabric so you can see the texture. The green is kinda lightweight yet durable and feels smooth like bed sheets, and the blue is more heavy weight with a slightly rough texture.
I dunno, maybe it is cotton. They both had a slight sheen to them before I prewashed.
>>8855612
Dropped pic, sorry!
>>8855612
That's a twill weave.
Suiting anon, a good thick poly blend gabardine might work too. Just don't buy the cheap shit.
>>8855454
I have an L square, a hip curve, a set of French curves, and one of those clear rulers.
Out of the set, I've used the ruler the most. It's super helpful for putting in seam allowance or lines that extend from other lines. It definitely gives you more control than metal/wood rulers since you can see exactly what you're doing.
I draft on dot paper so I don't always need a L square to draw a perfect 90 degree angle but imo you should definitely get one just in case.
French curves and hip curves help smooth out any curves you may want to put into your pattern. I'm not good at drawing smooth lines (mine always come out slightly more curves on one end) so they come in handy if you aren't sure you can draw curves by hand.
>>8855474
Nah, I understand that perfectly. If I ever compete it'll be all homemade stuff.
>>8855616
Those are both twill weave.
I'm making Asuka's sundress and im having trouble choosing a fabric. I want to make it out of something soft and flowy. I was thinking cotton lawn at first but now I think it might be too lightweight. does anyone have any recommendations?
>>8855529
If you're cutting on the bias they certainly are
Does anyone have any suggestions for affixing these belts without them being super baggy? I tried using a light pleather fused on, but it made the jacket drape in a really unfortunate way.
>>8855454
I use mine a lot for modifying and drafting. I'd say at least one of the basic ones you can get at average fabric stores is worth it.
>>8855618
Thanks to all the anons that helped me out! I went to joanns today and looked around for some good fabrics and they definitely have some good options. I'm not going to buy anything until I figure all the fabric out, but I'm more sure now.
>>8855276
Thanks for this, this is super helpful.
>>8855985
Would it benefit from some light boning to maintain the structure?
>>8855985
Add more structure to the jacket itself, it looks like the torso should be fitted and not have any drape to begin with. Have you considered adding an interlining to the torso? I think the easiest way would be to sew some Rigilene into the side seam, then topstitch the belts to the Rigilene and apply the buckles to hide it.
>>8855985
I'd stitch the long belt ends to the jacket and top stitch the shorter ends to match. If the jacket front has a small amount of stretch it can be cut with zero ease through the chest and waist so you shouldn't get sag.
I'm making this zip up turtleneck and the turtleneck part is way too tight. I don't know how to go about altering it. Would I have to open it up at the shoulder?
>>8857208
The neck hole or the turtle collar part?
>>8857327
The collar. It isn't separately attached to the neckline, it's all one piece.
>>8855276
This is genus.
>>8855454
Clear grid ruler is great. I have one 2"x18" one and a 6"x26" at work. Both are incredibly helpful
>mfw trying to cut a circle out with regular fabric shears
i am spoiled by so many different size circle cutters for paper. i just want even, uniform circle shapes.
where do you guys get your dress forms? i'm in the market for one but the only ones I can find are the adjustable ones from joann's.
Tailor's ham and sleeve roll are amazing investments for cheap. I don't know how I ironed seams before these (hint: wrinkled, poorly).
Also getting the right pins for the job. There are extra-fine sharp pins for lightweight and silks that greatly reduce snagging on fibers.
>>8863468
PGM or Roxy dress form are cheaper options. Wolf are professional grade and pretty expensive. There's also fabulous fit and UniquelyYou for customizable forms.